Next build is the Challenger ARRV offering from Accurate Armour. For those that are not familiar, these are basically all resin kits/conversion models where you use a donor kit mainly for the lower hull/running gear. I believe the earlier models were in a grey/green resin and later went over to the light grey. Plus you get an etch brass fret for items like side skirts etc. The instructions do leave a lot to be desired, and what I did was to scan each page and then resize it to A4 size for printing which does help. I will be using a set of Fruil tracks for a Mk 1 Challenger as these fit in with the period I am modelling.
So on with the build, the main component is the hull top,
When you first get these resin kits it is a good idea to make sure they are sitting square on all four corners. It is no hardship the level the moulded hull top, just let it sit in hot water, I use hot water and with washing up liquid in it to wash the moulded part(s) as well. Once the hull is softened then stand it on a flat surface with enough weight on top to level and then allow to cool either by pouring cold water over the hull top or allow to air dry. Other items can be warmed with a hair dryer to achieve the same result.
And onto this you add the rear end,
With first a sligh sanding on the mating surfaces for a good joint. then c/a'd together. and put aside to dry. I give this joint a good dose of the c/a and then put it aside to cure.
While this is going through the hardening process I then prepare the lower hull, in this case from a Challenger 1 as the final drive is different from a Challenger 2.
As you can see the idler wheel mounts are in place plus a suspension arm on all four corners ready for when the model is on a base and all the wheels can then be made to touch where they should.
I also have a box of spare parts from the donor kit...
And a stack of Challenger 2 etch brass if I need extra.
So the next thing to do is to get on with the build.
Cheers,
Mike.
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