Tamiya 1/35 Churchill Mk VII Tank

[Guest]

I’ll agree with the above: I just scrape most mould lines away with the sharp side of my modelling knife. If the surface really needs to be flat, I’ll use a diamond file (a set like this costs you next to nothing and should last forever if you just file plastic kit parts with them), but usually, the knife will be enough.

For the parts you showed, though, you likely won’t even need to remove the mould lines. They’re on the underside and will be invisible, or almost so, with the tank on its wheels.

As for fitting the wheels before or after painting, again, as above: that depends on preference — and therefore, experience However, my take on it is that, if something gets in the way for painting, it’s probably best to leave it off until afterward. On a Churchill, I would put the drive sprockets and idler wheels in already, but leave them loose (so you can rotate them to paint them all over), but only fit the roadwheels after painting both the suspension and the wheels themselves.

[Guest]

Construction is still ongoing. Just put the sides on and next job is to work on the top body.

[Andy the Sheep]

A bit late but I'm joining this distinguished audience.
Good progress, Steve.
As I said before, nothing's better than a Tamiya kit to restore our own pride and mojo.

[Waspie]

It's looking good Steve. You must be feeling better about the construction of this one. If not - you should be. :thumb2: Elastic band AND clamps, now that's just showing off!!!

[Steve-the-Duck]

It's looking good Steve. You must be feeling better about the construction of this one. If not - you should be. :thumb2: Elastic band AND clamps, now that's just showing off!!!

Belt and braces right there

[Waspie]

Belt and braces right there

Maybe a piece of string just to add that additional security!!!!! Ya never knows!!!! :smiling2: :smiling2: :smiling2:

[Scratchbuilder]

Steve, adding thinner to the Tamiya paint... This can work, but you my need to add more thinner to the paint. I have tried it and it does work up to a point. Best way is to pour what you need into a pill cup and add the same amount of thinners, 50/50 mix.

[Guest]

Started priming the hull bottom and top last night, got the bottom done and as soon as I started on the top.. my damn primer ran out.
I use humbrol rattlecan primer but jeez it's so very expensive. Just ordered some cheaper primer (rustoleum) it's coming tomorrow.

(Note: I've not glued on the fuel can, shovels, extra track segments or tow cable(is it?) as I figured it would be better to paint them and then glue them on.)

[Dave Ward]

Steve,
it's been said already - but wash the rubber band tracks in warm water & washing up liquid - realy swish them around - rinse in clean water & air dry ( overnight! ). This will allow paint to stick - it'll never be as strong as paint on ordinary polystyrene, but gives you a fighting chance! I normally prime my tracks with a mix of earth brown, with just a touch of gunmetal & allow a day or so to really dry before further work. I suspect every modeller has his own technique, you just have to choose the one that works for you!
Dave

[Guest]

Steve,
it's been said already - but wash the rubber band tracks in warm water & washing up liquid - realy swish them around - rinse in clean water & air dry ( overnight! ). This will allow paint to stick - it'll never be as strong as paint on ordinary polystyrene, but gives you a fighting chance! I normally prime my tracks with a mix of earth brown, with just a touch of gunmetal & allow a day or so to really dry before further work. I suspect every modeller has his own technique, you just have to choose the one that works for you!
Dave

Thanks, I'll do that today!

[Gern]

Started priming the hull bottom and top last night, got the bottom done and as soon as I started on the top.. my damn primer ran out.
I use humbrol rattlecan primer but jeez it's so very expensive. Just ordered some cheaper primer (rustoleum) it's coming tomorrow.

(Note: I've not glued on the fuel can, shovels, extra track segments or tow cable(is it?) as I figured it would be better to paint them and then glue them on.)

[ATTACH=CONFIG]n1220180[/ATTACH]

It always amazes me when modellers add all those bits then paint them on the model. Surely it has to be easier to paint them first then add them? Each to their own though.

[Guest]

I use humbrol rattlecan primer but jeez it's so very expensive.

For most modelling purposes, good aerosol primer from a car paint shop will work fine too.

It always amazes me when modellers add all those bits then paint them on the model. Surely it has to be easier to paint them first then add them?

I usually add them first if they’ll end up painted the same colour as the rest of the model (like American tools, they were olive drab much of the time) or if there are things to be added to the tools but which need to sit right on the vehicle, like straps.

[Steve-the-Duck]

For most modelling purposes, good aerosol primer from a car paint shop will work fine too.

Yup. Halfords grey, black or white, depending on the finish I want. About eight quid for a can twice the size than the sort of 'model specific' primers that cost twice as much!

[Gern]

For most modelling purposes, good aerosol primer from a car paint shop will work fine too.


I usually add them first if they’ll end up painted the same colour as the rest of the model (like American tools, they were olive drab much of the time) or if there are things to be added to the tools but which need to sit right on the vehicle, like straps.

I should have said, I meant it would be easier to paint them separately if they're a different colour. Am I right thinking the tools etc could be added to the vehicle before it was painted and therefore they'd end up the same?

[Guest]

On the real thing, you mean? That depends. American tools generally got dip-painted olive drab at the factory, either the tool factory or the vehicle factory (I’m not sure), and only then added to the already-painted vehicle. The Germans, when they camouflage-painted their tanks, tended to leave the tools on so those would just be painted along, and the Americans did much the same in those units that applied (usually black) patches to their vehicles. This helps the camouflage, of course, because now the tools will stand out less than if they’re a different colour than the vehicle they’re on.