Scotties meat chopper.

[Wookie2486]

Good start there scottie the engine looks brilliant.

Marty

[JR]

If you hadn't mentioned the scratched piece Paul we'd have been none the wiser if it had been painted .
Engine suitably weathered as well .

[outrunner]

Thanks Andy, I built that a while ago and have some pictures of the engine I built if they are of any use. I also have some pictures of the actual vehicle.

That would be great Paul, PM sent.

Andy.

[scottie3158]

Good start there scottie the engine looks brilliant.

Marty

Thanks Marty.

If you hadn't mentioned the scratched piece Paul we'd have been none the wiser if it had been painted .
Engine suitably weathered as well .

Thanks John, managed to find the original piece today so that has been fitted.

That would be great Paul, PM sent.

Andy.

PM Sent mate.

[scottie3158]

This is fighting me all the way. lots of small pieces and mould lines. They have tried to make it very accurate but this means in a lot of places the glue points are tiny making for very weak locations. This means I am not following the instructions and building in a sequence that makes it easier. For example the sump guard and engine mounts are part of the engine assembly stage. This made fitting the engine very difficult so I have removed the sump guard and fixed it to the chassis when this is dry I will drop the engine in place.

The rear running gear is very weak and i can imagine problems when it comes to fitting the track band.



cheers Scottie

[scottie3158]

This question has been asked before but I have used the Olive Drab that is called for in the instructions, but it always seems to dark to me. When I see other peoples US builds they always seem "Greener and lighter" just wondering what you guys use.

Scottie

[Guest]

They have tried to make it very accurate but this means in a lot of places the glue points are tiny making for very weak locations.

That certainly sounds like AFV Club alright

This question has been asked before but I have used the Olive Drab that is called for in the instructions, but it always seems to dark to me. When I see other peoples US builds they always seem "Greener and lighter" just wondering what you guys use.

I’ve said it before, but American OD was more of a greenish-brownish colour than actual green, and was darker than people usually think it is. Part of the problem with its darkness is that in the late 1960s, OD suddenly became lighter in shade than before due to an error in the specifications, which many modellers aren’t aware of.

Gunze-Sangyo H52 OD is apparently a good colour to use straight from the bottle, according to a test by Steve Zaloga in an old issue of Military Modelling. Other good choices are AK RC023, Hataka 065, Mr. Paint 138 or equal parts Tamiya XF-51 and XF-62.

[scottie3158]

That certainly sounds like AFV Club alright :smiling3:


I’ve said it before, but American OD was more of a greenish-brownish colour than actual green, and was darker than people usually think it is. Part of the problem with its darkness is that in the late 1960s, OD suddenly became lighter in shade than before due to an error in the specifications, which many modellers aren’t aware of.

Gunze-Sangyo H52 OD is apparently a good colour to use straight from the bottle, according to a test by Steve Zaloga in an old issue of Military Modelling. Other good choices are AK RC023, Hataka 065, Mr. Paint 138 or equal parts Tamiya XF-51 and XF-62.

Thanks Jakko, I knew it was a dark greeny brown as mine is. Just finished builds I see always seem greener and lighter. It must be poetic licence lol.

[Jim R]

Hi Scottie
Great looking engine and as John says the scatched part is excellent. The running gear is very nicely detailed but does look a bit fragile - any way it could be strengthened "invisibly"
On the darkness of the colour. I know some people reckon that there is 'scale colour' which says that the small scale we work with requires the base colour to be lighter than on the real thing. Some say that's rubbish. Try Googling scale colour on models - interesting :tongue-out3:
Jim

[scottie3158]

Cheers Jim,
I was thinking about strengthening it. I will see how it stands up first. Your right about the colours Normally i wouldn't bother as there would have been so many shades and hues due to so many factors. I will look up the scale colour thing.

[Mini Me]

It ain't rubbish Jim......if I use out of the bottle Panzer Grey on a 1/87 scale vehicle it looks Black when dry. Monogram did a scale color ref. book years ago on how the colors should be lightened in scale to represent a given distance from which the subject is viewed.
I have used this ref. as a guide for nearly 30 years.........very satisfied with the results. Rick H.

[minitnkr]

Rick, could you expand on that? I've found it to be true in our scale, don't know about larger. PaulE

[Guest]

Just finished builds I see always seem greener and lighter. It must be poetic licence lol.

Photos are very misleading. I painted my M4A3 HVSS with Tamiya OD and added a black wash over it, which made it much darker than I would like. However, in the photos I took of it, it looks about as dark as before I added the wash, both on the iPad I took them with and on my Mac — both of which have their screen brightness set pretty low, by the way.

Couple this with a lot of modellers thinking OD is “army green” and/or lightening their paint for scale effect, and you get models looking far too light in photos, even when they’re a colour that, in the flesh, probably looks quite like real OD.

[Mini Me]

Here is a page I saved for reference...........If Scottie does not mind.

[Mr Bowcat]

Nice start Paul.