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The reason I was asking about the ultrasonic fluid is that I used some "Jewellery Cleaner" diluted as per instructions, to clean my Skagen black mesh watch strap, and it cleaned the blacking off! I didn't risk using the same solution on my airbrush, so just used windscreen washer fluid.
Pete
Most material safety data sheets are pretty scary though, I'm sure it's fine if you're sensible with it.
That’s my take on it, too. I take the cap off, pour a small amount into the ultrasonic cleaner, and put the cap back on before filling the rest of the cleaner’s tank with tap water. I’m not scared I will get chemical burns or anything from it, especially not with a solution as diluted as that.
Originally posted by adt70hk
Good to see you back at it and something different from the 'usual'.
You may be slightly disappointed with the next one, then, which I’ll get right on to once I’ve finished his and/or the M4A2 …
That’s my take on it, too. I take the cap off, pour a small amount into the ultrasonic cleaner, and put the cap back on before filling the rest of the cleaner’s tank with tap water. I’m not scared I will get chemical burns or anything from it, especially not with a solution as diluted as that.
:smiling3:
You may be slightly disappointed with the next one, then, which I’ll get right on to once I’ve finished his and/or the M4A2 …
There’s a safety saying for that Jakko…..”Always do what you oughter, add the acid to the water…..”.
It works for alkali as well . In effect, always add the concentrate to water, not the other way around. Some chemicals give off a lot of heat when they dissolve (an exothermic reaction) and a small amount of water can then boil, spraying chemicals around. A large amount of water dissipates the heat quickly so the boil issue doesn’t happen.
That’s my take on it, too. I take the cap off, pour a small amount into the ultrasonic cleaner, and put the cap back on before filling the rest of the cleaner’s tank with tap water. I’m not scared I will get chemical burns or anything from it, especially not with a solution as diluted as that.
:smiling3:
You may be slightly disappointed with the next one, then, which I’ll get right on to once I’ve finished his and/or the M4A2 …
I'm never bored by your builds... The amount of work you put into them always makes them interesting!
”Always do what you oughter, add the acid to the water…..”.
Chances are I was taught this when I studied chemical engineering about 30 years ago, but if I was then I don’t remember In any case, with the amounts etc. we’re talking about here, I’m not exactly concerned.
I’ve been working on and off on this model, and have now gotten the wheels painted as attached. Then it came to trying on the tracks, and, well …
[ATTACH]452920[/ATTACH]
I’m about five links short for each side And this is with all the links that came in the packet, as I recall. I may have to search a bit better for where I put the remainder, if there were any left, but when comparing this to the single-piece track Finemolds provides, then the metal one is about one link short, not five. Which would mean the kit track is ridiculously tight …
But looking at the photo, I think I can see what’s wrong: the track spacing seems to be slightly too small. I hadn’t noticed it in the flesh on test-fitting, but it looks like the links don’t want to go between the sprocket teeth and sit on top of them instead for most of the curve around the sprocket.
I found the bag with leftover links I had assembled the recommended number, but like I said, I think they’re slightly too short, so more are needed. Adding five resulted in:
[ATTACH]453037[/ATTACH]
With four they would be tight around the wheels, which may be more realistic but Japanese tanks often seemed to have quite saggy tracks, so I’m going with this.
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