2cm Flak 38 auf Pz.Kpfw.I Ausf.A 1:35 Dragon 6220

[SteveH]

Morning

I shall build the above with the Voyager PE set 35203, specifically for the Dragon kit.

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I have also ordered a replacement RB barrel, both in L50 and L65 as I'm not sure which is appropriate and at only 3 euro each from Poland, why not.

The kit has been well reviewed by PMMS, which is a real positive.

PMMS kit review

The Dragon instructions start in a odd way, not with the traditional tub and running gear assembly but with these?

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The item on the left of Stage 1, is it a stacking devise for the 2 cm shell magazines?

I don't thing I will be making the PE magazines either, and the spare barrel case?

There is one further on in the plans, stage 10, which is attached to the rear deck, does it need 2?

Next step is the more comfortable tub and running gear, super!

More soon?

Steve H

[Jim R]

Hi Steve
I've not seen this built before so it will be interesting. The extras will be worth the time and effort in terms of added detail. I do hope the Dragon instructions are better than they often are.
Jim

[adt70hk]

Hi Steve

Interesting little build you have planned there. Good luck with it.

Andrew

[Guest]

Hello Steve,
Get the extra stong glasses on, these Voyager sets are fun to work with. Will follow with interest.
Cheers, Mike.

[Guest]

I have also ordered a replacement RB barrel, both in L50 and L65 as I'm not sure which is appropriate

AFAIK, the long barrel should be the correct one for the dedicated anti-aircraft gun. The shorter one was used when the gun was mounted in light tanks, armoured cars etc.

[BattleshipBob]

Interesting build Steve, did you get cramp after typing that heading lol

[Guest]

Looks like a handful Steve! Good to see you back at the bench.

[SteveH]

Thanks Jim, the instructions aren't too challenging, YET!

Thanks Andrew,

Thanks Mike, I have a x 4 optivisor, getting old!

Thanks Jakko, I wasn't sure but I have some 2 cm armed tanks, Pz II's, which I can use the L50 on.

Hi Bob, I did it deliberately as I could not find a build blog on the interweb anywhere, its quite a "mouthful" isn't it.

Thanks Peter, I have even snuck up the loft ladder to get my PE nuts and bolts, Anna is at church or she would have killed me.

Taking down the decorations tomorrow has lost some of its fear factor LOL


Today's efforts, by the way have I said,

I love Pz I's and need to keep building them whilst I still can!

A little progress with stage 2 of the instructions, which is back to the traditional tank route, tub and wheels.

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Sprue attachment points on the drive wheels are a b#tch,

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I shall attempt to assemble the tracks and fix them to the running gear which will then be removable as a single piece.

This will allow painting and weathering to be much easier and will be less fiddly than having the tracks, wheels and attachment arms all as separate pieces.

That will be a challenge after removing the track links, which have 5 attachment points on each link! Grrrr!!!

Shame they weren't magic tracks!

More soon?

Its the interior next, lovely

Steve H

[SteveH]

A little progress

Steps 3 and 4

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The extra thin glue splashes do disappear under paint.

You really wont see much of the interior but I shall make an attempt to paint and weather it up once its completed

The detail is basic but as you cant see it no point over doing the super detailing!

I do have 2 full PE and resin interior sets, for other projects.

More soon?

Steve H

[Guest]

Good stuff Steve. All of that work on something that won't be seen - you armour modellers!

[Guest]

It’s not just us, aircraft modellers are little better — putting expensive detail sets into cockpits that will then only be viewable through an opening of about a square centimetre covered by a curved canopy …

But yeah, I tend to only build what will actually be visible (or at least, what looks like it will be visible, which is not necessarily the same) rather than going to town on all kinds of details that will be completely hidden. OTOH, I also know people who’ve done things like put a complete engine into a model and then glue the engine deck shut. One of them, when I asked why, replied that he didn’t yet know if he wanted to have it open or closed yet when he was building the kit so he just put it in and then decided to close it. Um, okay … if it works for you, I guess. I’d rather save the effort and have an engine in my spares box

[Dave Ward]

Steve,
I made this many moons ago, as far as I remember, the tiny tracks were a pain, but ended up looking good. I decided that I'd have a go at the TriStar version ( now available in a HobbyBoss box ) This has a larger ammo box on the trailer, and even trickier track links, in that they are not only tiny, but they are handed, left & right!
That optivisor will be really needed!
Dave

[SteveH]

Evening
Yes Peter it is the way of both armour and aircraft modellers!
I will be using my detail sets on a stalled project with an A & B Schulfahzeuge training tractor.
My micro soldering wasn't up to it back in 2014!
I am the same Jakko, but there will be a little bit of the interior visible and I shall leave off the inspection plate on the front plate.
This was quite common to try and prevent overheating of the braking system.
I'm on with the tracks at the moment Dave.
I am so glad I got some seriously sharp and accurate Tamiya fine pointed snippers.
They cost the same as a set of Fruil and will let me prepare some of the more difficult tracks like these, so they have covered their cost already.
Progress up to step 6


Tracks now, so it will be quiet for a few days
Perhaps a little work on the Stug when the tracks get too much
More soon?
Steve H

[Steve Jones]

Nice to see something different Steve. You have a lot to keep you busy. Will watch on with anticipation

[SteveH]

Hi Steve

Definitely different

One side of the tracks done with all wheel attached


On with the other side
Might do some work on Stug and a change of pace.
More soon?.
Steve H