Another First - 1/35 CH2 TES.

[langy71]

Excellent work on the P.E., 'you've taken your first steps into a much larger world'.. :thumb2: :thumb2:

[Guest]

Nice work It’ll get easier with practice, of course, but you have done very well with these bits already.

[Waspie]

Thats a good start :thumb2:

Thank you Mark.

Excellent work on the P.E., 'you've taken your first steps into a much larger world'.. :thumb2: :thumb2:

As long as the PE doesn't get much smaller Chris!

Nice work :smiling3: It’ll get easier with practice, of course, but you have done very well with these bits already.

Thank you Jakko, your previous guide to PE was invaluable. In the end I used a small metal 6" rule, A small ¼" chisel!!! (Don't ask!) and a staley knife blade!! Not sophisticated but workable!!!

[Guest]

Thank you Mark.

As long as the PE doesn't get much smaller Chris!

Thank you Jakko, your previous guide to PE was invaluable. In the end I used a small metal 6" rule, A small ¼" chisel!!! (Don't ask!) and a staley knife blade!! Not sophisticated but workable!!!

They will have you soldering next Doug !

[Tim Marlow]

Thank you Mark.

As long as the PE doesn't get much smaller Chris!

Thank you Jakko, your previous guide to PE was invaluable. In the end I used a small metal 6" rule, A small ¼" chisel!!! (Don't ask!) and a staley knife blade!! Not sophisticated but workable!!!

Good work on the etch. It’s that sort of open type rack thing that etch is invaluable for. Jakko’s hints are pretty much exactly how I do this stuff. I would add that sometimes a convex curved blade is very useful for cutting off etch from a fret. You can just roll it over the tag to remove the part. Pulling a straight blade through the fret tags risks damage to the part.

[Waspie]

Good work on the etch. It’s that sort of open type rack thing that etch is invaluable for. Jakko’s hints are pretty much exactly how I do this stuff. I would add that sometimes a convex curved blade is very useful for cutting off etch from a fret. You can just roll it over the tag to remove the part. Pulling a straight blade through the fret tags risks damage to the part.

Strangely!! I do use a curved scalpel blade to remove the individual pieces!!

[Waspie]

They will have you soldering next Doug !

Oh No!! :flushed: A step too far!!

[Tim Marlow]

Oh No!! :flushed: A step too far!!

Really not that hard Doug. Just the right tools and the right techniques, just like any other assembly job.

[scottie3158]

You will soon be addicted.

[Jim R]

PE looks fine Doug. As Jakko says it does get easier but you'll still have plenty of frustrating moments.

[Dave Ward]

When I look at a PE set, I divide it up into 4 categories - Must use! - Try to use. - Would be nice to use - You must be joking!
Dave

[Waspie]

When I look at a PE set, I divide it up into 4 categories - Must use! - Try to use. - Would be nice to use - You must be joking!
Dave

Sounds like sage advice.

[Waspie]

Genera modern Army question.
5 gallon fuel cans, are they generally green on colour?
5 gallon water cans were always black, is that still the case?

[langy71]

Genera modern Army question.
5 gallon fuel cans, are they generally green on colour?
5 gallon water cans were always black, is that still the case?

As far as I can remember yeah ,
although I'll bet somebody has more up to date info..

[Waspie]

As far as I can remember yeah ,
although I'll bet somebody has more up to date info..

Thanks Chris. Nothing has changed then!
I ask as I'm at that part of the build I need to decide to fit then into place!! BUT, If I do, then it will be difficult if not impossible when I come to paint the hull later. So at the moment, I will build the frame and fix in place, then, once the hull is painted, place the correctly coloured cans in the frame!!
That's the plan today!! Things may change!!
I'm starting to write notes now in the instructions to remind me of my future intentions!!! (I think it's an age thing)