Chances are there’s also tan/sand-coloured ones, but really modern (> 1990s) stuff isn’t really my thing so I could be wrong.
Another First - 1/35 CH2 TES.
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(Which gets me thinking - I fancy a crack at a Jackal kit if the beast exists) Google time!!!!! :thumb2:Comment
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Bit more progress today as mini-pooch was still knackered from a long walk yesterday.
Fit the suspension bits, road wheel axles and some minor parts. The time consuming bit is filing off the bits of sprue.
I'm guessing now might be the time to start painting the hull as most of the main parts are in place now.
Next step(s). Road wheels and the dreaded tracks. Methinks I may be working on the tracks for a little while!!!
As this is my first piece of armour, any hints or tips or comments at this stage would be most appreciated!!! I thank you - in my best Arthur Askey voice!! :rolling:Comment
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Cutting them off with a knife is much quicker
Tip 2: When you remove and clean up the track parts from the sprues, sort them into different containers so you can keep the parts straight. Like this:
Those are the parts for another Rye Field Model set of tracks, this time for a Sherman — see my review of the set, it probably has a few more tips you can use for your model.
Tip 3: Don’t bother building two full tracks. Your model will have skirts covering almost the whole of the top run, so any effort spent on that part of the track is entirely wasted. Much simpler to just put enough links together for the part you can actually see, plus a few extra, and then either glue them over the idler wheel and drive sprocket, or tie the ends together with thread so you can pull the track tight around the wheels.Comment
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Guest
That looks like it’s going well. You probably don’t need that many jigs stuck together, but if it works, it worksWorkable tracks are usually a lot of effort to put together, but I like the way they will fit around the wheels realistically, yet can be painted separately from the rest of the model and then installed easily.
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SteveComment
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