1/35 scale FDCV - Fire Direction Center Vehicle Hellenic Army

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CHAPTER V - Main model building & detailing

Following the simple assembly instructions, I placed each polyester item on place using two-component cyanoacrylate glue for best results. The model parts are molded in such way that no putty is needed to fill any gaps - just cut the polyester from part’s tree and glue it on spot.

Checking the parts carefully, I found that the the items dimensions (including thickness) was extremely accurate on scale. As you can see, by checking the following pictures, some polyester parts of the model is so thin, you can actually see in through them. That specific feature makes the model very realistic and accurate on scale, but special attention is needed while handling the polyester parts, as it is quite possible to break.

The driver’s hatch release handle, have been detailed according the diagrams found into FDCV’s TM - Technical Manual. I glued it in "CLOSED" position.

As soon as all the details, hatch covers, handles, fuel canisters etc were fit & glued on FDCV, I spray a primer light layer over the model to prepare for painting process and highlight any deficiencies that had escaped my attention so far.

I used ordinary gauze cloth, taken from the first aid kit, cut it to shape and place it on FDCV upper surface, to simulate the camouflage net. Water based white glue for wood, which becomes transparent when it dries, is just the right for the job. So, I opened a 500 grams canister bought for 2€ only, pick a small quantity, add just few drops of water with a syringe into a small metal container to make the right mixture and finally I formed the gauze net with a wet brush, into the desired shape. Because the mixture is enriched with water based glue, the gauze net becomes hard when the water dries.

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CHAPTER VI - Applying paint, wash & weather effects

The first FDCVs, received by Hellenic Army and entered active duty, on 1986. Until 1990, more than 20 vehicles were in Greek service. They were painted with the CARC - Chemical Agent Resistant Coating. This paint is specially formulated to reduce the vehicle's IR image reflection. When the FDCVs were received by the Hellenic Army and by the mid-1990s, did not have national markings on the side of the vehicle. What I'll try to display, is an FDCV scale model as they appeared during the early 90ies period, few years after first entrance in service. The following two pictures, kindly given by Mr. Christos Simitsis / White Tower Models, show an FDCV as presented during the October 28th 1990 National military parade in Thessaloniki, Greece.

The scale model carefully washed with liquid soap and warm water to disappear leaving oil traces, fingertips etc. As long as the model was already light gray primed, using free hand airbrushing, enamel black paint preshading lines across the panel lines & details.

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I believe that the basic CARC FS34079 “Leaf Green” colour, can be simulated with the Humbrol's H116 or Gunze Sangyo's GSH309. Because I had something different in mind and I was hoping to present more than one color tones on model's surface, I tried the FS34094 "Bronze Green" which is available by Life Color as UA303 acrylic and also got the UA706 and UA210 by Life Color too, for the basic CARC color fading and darkening mixtures.

Using the SLC - Scale Lighting effect Calculator program, I placed as basic colour the FS34079 (RGB code 62x68x54) and set parameters such as 1/35 scale, appearance of model’s surface in a scale from a “new - just painted” level to “old - paints are fade” level, according to what I had in mind, etc. The program, draw results (for example RGB code 84x90x77 which is close to FS34094) as suggested 13% scale lighting paint for the model, considering the scale effect and the mid-weathered appearance I set as data. Offcourse, the high lighted or intentional faded areas, will be enlighted more, using sand tones.

Here is the way of US M-992 FAASVs are painted, as presented into US Army's TB 43-0209 (pages 252 & 253) and TM 9-2350-267-10 Technical Manuals. As noted before, the Hellenic Army's FDCVs are not 3-tones camouflaged - they are painted with one colour only (FS34079 “Leaf Green”) known as CARC - Chemical Agent Resistant Coating, specially formulated to reduce the vehicle's IR image reflection.

From CARC paint manufacturer's brochure (page 5) found in HERE it is clear that "…MilSpray CARC touchup, creates no IR image…".

Also, in page 2 you can read: "...Key to survivability in combat is avoidance of enemy detection systems and IR homing weapons. CARC coated vehicles and equipment have signature-reduction properties that diminish the effectiveness of existing and emerging enemy detection and targeting systems. While infrared reflectivity is one element of signature-reduction, other characteristics and their particulars are considered classified information. Infrared Signature (IR) management is one of the least understood, yet most important attributes of the CARC camouflage system. Each of the colors in the camouflage system contains a special pigment package that camouflages vehicles and equipment when they are in their intended theater of operation. As an example, the 383 green color in the camouflage pattern, has an IR signature equal, or less than, that of chlorophyll. When viewed in IR, the vehicle will blend in with the wooded environment and will not create an IR signature that could be used by enemy weapons systems having IR homing technology. IR homing weapons systems can be found in MANPADs and many shoulder fired missiles…".

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The first base very diluted acrylic color was sprayed with no problem as a light layer and let dry overnight. As seen on the pictures, the black enamel preshading lines, are visible under the first applied color setting a base for the weathering process.

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As soon as the previous very diluted Life Color acrylic paint layer dried, a second (very diluted also) and later a third FS34094 "Bronze Green" (aka Life Color UA303) acrylic layer sprayed over, so the final result will become dark enough, that can be considered as into a realistic tonality & lighting color range, while the black enamel preshading lines, are still visible under the applied color layers. Minor corrections were made in 1-2 spots with a fine brush. The result was sprayed with Humbrol enamel gloss varnish coat, to prepare the surface for water transfered decals applying and washing. Once satisfied with the result, the model was sprayed with Humbrol enamel matt coat, to seal the paint, the water transfered decals and the washing results.

Keep in mind that this FDCV scale model, represents a vehicle as it was during the early ‘90ies period, when no national markings were paint on the vehicle’s side. Also, keep in mind, that during this specific period, the bronze plaque in honor of St. Barbara, which in the manners, customs and traditions of the Hellenic Army protects the Artillery, was not installed yet!

The WIP steps may be slow, but I prefer steady progress rather than hastily. After the Humbrol enamel matt coat dried, I had to add selectively some weather, rust & dust effects.

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CHAPTER VII - Display base & grass

I found nice idea to place it on a display base, simulating a field area covered with grass. From my local store, I bought a 20x30cm polished wooden picture frame.

I add some grams of plaster powder and few drops of water with a syringe into a soft rubber cup to make the right mixture. Materials like plaster, start as a dry powder that is mixed with water to form a paste which liberates heat and then hardens. Unlike mortar and cement, plaster remains quite soft after drying and this characteristic make plaster suitable for the job. Keep in mind that adding salt into wet plaster mixture, reduce the plaster's hardening time and adding vinegar into wet plaster mixture, extend the plaster's hardening time. When the first layer of thinned plaster applied on the picture frame, a glass were pushed against the plaster to form a flat basic strong cast.

I left it few hours to get harden in order to be sure that the cast wouldn't break when I would try to cut it into desired shape. Meanwhile, I took the soft rubber cup which I used to make the plaster mixture, squized it to break the last hardened plaster left inside, so it would be easier for me to clean it afterwards and prepare it for any future mix. That's the reason this soft rubber cup were used for.

Before the plaster cast got harden, I formed the field area into the desired shape to be suitable for the FDCV scale model. I used my airbrush to paint it. After the polished wooden frame was covered with masking tape, different acrylic paint layers were applied on the plaster surface. First, mat black colour covered the area and then a dark and light earth colours, spraying from different directions and angles. Later, the field was drybrushed on selected areas using sand tones.

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As for he grass & plants, I used three different ways:

• From my local hobby shop, I got different colours of static grass, empty them into a plastic box and make a mixture.
  

• Found into my garden perimeter, I collect few natural stuff, cut and placed into plastic box for such use.
  

• From my local super market, I got a small wicker broom. If you look closely, you’ll find some very interesting stuff for scale modeling use and dioramas building.
  

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Water based white glue for wood, which becomes transparent when it dries, is just the right for the job. So, I opened a 500 grams canister bought for 2€ only, pick a small quantity, add just few drops of water with a syringe into a small metal container to make the right mixture and finally I applied on the desired areas to be filled with grass & plants, using a wet brush. Because the mixture is enriched with water based glue, it is easy to correct possible mistakes.

Finally, the FDCV scale model glued on the base with silicon. Final details were added. The antenna masts, the Browning M-2HB 0.50" 12.7x99mm NATO machinegun, some extra dust weathering effect, etc.

[Guest]

CHAPTER VIII - Epilogue

Considering that I am an aircraft scale modeler with no experience on tracked scale models, I have to say that I really enjoyed this FDCV building - no, I am not planing to build another AFV for the following 20-30 years. As for this polyester kit, I must admit it was much easier than expected.

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[Guest]

I also tried black paper background (instead of white) & different light conditions and I was surprised on how the model looks like. From now on, black background and low level lighting only...

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Thank you for following this thread and I hope you enjoyed reading this article. I hope I’ll meet all of you, right after the summer holidays on Amorgos island, where the “Big Blue” Aegean dolphins are living and having fun. Click on the first picture for video.

Regards,

Nick

[Guest]

Another masterpiece Nick, you really are superb at researching, building and finishing these superb models. Always a pleasure to see them and this is certainly no exception, just superb.

[Ian M]

It does make a big differance. Have you tried useing a neutral grey back ground? A 50% grey mesure the light off the grey back ground and take the picture with those settings. Se what you think.