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Churchill Mk. IV AVRE with Small Box Girder Assault Bridge Mk. II

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  • JR
    • May 2015
    • 18273

    #226
    Thanks for the additional history.
    Reading of how they attempted to come ashore , the getting bogged down, and Spr Rampley wading ashore like that while under mortar fire . All that to contend with and then following the instructions for removing the water proofing ! Should think they had nightmares for ever after that .

    Comment

    • Guest

      #227
      I suspect they had severely underestimated how bad the landing “beach” was going to be. It’s a sandy beach today, but in 1944 it was actually the ruins of the dyke that had kept the sea at bay for over 500 years, and that been gradually built up over all that time. Most of the “beach” was not sand but mud from the clay core of the dyke (the soil on Walcheren being mostly heavy, grey clay) that had by 1 November 1944 been saturated by the sea for four weeks. Add to this large blocks of basalt that littered the clay, from the revetment on the outside of the dyke, and you have very difficult going for any vehicle, even tracked ones.

      Plus, of course, the intent was never to land the tanks here anyway — they were supposed to land a hundred metres or so further north, where the dyke was intact. That is to say, in the same area where these three LCI(S)’s [Landing Craft, Infantry (Small)] were photographed:

      [ATTACH]485978[/ATTACH]

      These were the very first ashore, the troops on the dyke are men from No. 41 (RM) Commando. As you can see, the dyke is not overly damaged here, so this would have let the tanks simply drive up it with no chance at all of bogging down: the worst driving hazard would have been slipping down the basalt slope. However, the intensity of the German fire caused the LCTs carrying the tanks to go further south, into the gap that had been bombed into the dyke, because they were sheltered from the gunfire there (but not the mortars, of course).

      I just remembered I have a photo of what the dyke looked like before the RAF blasted it to bits on 3 October 1944:

      [ATTACH]485975[/ATTACH]

      This photo looks to the west-northwest, approximately, from a high dune southeast of the village where the Germans had built a radar station; notice the trenches, AA gun etc. in the foreground. The initial gap that was bombed in the dyke ran from the windmill (which was destroyed in the bombing) to about where the light on the dyke is (the post with supports, between the mill and the fishing boats). The intended tank landing beach was to the right of the windmill as seen here, but in fact they landed to its left.

      The gap was widened later by a second bombing raid and the scouring of the tides going in and out twice a day. None of the buildings you can see on the right were more than ruins after the first attack. My great-uncle and -aunt and their toddler son lived in one of them, which is probably just in the photo (but it’s hard to say); after the bombing, their house had gone, nothing but a huge, water-filled bomb crater in its place. They themselves were nowhere to be found until his brother (my grandfather) decided to dredge the crater and found all three without so much as a scratch on them, except my great-aunt had a broken leg.

      Comment

      • Richard48
        SMF Supporters
        • Apr 2018
        • 1901
        • Richard
        • Clacton on Sea

        #228
        Really interesting read Jakko.Got me back into Churchill building mode.Ive just ordered x2 Churchill 1/2 concersions for the Afv club kits from International models asia.
        Richard

        Comment

        • Guest

          #229
          You’ll be building them sometime next year, then Well, it’s not that bad, but count on several (two to four or so) months before you get them in the mail, very neatly and tightly wrapped in packing paper.

          Comment

          • Richard48
            SMF Supporters
            • Apr 2018
            • 1901
            • Richard
            • Clacton on Sea

            #230
            Originally posted by Jakko
            You’ll be building them sometime next year, then Well, it’s not that bad, but count on several (two to four or so) months before you get them in the mail, very neatly and tightly wrapped in packing paper.
            I ordered before from them and were ok to deal with.Hoping they dont take too long to arrive.But ive got to get kits etc before i start.Might start easy by doing an Iraqi Mark v11 of the 1950s.I saw a Jordanian one on the i modeller site but im not sure if Jordan used them.Maybe the modeller got it mixed up with an Iraqi one.
            Richard

            Comment

            • Jim R
              SMF Supporters
              • Apr 2018
              • 15746
              • Jim
              • Shropshire

              #231
              Very interesting Jakko. Thanks. It's so often the smaller, lesser known facts that tell the full story.

              Comment

              • Guest

                #232
                Yes, makes it all come much more alive than the short version

                Comment

                • Guest

                  #233
                  I’ve not done much work on this model over the past week and a half or so, but we’re slowly getting there … I replaced the kit’s 2-gallon POW (Petrol, Oil, Water) cans by ones from Resicast:

                  [ATTACH]486591[/ATTACH]

                  When I wanted to buy them at a convention a few months ago, though, I was told “I can’t sell those to you, we forgot to put in the handles.” When I replied that those aren’t the hardest thing to make, so I would like this set despite the packing error, I got a discount

                  Anyway, the plastic ones in the kit are not very good, as they lack the reinforced edges, and the Resicast set includes cans with specific brand names and logos on them, so I used some of those for variation. Other good replacements are in Bronco’s Field Accessoires Set.

                  After a couple of coats of paint:

                  [ATTACH]486592[/ATTACH]

                  I first put on an undercoat of Mr. Surfacer 1000, followed by green or brown for the base colour, then thinned Army Painter Strong Tone, and a drybrush of a random colour that was lighter than the base. The caps were then painted with grey because early in the war, these were brass, but apparently, that was soon replaced by some cheap metal.

                  Two of them on the tank:

                  [ATTACH]486593[/ATTACH]

                  I glued all four to the racks and added the kit’s retaining straps over them. There is a second part representing a rod with a butterfly nut to go behind the cans, but I’ve left that off for now because I wanted to wait until the glue dried on the other pieces, so as not to inadvertently move them. Before I do that, I think I will also add the text WATER on one of the cans that have no logo.

                  Comment

                  • JR
                    • May 2015
                    • 18273

                    #234
                    Originally posted by Jakko
                    I suspect they had severely underestimated how bad the landing “beach” was going to be. It’s a sandy beach today, but in 1944 it was actually the ruins of the dyke that had kept the sea at bay for over 500 years, and that been gradually built up over all that time. Most of the “beach” was not sand but mud from the clay core of the dyke (the soil on Walcheren being mostly heavy, grey clay) that had by 1 November 1944 been saturated by the sea for four weeks. Add to this large blocks of basalt that littered the clay, from the revetment on the outside of the dyke, and you have very difficult going for any vehicle, even tracked ones.

                    Plus, of course, the intent was never to land the tanks here anyway — they were supposed to land a hundred metres or so further north, where the dyke was intact. That is to say, in the same area where these three LCI(S)’s [Landing Craft, Infantry (Small)] were photographed:

                    [ATTACH=CONFIG]n[/ATTACH]

                    These were the very first ashore, the troops on the dyke are men from No. 41 (RM) Commando. As you can see, the dyke is not overly damaged here, so this would have let the tanks simply drive up it with no chance at all of bogging down: the worst driving hazard would have been slipping down the basalt slope. However, the intensity of the German fire caused the LCTs carrying the tanks to go further south, into the gap that had been bombed into the dyke, because they were sheltered from the gunfire there (but not the mortars, of course).

                    I just remembered I have a photo of what the dyke looked like before the RAF blasted it to bits on 3 October 1944:

                    [ATTACH=CONFIG]n[/ATTACH]

                    This photo looks to the west-northwest, approximately, from a high dune southeast of the village where the Germans had built a radar station; notice the trenches, AA gun etc. in the foreground. The initial gap that was bombed in the dyke ran from the windmill (which was destroyed in the bombing) to about where the light on the dyke is (the post with supports, between the mill and the fishing boats). The intended tank landing beach was to the right of the windmill as seen here, but in fact they landed to its left.

                    The gap was widened later by a second bombing raid and the scouring of the tides going in and out twice a day. None of the buildings you can see on the right were more than ruins after the first attack. My great-uncle and -aunt and their toddler son lived in one of them, which is probably just in the photo (but it’s hard to say); after the bombing, their house had gone, nothing but a huge, water-filled bomb crater in its place. They themselves were nowhere to be found until his brother (my grandfather) decided to dredge the crater and found all three without so much as a scratch on them, except my great-aunt had a broken leg.
                    Thanks for that Jakko, great photos as well .:thumb2:

                    Comment

                    • Guest

                      #235
                      The brackets for the POW cans are now on completely, and painted:

                      [ATTACH]486831[/ATTACH]

                      My advice, though, would be to fit the cans and their brackets before painting the model, as following my example makes it very hard to paint the brackets.

                      But that done, I could go on to the markings. Here is the right-hand side:

                      [ATTACH]486832[/ATTACH]

                      (The turret is not on straight because the winch cable is stuffed inside the hull, to keep it out of the way.)

                      The registration number T68927/B is correct for this tank, though the /B is speculative. However, another AVRE at Westkapelle, T69114, had the same addition so I think it’s at least plausible. The numbers were assembled by cutting digits from registration numbers on the decals sheet for Tamiya’s Cromwell kit, while the /B is from this AVRE’s decal sheet.

                      The hand-painted BRAMBLE LCT5 is also speculative, but again, T69114 had a similar marking there, CHERRY LCT6, in the same style. The words Bramble and Cherry were the names of the assault groups (or in Royal Engineers terms: lanes) to which the tanks were assigned, and the 5 and 6 the numbers of the landing craft in which they were to embark. That’s not the number on the bow, by the way, but a separate “Loading Table Index Number” (LTIN) used within Operation Infatuate: LTIN 5 was LCT 737, LTIN 6 was LCT 650.

                      The rear markings are fairly simple:

                      [ATTACH]486833[/ATTACH]

                      Except for the WATER decal, which is from the Bronco accessories set, all of these are from the kit’s decals. Arm of Service marking 1234 on a blue square is 6 Assault Regiment, Royal Engineers, the bull’s head on a yellow triangle is 79 Armoured Division.

                      And the turret:

                      [ATTACH]486834[/ATTACH]

                      The star on the roof is from a Star Decals set, the A2A on the rear of the bin is hand-painted because I couldn’t find suitable decals among my many spares. It’s also speculative, but once more, T69114 had its number (A3) in a similar location and style. However, as the bin of A2A is missing in all photos I know of the wreck, it’s impossible to be sure of how it looked on this tank.

                      Comment

                      • Scratchbuilder
                        • Jul 2022
                        • 2689

                        #236
                        Now that looks the part, keep it coming.

                        Comment

                        • Guest

                          #237
                          Almost there …

                          Comment

                          • Jim R
                            SMF Supporters
                            • Apr 2018
                            • 15746
                            • Jim
                            • Shropshire

                            #238
                            Excellent. Patience, skill and your trademark thorough research has resulted in a great, unique model.

                            Comment

                            • Guest

                              #239
                              Unique in that I’m probably the only one crazy enough to try and replicate this exact tank, sure

                              Small steps to get to the finish line … I started by adding the Bowden cable that connects to the release mechanism for the wading ducts:

                              [ATTACH]486896[/ATTACH]

                              This is some 0.25 mm nylon fishing line that I painted black, then glued into a hole I drilled through the mechanism in the approximate place where the cable attached on the real thing. It’s far too long, but that’s not a problem because it will go up onto the turret roof and into the commander’s hatch, where it will disappear out of sight. Making it much too long means it will be easy to keep it in there

                              On the bridge, I added the quick-release mechanism and one of the two blocks supplied in the kit:

                              [ATTACH]486897[/ATTACH]

                              As you can see, they attach with clasps and pins, again just the ones that come in the kit. The cable is 0.25 mm fishing line again, glued into a hole I drilled into the side of the release mechanism.

                              I then attached the other block on the tank side to the cable on the front of the winch cage in a similar way:

                              [ATTACH]486898[/ATTACH]

                              That done, I threaded the winch cable through the blocks and used it to pull up the bridge — until the little cable on the winch cage, broke free from the clasp, because it pulled through the joint between the clasp and the pin The problem is that AFV Club moulded a hole in only one side of the clasps, then supply pins that are exactly long enough to fit. Had they put the hole all the way through both sides and supplied longer pins, there would be zero risk of this happening. My solution was to run a 1 mm drill through the hole and use it to open up the other side as well, then put in a length of 1 mm brass rod, as you can see in the photo. Once I had attached the block to the cable with that, I superglued it in place. I will have to see about glueing the ring from the AFV Club pin to it; I tried, but it didn’t want to cooperate yet, so I may end up leaving it off entirely.

                              With that fix made, I threaded the winch cable through the blocks again and used it to pull up the bridge to travelling position — this works very well, even better than I had expected. I could then determine how long I needed to cut the cable for installing an eye on the end, before carefully lowering the bridge again (by holding the bridge, not the cable!) so I could glue the eye on. That is still drying, because it needs to be firmly attached before I will hook everything up.

                              Comment

                              • scottie3158
                                SMF Supporters
                                • Apr 2018
                                • 14221
                                • Paul
                                • Holbeach

                                #240
                                Jakko,
                                Looking very nice mate.

                                Comment

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