ICM 1/35 Bergepanther - Early Variant
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John,
Fruils push the price too high for my Yorkshire taste! I try to make do with what is in the model ( or my spares crate ).
The Trumpeter SU 152H works well from the box...........
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Individual links in this case.............
I just had a look at the Meng & Takom instructions for the Leopard 2 - both have 3 parts per link - which boosts the part count by 504, just for the tracks!
DaveComment
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It's not a bad little kit! I threw a partial interior into one. It's a shelf queen atm lol I'll dig some pictures out if you likeComment
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Eventually ended up having a real blitz on the tracks - essentially it's now just link & length
The two top runs are the same length ( 112mm! ) as the distance between the 1st & 8th roadwheel axles.
The number of links around the sprockets & idlers is by eye. The 4 same size assemblies will be the roadwheel/sprocket/idler links. These are all ready for priming ( the tracks aren't glued to the sprockets/idlers ).
This represents 3/4 of the track links, the top run, will be assembled separately, as this is where the 'sag' will be. From various pictures, it looks like the tracks ran from the idler along the top of the roadwheels to between the 3-4 ( from the front ), then rose in an arc to the drive sprocket. It's only a guess, as contemporary pictures of intact Panthers without skirts aren't common.
This is my normal method of assembling individual track links - I'm sure that others have different ways, but this is what works for me..................
DaveComment
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Guest
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Tracks finished and primed...........................
I primed with my own mix of black, dark grey, brown & gunmetal, its a good base for washes & weathering - no particular formula, just add paints until it looks right! I made a bottle of this ( about 75ml ), so I can touch up after final track assembly, and on my next tracked model ( whatever it is ).
Up to now, I've been using Revell Contacta for assembly, the metal needle gives precise drops. For final assembly, I'll be going to CA - I'll use Loctite, my favoured brand ( the nozzle seems to stay clearer longer, than others ), then when all has set firmly, I'll touch up the joints with the primer.
I have the roadwheel tyres to paint, and then the fittings to add on the backplate ( exhausts etc ) before I can add the tracks & call the chassis complete.
DaveComment
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Track colour is one of those subjects that you can argue about, without drawing any conclusions, there's no right answer, so I settle for 'looks good to me!'
DaveComment
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It's just a neutral colour, you can lighten, or darken it, as needed - the addition of gunmetal just gives it a slight sheen - one thing you have to do before spraying it, is to see what colour it dries as! My initial mix looked a little dark chocolate, luckily I'd done my patch test & was able to add black/grey & a little more gunmetal.
Track colour is one of those subjects that you can argue about, without drawing any conclusions, there's no right answer, so I settle for 'looks good to me!'
DaveComment
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