Tamiya 1/35 M4A3 Sherman

[A_J_Rimmer]

Hi All,

Wanted a simple project I could force through the low mojo barrier and actually get finished, so I started this last week. The intention is to build it OOB, with the minimum of work, just to get it over the finish line. That being said however, I'm pretty new to large scale armour modelling, and I've certainly never painted 'real world' figures before, so it's still got it's challenges. I'm also pretty poor at weathering - lots of interesting stuff to learn.



Here's where I am thus far - the bottom and upper hull parts assembled, along with all the running gear. Not sure if I should assemble them all together before paint, or paint the parts up first and then assemble. Answers on a post-card please. I know there's a lot of 'issues' with this kit (hatch detail, welds, big arse holes etc.), but I'm choosing to ignore them for this build.





Annoyingly, one of the rear light guards flew into the either whilst coming off the sprue, so I'll have to scratch-build a new one.



I'm hoping to make a start on the Turret this evening.

[Waspie]

I'll tag along Arnold, I've only ever done one piece of armour! (Must do another one day as I do like the tracks!!)

[Guest]

You’re doing well there. I’d put most of it together, but leave the bogies, drive sprockets, and idler wheels loose, as well as the machine gun on top of the turret. This will let you paint the rubber tyres (only the twelve main wheels have those, BTW, not the idler wheels or the small return rollers) much more easily than when the bogies are already glued to the tank. Once painted, you can dry-fit the bogies to see where you need to scrape the paint off so you can glue the bogies to the hull. You don’t need to glue the sprockets and idlers, because they have poly caps inside them so they’re just a push-fit onto their axles.

[Jim R]

Good to see your build. I'd go with Jakko's recommendation. What to fix in place before painting and what to paint before assembly is always a balance. Paint first and you risk spoiling the paint when gluing , fix first and you could make painting very difficult. Being Tamiya this should go together well with not too many small parts. OK it has some accuracy issues but when built it will look like a Sherman.
My only advice is double check the instructions and dry fit everything a few times before gluing. Above all enjoy it and be proud of what you achieve. Looking forward to seeing your progress.

[Guest]

Also: you can paint bits that will be hard to reach later on and then proceed with glueing things over them. For example, the stowage shelf on the back of your tank: it will cover the rear plate, but leave a gap that will be just about impossible to get paint under. So just paint the area that will be covered by the shelf, and the side of the shelf that faces the rear armour, then glue the shelf on.

Oh, BTW, remove the crank that’s on the rear plate, the one that will be covered by the stowage shelf. Your tank is an M4A3 and those didn’t have a starting crank Tamiya made a mistake there, and put it on their M4A3 when it should only be on an M4 and M4A1. This is because those had radial engines, and those needed to be cranked over by hand through four engine revolutions before it could be started, else it ran a good chance of seizing up entirely due to oil having drained to the lower cylinders while it was stationary. This required fifty turns on the hand crank … However, the M4A3 had a V8 engine that didn’t need any of this — press the button and it starts safely.

[Scratchbuilder]

Arnold good to see you have picked a simple but easy kit to put together. A few simple rules apart from the advice above....
Keep it simple.
Do not try to become the super detail expert all in one go.
Use this kit as your experiment model where even glueing one piece to another has its horrors.
Use the kit to test out methods of painting and weathering...
If you become frustrated with it, put it down and take a break, it is your model so take as long as you want. In the last 10 months I have almost completed 4 models, Jakko about 2,000 and Waspie tried to destroy two that we know of :smiling6: with Jim being the referee....
We will help and encourage you through the build, Jakko is I would say our Sherman 'expert' (I am convinced he lives in one) and will be able to talk you over the technicalities.
And if you botch it up or part of it, put up a pic and we will explain the problem...
Mike.

[A_J_Rimmer]

I'll tag along Arnold, I've only ever done one piece of armour! (Must do another one day as I do like the tracks!!)

Thanks Doug! You should, it's certainly different. I've done a few pieces of small scale stuff but only ever one 1/35 kit in the past 14 years - I've started loads though lol! Really hoping to get this one finished.

[A_J_Rimmer]

You’re doing well there. I’d put most of it together, but leave the bogies, drive sprockets, and idler wheels loose, as well as the machine gun on top of the turret. This will let you paint the rubber tyres (only the twelve main wheels have those, BTW, not the idler wheels or the small return rollers) much more easily than when the bogies are already glued to the tank. Once painted, you can dry-fit the bogies to see where you need to scrape the paint off so you can glue the bogies to the hull. You don’t need to glue the sprockets and idlers, because they have poly caps inside them so they’re just a push-fit onto their axles.

Thanks Jakko, that's much appreciated. That's kind of what I thought would be best, but I know people recommend all different sorts of methods. I have since secured the top of the hull to the lower. Normally, I would box in the massive gaps under the top hull, but I'm feeling very lazy with this build.

Also: you can paint bits that will be hard to reach later on and then proceed with glueing things over them. For example, the stowage shelf on the back of your tank: it will cover the rear plate, but leave a gap that will be just about impossible to get paint under. So just paint the area that will be covered by the shelf, and the side of the shelf that faces the rear armour, then glue the shelf on.

Oh, BTW, remove the crank that’s on the rear plate, the one that will be covered by the stowage shelf. Your tank is an M4A3 and those didn’t have a starting crank :smiling3: Tamiya made a mistake there, and put it on their M4A3 when it should only be on an M4 and M4A1. This is because those had radial engines, and those needed to be cranked over by hand through four engine revolutions before it could be started, else it ran a good chance of seizing up entirely due to oil having drained to the lower cylinders while it was stationary. This required fifty turns on the hand crank … However, the M4A3 had a V8 engine that didn’t need any of this — press the button and it starts safely.

Cool - thanks! I had intended to paint the area first but really good to know about the crank. I'm not that informed about US armour but I do think I've head about those radial engines - are those the same ones that were fitted to the Hellcat, sucking ice cold air through the crew compartment in the winter and freezing the crew to death.

I'll get the crank taken off. As you seem to be the 'Sherman guy' maybe you can help with a question - what's going on with these undersides? I assume the parts coming out of the rear of the bottom hull are exhausts, but that's with the big thing hanging off the back - was it a heat exchanger or radiator or something (and should they be connected?)

[A_J_Rimmer]

Good to see your build. I'd go with Jakko's recommendation. What to fix in place before painting and what to paint before assembly is always a balance. Paint first and you risk spoiling the paint when gluing , fix first and you could make painting very difficult. Being Tamiya this should go together well with not too many small parts. OK it has some accuracy issues but when built it will look like a Sherman.
My only advice is double check the instructions and dry fit everything a few times before gluing. Above all enjoy it and be proud of what you achieve. Looking forward to seeing your progress.

Thanks Jim, that's sage advice indeed. tbh, I'm so used to building old crappy Airfix kits and the like that even an old Tamiya kit like this has been a wonderful change. I hear you on the instructions though, they're not that clear in places - I actually assembled the first bogie with the older spoked wheels before I picked up on the note about the later solid type. Thankfully the glue hadn't cured so I could take it apart and change them! Lesson learnt!

[A_J_Rimmer]

Arnold good to see you have picked a simple but easy kit to put together. A few simple rules apart from the advice above....
Keep it simple.
Do not try to become the super detail expert all in one go.
Use this kit as your experiment model where even glueing one piece to another has its horrors.
Use the kit to test out methods of painting and weathering...
If you become frustrated with it, put it down and take a break, it is your model so take as long as you want. In the last 10 months I have almost completed 4 models, Jakko about 2,000 and Waspie tried to destroy two that we know of :smiling6: with Jim being the referee....
We will help and encourage you through the build, Jakko is I would say our Sherman 'expert' (I am convinced he lives in one) and will be able to talk you over the technicalities.
And if you botch it up or part of it, put up a pic and we will explain the problem...
Mike.

Thanks Mike, that's very much appreciated, and very much where my head is with this build. OOB, not correcting the issues etc. etc. I should get the construction finished soon, but the painting and weathering - that's going to be fun, especailly the figures and the weathering. But I don't want to go OTT with this build. Maybe just some general grime, streaks, dust and mud 0 I can kind of see how I want it, no idea how to get there - so I'll be asking advice. :smiling5: Funny, I've mudded up some small 1/76 stuff, but that was just a case of dark earth paint, acrylic medium and a citadel wash. This larger scale stuff I can see needs a lot more care - but I'd like to get it right, so I'm looking forward to learning some new techniques and investing some in some new products.

You may have only completed four, but from what I've seen they look awesome. But others, how they can turn our a huge amount of builds at such high quality - the mind boggles!

Thanks for your words though - much appreciated. I do think I've found a good place to hang out.

[A_J_Rimmer]

Oh and some progress last night - which having spent a day chatting to you lot I really enjoyed. I've got most of the turret built up, just some handles, the cupola (now I know which one should be fitted) and the .50 cal to be added. I can see why people invest in turned metal barrels though, I did my best with the kit one but I do have some clean up to do (must also remember to drill out the coax and the ... co-driver's gun?)

[A_J_Rimmer]

Can anyone tell me what the pole thing is sticking up behind the loaders hatch? Is it a antenna base or is it some form of range finder or scope?

[Lee Drennen]

pole thing

I believe it’s antenna base. The build is looking great. I’m sure Jakko will stop by and confirm it for sure he’s one of the experts on Sherman’s here.

[A_J_Rimmer]

Can anyone tell me what the pole thing is sticking up behind the loaders hatch? Is it a antenna base or is it some form of range finder or scope?

Ignore me - it's the antenna base isn't it - I've seen it on other builds...

[Guest]

Very good progress so far!