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JPK 120 in 1:35

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  • Guest

    #106
    Well, that was a struggle

    [ATTACH]481193[/ATTACH][ATTACH]481194[/ATTACH]

    The wheels didn’t really want to go on well at all, but I got them to fit eventually. I also had to take a link out of each track because it was a bit too loose, but that’s one of the advantages of using workable tracks.

    On top, I replaced the mirror stays by 0.5 mm brass rod:

    [ATTACH]481195[/ATTACH]

    The one on the right of the vehicle had already broken off, that on the left snapped part of the way through tonight, though I had already decided to replace them both some time ago. With the plastic parts cut off, I drilled though the mounting brackets from front to back with an 0.55 mm drill, bent the rod into two L-shapes of the same size as the plastic parts, and glued them into the drilled holes. The mirrors themselves will only be added once the guns are in, because the mirrors get in the way of those.

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    • The Smythe Meister
      • Jan 2019
      • 6248

      #107
      Liking that a LOT

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      • Jim R
        SMF Supporters
        • Apr 2018
        • 15704
        • Jim
        • Shropshire

        #108
        Glad you managed to sort the issues. It's always difficult to put things right at such a late stage in a build.

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        • Guest

          #109
          Thickening the axles for the wheels would have worked perfectly, had I used thinner wire from the start. As it was, I couldn’t wind the new wire on neatly, so it was much harder to make the wheels go on right. My advice to anyone else needing to make axles thicker is to assemble a whole wheel first and use that to see if your method works, rather than testing with just a poly cap like I did.

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          • Guest

            #110
            Calling this done!

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