Zvezda 1/35 T-35

[JR]

Don't be hard on yourself Andy, I think its damned good. Its too easy to be over critical and loose heart.
Yes I was surprised how thin the coats of paint Steve applied, but you do need depth to cover some time.This is why I probably gave up with hair spray and opted for the chipping fluid. Keep going mate its not arf bad .:smiling:

Remember not much Russian armour managed to live very long at the start of war, and the majority of these tanks were knocked out.

[scottie3158]

Andy,
I agree with John completely.

[Guest]

Thanks guys, and sorry, I should have been more clear. I'm happy with how it turned out, it was just getting there that was a struggle!

But I think you've nailed it there John. The areas where I could get away with minimal paint chipped ok, but where there was no choice but to put a bit more on it was like trying to break through concrete. The fan cover for instance resisted even my stiffest brushes stabbing at it, I even got the toothbrush out and got nowhere, then all of a sudden the water must have gotten through and a huge chunk came off when I dabbed it with paper towel :smiling5:

I do have a couple of chipping fluids. I think the Vallejo one has gone off as it sprays like treacle, and the MIG one is unopened yet. Maybe I'd have more luck with that.

[Dave Ward]

Andy,
have you tried the liquid mask method of chipping? The video is by Vallejo, but I don't see why any other brand of masking fluid shouldn't work

Dave

[Jim R]

Hi Andy
That looks good. Learning is all part of the fun. Your chips look to be in the right place and in scale. I find that chipping fluid works best if you work damp not wet and work a small area at a time.
The only point I would make is that the chips need to be on the edge as well as near the edge. The edge would get most damage. That is also where the deepest chips would most likely be and where scratches would start. The front edge of the front plate would be where the tank would impact branches, rocks etc. I would add to the front end damage.

I'm not criticising, just trying to give you something to consider.
Jim

[Tim Marlow]

Hi Andy
looking good this one. Nice restrained chipping and good variety in the 4BO. The model is coming along well and will be very impressive when finished.
Your pictures are overexposed because you are using a dark grey background. The camera tried to make this a mid grey so overexposed the images and blew out the highlights. Try a lighter background, but don’t go for white or you’ll end up with underexposed images for the same reason. Other tips are use something to hold the camera steady, switch off the flash (which can also blow the highlights if you’re too close) and unless you have a remote release, use the self timer. Should bring them closer to what you’re looking for....

[Guest]

Andy,
have you tried the liquid mask method of chipping? The video is by Vallejo, but I don't see why any other brand of masking fluid shouldn't work

I've seen that video thanks Dave, if it's the rusty Beetle one as it appears, but not tried that method yet. I've even seen people using Marmite for chipping! :flushed:

The only point I would make is that the chips need to be on the edge as well as near the edge.

Thanks Jim, and I totally agree. That's what I was trying to achieve but the more I tried to chip the paint at the edges, the more "inboard" the chips spread. At least if I go back to painting them on I can put them (more or less) where I want, rather than hoping they appear in the right spot.

Hi Andy
looking good this one. Nice restrained chipping and good variety in the 4BO. The model is coming along well and will be very impressive when finished.
Your pictures are overexposed because you are using a dark grey background. The camera tried to make this a mid grey so overexposed the images and blew out the highlights. Try a lighter background, but don’t go for white or you’ll end up with underexposed images for the same reason. Other tips are use something to hold the camera steady, switch off the flash (which can also blow the highlights if you’re too close) and unless you have a remote release, use the self timer. Should bring them closer to what you’re looking for....

Thanks Tim. I'm using a phone as getting pictures to my PC then onto Instagram is a real pain from my ageing camera. I do have a phone adapter for my tripod so might try that, and I always have the flash off so that's one thing I must be doing right. I have just tried a few pictures back on my old grey tiles and they did indeed seem to come out better exposed, so thanks again, that's something to work on.

Here's how she stands at the minute, with all the basic colours on the tools & equipment. A few touch ups are needed here and there but it's basically ready for weathering and oil work. I'll try and see this one to a finish rather than leaving on the shelf of doom with all my other part-weathered projects :rolling:

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[Tim Marlow]

Looks good now, the top picture really pops off the background.....

[scottie3158]

Andy that looks very good. Is that a star on the turret that is still masked or a moulding?

[Guest]

Thanks Tim, looks like I need to hunt around for an offcut of grey fabric.

Paul, it's a moulded in star that I've highlighted with the airbrush.

[Tim Marlow]

To be honest Andy, any colour will do as long as it’s a mid tone. A desaturated mid red would make this build really pop....for example...

[Guest]

You know Tim, I'm sure we've had this conversation before. I remember you pointing out how the red makes the figure in your avatar pop. I clearly wasn't paying enough attention last time or just didn't learn my lesson :smiling5:

[Tim Marlow]

Possibly, don’t let it get to you, I’d forgotten it as well....at least my advice was consistent

[BigGreg]

WOW what a beast those russian tanks were HUUGE .... your work is neat and stunning..

[Guest]

Thanks Greg, time to mess her up a bit with some weathering.