Well done Doug great job you must be pleased ,it only gets easier from here its as much a confidence thing as anything else. Can I ask why the drop of washing up liquid was used ,as far as weathering goes its a learning curve we've all been down and I'm afraid in my case anyway ruined a few builds along the way practice never quite makes it perfect but once again get a few tricks up your sleeve and the confidence thing kicks in you start to tread in places you didn't before. YouTube is a great place to learn from but trying to copy isn't a good way to go ,get the jist of what their doing and ideas then go your own way with it. Any way put your hand over your shoulder and give yourself a pat on the back . Bring on the next one. Dave
Another First - 1/35 CH2 TES.
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Well done Doug great job you must be pleased ,it only gets easier from here its as much a confidence thing as anything else. Can I ask why the drop of washing up liquid was used ,as far as weathering goes its a learning curve we've all been down and I'm afraid in my case anyway ruined a few builds along the way practice never quite makes it perfect but once again get a few tricks up your sleeve and the confidence thing kicks in you start to tread in places you didn't before. YouTube is a great place to learn from but trying to copy isn't a good way to go ,get the jist of what their doing and ideas then go your own way with it. Any way put your hand over your shoulder and give yourself a pat on the back . Bring on the next one. Dave
I've seen a couple of chaps on YT advocate using washing up stuff in the mix so! In for a penny in for a pound - I gave it a go. Didn't seem too bad. Just about everything on this build has been a learning curve for me. As I may have mentioned somewhere, it's only my second kit in 50 or so years so experimentation and listening to guys on here has been the order of the day!!
Thanks again for your words of encouragement, as I say, appreciated.Comment
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Already ordered the next project. And that will be new territory. A car!!!!!! Never ever built a car. Hopefully I'll base it on my old V-Dubs. My good ole Outspan Orange!! VW Beetle. Already hit my first problem with that. Correct scale Reg numbers and letters!! (I'll get there - even if it means cheating).
Which happens to be the family motto; If at first you don't succeed - Cheat!!Comment
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Well done mate, this is the fun of modelling trying and perfecting new techniques. As you build up your collection use an old kit as a test piece prior to using on a finished build.Comment
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Guest
That’s looking pretty good. Like all things modelling, it’s a learning curve: your next model will incorporate the lessons from this one, as you get more used to the techniques and can apply them better to get what’s in your head actually on the model.
I was wondering about that too, but I figure it’s to break the water’s surface tension. Trying to get a wash from water + paint to flow on a glossy surface is not exactly easy, and I suppose the washing-up liquid helps. IMHO it’s far simpler to not gloss the model at all, and just work on a matt surface where beading of the wash is very much less of a problem.Comment
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Right, this is my last post in the 'Under Construction' section!
Today was the day I applied a couple of coats of matt clear to the whole kit. As of today, it's as complete as it's ever likely to be.
The last 2 images of it under construction.
Hull complete with final coats!
And the turret!
There are a plethora of errors and mistakes but I'm leaving them as a reminder to what NOT to do in future builds.
The ones that niggle me most are the antenna on the platform looking like drunken matelots after a night out in Guzz!!
One of the RPG cages on the rear looks like it's misaligned, (which it is), but I've seen enough of them at Bovington after a coming together with one of the access gates!! So that stays!! (Anyway, after the third attempt at trying to align it I stuck my hands in the air and shouted 'I surrender'!!!
If you're still here and reading this, I thank you. Hopefully build 3 will be better after lessons learned on builds 1 and 2.
Thank you all for your guidance and advice.
Luv and kisses - Doug:blow-kiss-2:
PS, I'll be sticking pics of the completed fully assembled kit in the completed section a wee bit later!!Comment
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Doug,
This is looking most excellent... a job well done indeed.
I have a final suggestion for you, before you put on your final 'sealing' coat, maybe mix up the original base colour with a drop of light grey...(just to lighten the base colour a tad..not much), then use this 'new' colour to gently drybrush the raised areas on the tank, this will help highlight the areas that would look lighter due to sunlight and natural wear and tear.. and help break up the 'block of colour' appearance that single colour subjects tend to have..Comment
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Doug,
This is looking most excellent... a job well done indeed.
I have a final suggestion for you, before you put on your final 'sealing' coat, maybe mix up the original base colour with a drop of light grey...(just to lighten the base colour a tad..not much), then use this 'new' colour to gently drybrush the raised areas on the tank, this will help highlight the areas that would look lighter due to sunlight and natural wear and tear.. and help break up the 'block of colour' appearance that single colour subjects tend to have...) However, I take your point re painting, I'll try and remember for the next bit of armour.:thumb2:
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My first question is: what is the wash intended to do? If you want it to shade the model, then you need to mix one that’s clearly darker than the base colour. OTOH, if you intend it as weathering, so to represent dust and dirt, pick a colour that represents that.
You say you made a wash of burnt umber with water. That sounds like artist’s acrylic paint, the kind that comes in a tube? I haven’t used that in a long time, but for a wash made from acrylic model paint plus water, I liberally apply it all over the model and don’t wipe it off at all except where it pools (usually at the bottoms of vertical or strongly sloped surfaces). The trick, though, is knowing how far to thin it. This is a bit of an art, but luckily, every AFV model gives you a perfect place to test it:
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Well, unless you want to enter your model in an IPMS competition, anyway:
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Apparently (according to the comments on the forum I got the picture from), IPMS rules say the underside must be finished too … so there goes the Churchill I posted the photo ofIMHO, though, this kind of thing is why starting in the 90s, many modelling competitions switched to rules that say the judges can’t handle model, inspect it with more than the naked eye, etc.
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