Another First - 1/35 CH2 TES.

[Tim Marlow]

Pigments aren’t strictly necessary either Jim. Artist students cheap Pastel chalks and some 400 wet and dry will cover most bases.

[Waspie]

Pigments aren’t strictly necessary either Jim. Artist students cheap Pastel chalks and some 400 wet and dry will cover most bases.

Strangely, I have been looking at pastel chalks after reading about some chap who made his own pigments. Seems a very cheap option too.
Right now, I'll stick to the basics!!!!! :thumb2: :smiling2:

[Tim Marlow]

Strangely, I have been looking at pastel chalks after reading about some chap who made his own pigments. Seems a very cheap option too.
Right now, I'll stick to the basics!!!!! :thumb2: :smiling2:

Ground up pastels and an old brush are great for generating rust, smoke, and exhaust stains in my opinion. Far more controllable than paint or washes and very easy to modify with a damp brush.

[Scratchbuilder]

Doug,
Just caught up to your progress so far.
Do not worry about missing bits with the primer, all of us do it, except usually it is in the place where we cannot reach and it sticks out like a sore thumb and we cannot rotate the model to get at it.
Going back to the brush for applying the NATO green, good practice, but if it looks uneven then get out the a/b and just have a quick spray over with a thiined coat to even out the brush marks.
Tracks are superb, and do not worry about the connectors, a quick look reveals nothing because it will be the main vehicle that people look at.
Pigments, store bought or pastels are good for the final dressing. If I cannot get anything close from my pigment collection, then I dig out the pastels ground out some of the colours and mix my own - but remember not to sneeze, its a bu^^^r trying to clean up after.
Mike

[Waspie]

Well, thank you guys for your comments and positive remarks.
SWIMBO keeps asking when It'll be finished. I reply, 'when it is' usually. Which really ummm - annoys her!! It's a hobby I keep saying not a project with a completion target. The times I have rushed have been the times I have messed up so 'steady as she goes' as they say.

Mike, I think I may well wear a face mask if it comes to grounding my own pigments. I had visions of a multi coloured workshop/bench/wherever!!!!!! You always want to sneeze at the most inconvenient time!!:sick::smiling5:

[Scratchbuilder]

Well, thank you guys for your comments and positive remarks.
SWIMBO keeps asking when It'll be finished. I reply, 'when it is' usually. Which really ummm - annoys her!! It's a hobby I keep saying not a project with a completion target. The times I have rushed have been the times I have messed up so 'steady as she goes' as they say.

Mike, I think I may well wear a face mask if it comes to grounding my own pigments. I had visions of a multi coloured workshop/bench/wherever!!!!!! You always want to sneeze at the most inconvenient time!!:sick::smiling5:

Believe me, the times I have done it with the rivets on my bridge, or wafted away the errant fly :tired:....

[Waspie]

OK, managed a wee bit today but I'm not overly happy with the result! 2nd coat of Vallejo Nato Green (90%) + Vallejo white (10%) added 3 drops of distilled water yet it still looks 'brushy'. Although the barrel which I did apply a 3rd coat does look better.

Any of you paint guys have any clues as to if I'm doing anything wrong? I'm using a wide, angled brush, to assist in getting behind the cages on the turret.

All comments and criticisms gratefully received.

Pics below.

Turret, would have liked a more even coat at this 2nd coat stage!! Or am I expecting too much?


Stopped on the wheel well as I ran out of paint at that point and food was beckoning!!! (Also, this part will be mostly hidden by the wheels and armoured sides!)

[Andy T]

I can't brush paint large areas to save my life so will pin my ears back for any advice you get.

[Tim Marlow]

Not really my field either, but I would suggest a flat, rather than a round brush as a starter. The brush maestro on here is young spanner…..

[Waspie]

Not really my field either, but I would suggest a flat, rather than a round brush as a starter. The brush maestro on here is young spanner…..

It is flat Tim, about a half inch wide. It also has a 40(ish) degree angle, specifically chosen to get behind the cage protection as a standard flat brush was kinda awkward painting the same area.

[Tim Marlow]

It is flat Tim, about a half inch wide. It also has a 40(ish) degree angle, specifically chosen to get behind the cage protection as a standard flat brush was kinda awkward painting the same area.

Bit surprised in that case. Looks like another couple of coats are needed. Only other thing I can suggest is to add a drop of flow aid so the paint film evens out more before it dries.
I like those brushes as well, by the way. They are called angled shaders I think. I use similar brushes, called cutting in brushes, for home decorating for exactly the same reason

[Waspie]

Bit surprised in that case. Looks like another couple of coats are needed. Only other thing I can suggest is to add a drop of flow aid so the paint film evens out more before it dries.
I like those brushes as well, by the way. They are called angled shaders I think. I use similar brushes, called cutting in brushes, for home decorating for exactly the same reason

Snap, I just wish I was as good walloping paint on a tank as well as I am a wall in the house!!!! :thumb2: :smiling5: Have a set from way back, (Dulux), cost a packet at the time but over the past 30 odd years and 3 house moves they have proved very economic.

[Tim Marlow]

Snap, I just wish I was as good walloping paint on a tank as well as I am a wall in the house!!!! :thumb2: :smiling5: Have a set from way back, (Dulux), cost a packet at the time but over the past 30 odd years and 3 house moves they have proved very economic.

Actually, I use Harris tradesmen brushes from Screwfix. They are only a few quid each, but are excellent quality.

[minitnkr]

Why the white? Looks like it didn't mix well.

[Scratchbuilder]

Who's paint are you using? I have used some of the 'model air' and others with a brush and to be frank my p.... was stronger and would have covered better.
I can only suggest a change of paint manufacturer or give the whole model a coat of thinned paint with the airbrush, allow to dry for a half hour and then if need be re coat untill you are happy. Let this dry for 24 hours. Then a coat of satin or gloss, and then a wash of thin oil paint either black or Burnt Umber (brown). This will tone down the top coat and once dry then you can go to work with the pigments.
Do not lose patience with this problem, it can be cured. I have as I said had this problem in the past and got over it.
Cheers
Mike.