I even visit the DIY store more because of her and hesitate to buy a new tool and sneak it into the house just like I do with new kits. :smiling6::tears-of-joy:
IDF M109 'Doher'
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..... please add your own ending. These are common orders requests - DIY projects, shopping, entertaining relatives, getting the Christmas stuff from the attic, garden jobs, cleaning her car, cleaning the windows, mending that something that has been needing work for a year or two, stopping the kitchen tap dripping etc. etc - the list goes on and on. Us blokes do suffer!
I cannot add an ending - it is never ending....Comment
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Update,
Friend in IDF has sent a message to let me know that I will be recieving pics of the sighting digital system they have now as opposed to the look through sighting system, so the build will be back on track soon. Tells me he has been a bit busy of late - that I think is an understatement, sent my regards to stay safe.
More later.
The sorting out went well, moved the never to be finished builds to the shed from the attic, to the garage and found a resting place for them - the attic....
Mike.Comment
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Soooo! following on from the last update, I did recieve the said information - forget the kit and the update kit - nothing wrong with either except they are not for the IDF version...
The model has been washed in IPA, sanded and caressed back to its naked self (almost). A couple of parts were obviously broken being flimsy resin, but I expected that so no problem. The ready ammo storage either side of the lower doors was the first to get the treatment...
Not very clear but restraining straps and buckles have been added..
This is the scratched bulkhead and accessories, there is still one more box to add and the verticle pipe which once in place has a protective cover over it. Gone is the 'stove pipe' from the middle left. And just the odd nut and bolt and restraining straps to add.
Bit blurred, but this is one of two stowage boxes, still to add the seat cushions, I will try to do a better job with the photos of the completed pair.
When you look inside the left turret rear there is a rack of 16 ammo storage tubes, this is work being done with seven more to be added and the relevant 'wires' which I think loop through the nose ring of the shell. I am reliably informed they use this to hold 2ltr bottles of water.
This is the rebuilt traversing wheel, sixe is about 10mm overall.
And that as the bishop said to the actress is all I have at the moment...
More later
Mike.Comment
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Soooo! following on from the last update, I did recieve the said information - forget the kit and the update kit - nothing wrong with either except they are not for the IDF version...
The model has been washed in IPA, sanded and caressed back to its naked self (almost). A couple of parts were obviously broken being flimsy resin, but I expected that so no problem. The ready ammo storage either side of the lower doors was the first to get the treatment...
[ATTACH]496901[/ATTACH]
Not very clear but restraining straps and buckles have been added..
[ATTACH]496902[/ATTACH]
This is the scratched bulkhead and accessories, there is still one more box to add and the verticle pipe which once in place has a protective cover over it. Gone is the 'stove pipe' from the middle left. And just the odd nut and bolt and restraining straps to add.
[ATTACH]496903[/ATTACH]
Bit blurred, but this is one of two stowage boxes, still to add the seat cushions, I will try to do a better job with the photos of the completed pair.
[ATTACH]496904[/ATTACH]
When you look inside the left turret rear there is a rack of 16 ammo storage tubes, this is work being done with seven more to be added and the relevant 'wires' which I think loop through the nose ring of the shell. I am reliably informed they use this to hold 2ltr bottles of water.
[ATTACH]496905[/ATTACH]
This is the rebuilt traversing wheel, sixe is about 10mm overall.
And that as the bishop said to the actress is all I have at the moment...
More later
Mike.
Note, keep eye out for tubing!!!Comment
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Guest
As the Warrior enters its final stages, the next item on my build list is the IDF M109 'Doher'.
I was going to base it on the Kinetic kit that I had just added to the stash BUT, after trying to get the twisted lower hull square in hot water, I gave it the elbow and plumped for the AFV Club M109. Later on I will return to the Kinetic one and revert this to either a British version or an American....
So.... out came the kit, the reference and the extras....
[ATTACH]494306[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]494307[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]494308[/ATTACH]
The extras include Black Dog resin interior, Voyager etch and AFV Club 'workable' tracks...
So the first job was to assemble the lower hull...
[ATTACH]494310[/ATTACH]
This consists of seven parts and needs to be square. I started with the rear panel and the floor, these were squared up on a sheet of thick glass rescued from someones discarded video/dvd recorder cupboard, Then came the sides, tops to the track sponsons and finally the sides and front of the hull.
[ATTACH]494311[/ATTACH]
As I am adding the interior I decided that all of the ejector pin marks and the holes that you have to drill out would all be filled, this prevents the rivet counters from their "Ooooohhhh!!! let's count the ejector pin holes (sniff)" factor...
[ATTACH]494312[/ATTACH]
First job was to add the floor and here because the hull sides are at a slight angle the floor has to be slid in from the front to the rear and then the front of the floor slightly bent to clear the final drive housing...
[ATTACH]494313[/ATTACH]
... As seen here, I also used the spare center torsion block to support the front of the floor. I decided to fit part of the drivers compartment which would then give me a reference for the other bulkheads to fit.
Now that beautiful clean bench that you saw earlier - well now they look like this....
[ATTACH]494314[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]494315[/ATTACH]
The pliers are there to hold the resin blocks when sawing...
More later
Cheers
Mike.
I have a few pertinent questions;
1.Would you consider using LEDS for the interior?
2.What do you use for the vision devices - do you use crystal paints for lens colour?
3.When cutting/sawing resin blocks do you use a face mask and do you use water on saw to keep dust down
4. I recently bought a 0.1 saw from Japan. What saw do you use? I just wanted to know tolerance for blade thickness
5. What does ‘Hil Hatotehim’ (?) mean?
6. Will you be buying the Borders Merkava with full interior?!Comment
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Hi Magneto,
Welcome to the blog.
Now for the answers.
1. LED's - no I leave the electrics to those that know better than me.
2. I use either Blue/Black/Green on acetate sheet taken from those packages you get at the supermarket. The Blue and Green come from the AK clear colours 505/504 which I take a largish blob from the bottle and then use gravity to move it around the sheet. Then when it has spread I place it under a cover and leave it to both dry and level itself out. Then I cut to size and apply with pva. The black is either Black paint or my sadly depleting supply of exposed 35mm film which I collected when at Uni/College doing my degree in Graphic Design. With so much photography there was plenty of waste from failed project sessions.
3. I always use a face mask made by JSP, which I also use for spraying paint. One thing I learned if nothing else after a heart attack through bad diet, lack of rest, smoking and drinking was DBS - Don't Be Stupid....
4. I use what are commonly referred to as 'Zona' saws Fine, Medium and Coarse for general cutting both resin and plastic. For fine cutting I have a variety of ASK Razor Saw Blades 70/70 teeth or finer (available from John at The Scale Model Shop). Main working knife is a Stanley knife, not the retractible blade type. Also a variety of scalpel blades 10A, 10, 09, 11.
5. Move Away.
6. No, you cannot see very much, and the 'exploded' tank model has been done to death. I have a Panther with the full interior (did not read the description fully) so it will eventually be completed without it.
The Handwheel. This is a ring made from annealed copper wire wound around a drill bit of the diameter required (or nearest) it was then c/a'd at the joint, the centre was from punched out discs of plastic and the same with the handle.
Hope this has helped you out some.
Cheers
Mike.Comment
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Guest
Hi Magneto,
Welcome to the blog.
Now for the answers.
1. LED's - no I leave the electrics to those that know better than me.
2. I use either Blue/Black/Green on acetate sheet taken from those packages you get at the supermarket. The Blue and Green come from the AK clear colours 505/504 which I take a largish blob from the bottle and then use gravity to move it around the sheet. Then when it has spread I place it under a cover and leave it to both dry and level itself out. Then I cut to size and apply with pva. The black is either Black paint or my sadly depleting supply of exposed 35mm film which I collected when at Uni/College doing my degree in Graphic Design. With so much photography there was plenty of waste from failed project sessions.
3. I always use a face mask made by JSP, which I also use for spraying paint. One thing I learned if nothing else after a heart attack through bad diet, lack of rest, smoking and drinking was DBS - Don't Be Stupid....
4. I use what are commonly referred to as 'Zona' saws Fine, Medium and Coarse for general cutting both resin and plastic. For fine cutting I have a variety of ASK Razor Saw Blades 70/70 teeth or finer (available from John at The Scale Model Shop). Main working knife is a Stanley knife, not the retractible blade type. Also a variety of scalpel blades 10A, 10, 09, 11.
5. Move Away.
6. No, you cannot see very much, and the 'exploded' tank model has been done to death. I have a Panther with the full interior (did not read the description fully) so it will eventually be completed without it.
The Handwheel. This is a ring made from annealed copper wire wound around a drill bit of the diameter required (or nearest) it was then c/a'd at the joint, the centre was from punched out discs of plastic and the same with the handle.
Hope this has helped you out some.
Cheers
Mike.Comment
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