Zvezda 1/35 T-90MS

[Jim R]

Hi Dave
That looks a very nice kit. Lots of parts so that probably means fiddly. The tracks are interesting and it will be nice to see how the masks work, if you decide to use them.
Jim

[Dave Ward]

Hi Dave
That looks a very nice kit. Lots of parts so that probably means fiddly. The tracks are interesting and it will be nice to see how the masks work, if you decide to use them.
Jim

Jim,
in the past, I've tried to use the masks over the completed model - this means that there are loads of humps & bumps, all providing large areas to bleed through. I'm going to try & use the masks before the fine detail bits are added. This means a bit more work, touching up the fine details to suit the background, after positioning them. Unfortunately, tanks aren't like planes, which are generally smooth & curved - there are lots of channels and raised areas, sharp angles on a tank all of which cause masks to fail ( as the ones I've used in the past have done ). It's not a major disaster, but you end up with a soft edged camo scheme
Dave

[Dave Ward]

The chassis & roadwheels have all been primed & waiting their basecoat.
The tracks on these Zvezda models is interesting - it's link and length, but in a very precise way.
The return run ( on the top of the wheels ) is supplied as two bits - the track links & the hollow guide horns. asymmetric pins mean you can't fit them the wrong way round. The top run isn't exactly flat, but you have to hold it against a rule to confirm that..........

The drive sprockets are keyed to fit to the chassis only one way. This fixes the tooth position & starts the location of all the track links. The curved parts of the track are formed by the curved form of the guide horns & two curved portions of track - 4 sections.

The trickiest part is assembling the guide horns to the intermediate lengths ( ie roadwheel to either idler or sprocket ). Due to the torsion bar suspension, the wheels are slightly offset fore and aft, one side to the other, so these lengths are all slightly different. I chose to assemble them on the sprue, so I could tell one from another....
In spite of my careful attention - I made a mistake - two of the track lengths are #6 & #9 - the numbers are on the other side of the sprue to where the guide horns fit, and yes, I managed to fit the guide horns for #9 onto the link #6. Luckily I was using Contacta & was able to prise them off without damage. when I realised ( about 10 mins! ).
The tracks are now ready for priming & should fit exactly the chassis ( famous last words! ) - no extra links being needed ( I did this on the early T-90, so I'm confident! ).
I was looking at the Tiger Model T-90MS instructions - it does have 'working' suspension, and individual track links, consisting of separate link, guide horn & end connectors, which makes me very happy to be making the simple Zvezda model. I wonder how many modellers take advantage of the poseable suspension & track links?
Dave

[adt70hk]

Coming on nicely Dave!

[Dave Ward]

After a busy period with the airbrush, the chassis and roadwheels have their basecoat, and the tracks are primed

I used AK Gen3 Dark Sand for the chassis etc., and my own homebrew for the tracks. I want to finish the lower hull, complete with tracks before moving up.
Next up will be painting the tyres on the roadwheels - a job for no interruptions, and a steady hand. That might be Friday, as I've another long session tomorrow with my dentist, late morning - Oh Joy!!!
Dave

[Tim Marlow]

Lovely stuff Dave. That seems a very good way of handling tracks. I’m surprised other companies don’t take it on.

[Dave Ward]

Lovely stuff Dave. That seems a very good way of handling tracks. I’m surprised other companies don’t take it on.

Tim,
well, 'not invented here' syndrome, or more likely 'everybody else is doing individual links'
Dave

[outrunner]

Looking good Dave, I must admit to cheating a wee bit with mine when I did the tracks, as when the side skirts are fitted you can not see the top sections of the tracks, so I did not fit them.

Andy.

[Guest]

That’s what I normally do too, especially with separate-link tracks, where it means you a) have about a third less track to assemble, and b) if you build two models with the same aftermarket track set, you have enough links left for a third

[Dave Ward]

No bench time today - I had a dentist visit late this morning & the combination of drilling & sitting with my mouth open for 1hr+ left me with a bad headache, so dozing in a darkened bedroom was the limit of my afternoon's labours. Headache now going, but my jaw muscles are aching............
Dave

[Tim Marlow]

Feel your pain there Dave. I always find the jaw ache worse than the dentistry!

[Dave Ward]

Painted the roadwheel tyres & added to the chassis - then, adding the tracks - one side at a time, so I don't mix the parts up!

Starting at the drive sprocket, the correct curved track section was CA'd into place, making sure it's the right way round.


The next section is offered up, then drops of CA fix it in place.


After the bottom straight run is added, the curved section is added to the idler wheel ( the idler wheel can me moved around eccentrically , so the track section fits neatly ). If all is well & you have got the right parts, the final lower section is fitted.


When you come to add the final top run section it should fit neatly, providing you have been accurate in your assembly. All it needs is the outer drive sprocket adding & the paint on the tracks touching up.
I use Loctite CA, it has a long nozzle & I can just add a dot of CA where I want (& the nozzle doesn't clog as badly as some other makes ). The instant grab of CA is essential for me - I don't like sitting around, holding parts together.
I'll do the other side, add the outer sprockets & touch up the track paint, then I can put this aside, and move upwards.........
Dave

[scottie3158]

Dave,
Tracks look good, they went together well.

[adt70hk]

Coming on very nicely Dave!!!

[Tim Marlow]

Lovely track work. That track design really is an innovation that needs to be widely copied!