Academy M48A3 Patton

[stillp]

Here's my next victim:

Bought from Models For Sale at the Shuttleworth show several years ago, for £8. As far as I can make out from Scalemates and the date on the instruction sheet, it dates from 1986, so I'm not expecting state-of-the-art moulding. Sprues look pretty good though:

There's also a piece of clear plastic thin sheet for the front of the searchlight, and a length of thread for the cable to the light.
A strange thing though - the box was sealed in plastic,and each sprue was in a separate sealed bag - so why, when I washed the sprues, does it all smell like mouse p**s?
Pete

[The Smythe Meister]

Nice one Pete,
Love the look of these Pattons.... Did the Tamiya 1/35 about a year ago, I'll follow along

[stillp]

I might need some mud on the lower hull:

Looks as if a previous incarnation of this kit was intended to be motorised:

I'll need to fill a few of those holes. Or maybe not, they're on the underside.
Pete

[KarlW]

If it's like the Tamiya version there's a fair few inaccuracies, but it looks like an M48 when finished so that's all that matters

[scottie3158]

Peter,
I will follow along if I may.

[Guest]

This is a straight copy of the Tamiya kit, like all early Academy models. Chances are the parts are in different locations on the sprues, but other than that, you could use Tamiya instructions for building it. Even the markings are identical (but poorer-quality decals).

As such, like Karl said, it has a number of flaws, but it will look like an early model M48A3 with the later cupola installed. The main thing you may want to correct is to lower its suspension by a couple of millimetres, as Tamiya apparently measured up an empty vehicle so it rides higher than it should.

[BattleshipBob]

Count me in Pete

[Lee Drennen]

I’m in

[adt70hk]

Joining the party!

[JR]

Me too .

[stillp]

The road wheels and return rollers have quite a lot of mould draw taper, so I've spent most of the day sanding. Road wheels are done, but the return rollers can wait till tomorrow.


I've made a start on filling those holes in the lower hull.

Not sure how much work I'm going to do on the hull as it's impossible to sand without removing some detail.
Pete

[Guest]

It’ll be almost entirely out of sight, so I wouldn’t bother too much. The main gaps you need to fill are the vertical slots above the drive sprocket axles, I’d say — those will be in plain sight all the time.

[stillp]

I've made a bit of progress:

The kit is showing its origins as a motorised 'toy'. Where parts have locating slots, those slots are a lot wider than they should be, leaving gaps. There are also a lot of sink marks in places that can't be reached for sanding. I'll leave them and try to slop some mud around when it's finished.
One good thing is that the road wheels use poly caps, so I can remove them for painting.

Jakko, a part is provided to fill those vertical slots.

Pete

[dalej2014]

Following too...

[Guest]

Jakko, a part is provided to fill those vertical slots.

I remembered slightly wrong: I meant the slots just in front of the sprockets:

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