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Let’s get this Sherman M4A2 out of it’s box

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  • AFC
    • Feb 2011
    • 128

    #1

    Let’s get this Sherman M4A2 out of it’s box

    Long ago I got this one and life got into the way. So I promised that I’d try my best one day. And that day is now. (Slow build so bare with me).

    Feedback is welcome.

    It is an Academy M4A2 Sherman (1/35). The goal is to have fun while building a nearly as possible version of the mid production

    This website is helping me a bit





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    Started by assembling the wheels
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    and move on to some of the details

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    And then an experience I’m making which lets see how it goes. White Tamiya thinned putty to give it some texture. Might have overdone slightly but we shall see...

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    next step, is to add more details to the hull before it gets all primed...
  • adt70hk
    SMF Supporters
    • Sep 2019
    • 10400

    #2
    Cool start!

    Andrew

    Comment

    • GerryW
      • Feb 2021
      • 1757

      #3
      Interesting, will watch with interest

      Comment

      • minitnkr
        Charter Rabble member
        • Apr 2018
        • 7517
        • Paul
        • Dayton, OH USA

        #4
        Is this the diesel version?

        Comment

        • Guest

          #5
          It is. The M4A2 had twin diesel engines driving a common propeller shaft.

          Comment

          • AFC
            • Feb 2011
            • 128

            #6
            I said this was going to be a slow one it is progressing though...

            After some details have been added, it was time to prime it. This time I’ve used Tamiya Fine Surface Primer.

            This is the inside of my “paint station”...a big cardbox converted I‘m in a garage, super well ventilated and wearing a mask, so it’s all good.

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            I let the primer to settle and for the next days I went to do some research... The next step was the one I was more nervous about... airbrushing!!!

            I’ve airbrushed the model with Tamiya Olive Drab.

            Actually I thought it was going to be way too dark and so, the plan was to first paint it with olive drab out of the box and then apply a second coat of olive drab & dark yellow mix. However, I‘m quite pleased with the olive drab tone, so I might leave it as is.

            My first airbrush attempt (the first two pics are more yellow-ish than what it is in reality, the desk lamp was too close).

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            I’m quite happy with the effect I got on the turret side where I applied thinned tamiya white putty...

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            I didn’t care much about the wheels as I’m planning to put some mud on them anyway....

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            I ended up painting the tools also in olive drab but the plan is to apply some sort of wooden tone on the handles and metal tones on the metal parts...

            Also, I didn’t cement the tools (hammers, shovels, etc) on purpose. I wanted to left them for after painting the model. However, in hindsight, I shouldn’t have done. Next time I’ll assemble the whole thing before any airbrushing...

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            The next step will be to give another olive drab coat (please leave comments if you think it should be olive drab & dark yellow mix) and paint the remain parts (wheels, tools, etc). Then comes the decals, mud, and I want to also try some weathering. Lastly will apply the varnish.

            And then some more research for something which I’ll be also doing for the first time...washing using some artist oils....

            Comment

            • Guest

              #7
              You can leave the tools as they are: these were often dip-painted with the same olive drab that went on the vehicles themselves. I tend to paint them like that, with chipped paint where paint would wear off because of using them, like the handles, the pointed ends, etc.

              Also: does the commander’s hatch have a working hinge on this model? It seems to be more upright in the first picture than in the others. If it’s glued, then you may want to remove it and open it all the way, as it wouldn’t stay up the way your photos show it now

              Comment

              • GerryW
                • Feb 2021
                • 1757

                #8
                Originally posted by Jakko
                Also: does the commander’s hatch have a working hinge on this model? It seems to be more upright in the first picture than in the others. If it’s glued, then you may want to remove it and open it all the way, as it wouldn’t stay up the way your photos show it now :smiling3:
                Unless, there's an arm opening it

                Comment

                • JR
                  • May 2015
                  • 18273

                  #9
                  Very nice build and photos Andre.

                  Comment

                  • AFC
                    • Feb 2011
                    • 128

                    #10
                    Originally posted by Jakko
                    You can leave the tools as they are: these were often dip-painted with the same olive drab that went on the vehicles themselves. I tend to paint them like that, with chipped paint where paint would wear off because of using them, like the handles, the pointed ends, etc.
                    Thank you Jakko. I was going to post that question in the forum, so appreciate your feedback. Will leave it then.

                    Comment

                    • AFC
                      • Feb 2011
                      • 128

                      #11
                      Originally posted by GerryW
                      Unless, there's an arm opening it
                      GerryW got it right .... I’m thinking about having some figures added later so left it as shown... if I decide not to go for it, will fully open it

                      @Jakko - the hinge is glued....but you just gave me an idea... I can probably make it a “working“ one by replacing the plastic with a bit of electrical cable

                      Comment

                      • AFC
                        • Feb 2011
                        • 128

                        #12
                        So it all went wrong, and I've decided to close it see picture 1. Lesson learned: it would have been much easier to do it before cementing it.

                        Also, could someone help me with picture 2 below? Is the gap as per the "real tank" or shall they be filled in with putty?
                        Attached Files

                        Comment

                        • Guest

                          #13
                          That gap shouldn’t be there. This photo shows both sides of the vertical part of the mudguard fairly well:

                          [ATTACH]420560[/ATTACH] (Sherman Minutia website)

                          Note that you can see there’s a bit of a forward extension to it, that wasn’t always present.

                          Comment

                          • AFC
                            • Feb 2011
                            • 128

                            #14
                            Originally posted by Jakko
                            That gap shouldn’t be there. This photo shows both sides of the vertical part of the mudguard fairly well:

                            [ATTACH=CONFIG]n[/ATTACH] (Sherman Minutia website)

                            Note that you can see there’s a bit of a forward extension to it, that wasn’t always present.
                            Thanks @Jakko. Website is great!

                            Comment

                            • Guest

                              #15
                              If you’re building Sherman kits, it’s a lifesaver — and shows you what minefield you’ve gotten yourself into

                              Comment

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