Andy, i've only built two before this, a spitfire for the non gb and a lcvp that i co**ed up because the resin froze while setting in my shed, so your way in front of me, will be learning together on these beauties. Still look at a lot of the pieces on this site and am awestruck at the quality of work and hope to get there one day.
Heng Long Tiger 1 rebuild
Collapse
This topic is closed.
X
X
-
Guest
-
Guest
I will start on my tiger tomorrow, i will be following yout thread to dismantle her. Im still a little iffy about using an airbursh though.
AndyComment
-
Guest
Well its out of the box and on the work bench, soon be hacking away at it with the Dremel lol.
AndyComment
-
Guest
Lots of pictures please Andy, are you keeping it as early model or converting it to a later one?Comment
-
Guest
Hi Darren, pics tomorrow, forgot to take my camera into the work shop. I have had the dremel going and the flat blade chisle, scarey stuff mate. I dont really know what im doing here so i think ill stick to the early model. I did buy the cuplar for it from tank zone but it looks a lot different to the one that is already on the tank, all the other hatches i brought look identical. Just a quick question. The driver and front gunner hatches that you fitted... how did you secure the hinges underneath? did you possibly use epoxy resin 5 min or something else.Comment
-
Guest
Evening Andy, is the cupolar you bought for a later tiger, the hatch swings out horizontally to the side? The drive and gunner hatches had locating pegs on the underside of the upper hull so a dab of superglue was enough to hold them. I know what you mean about being scary, was unsure when i started making holes in the hull but it all comes good in the end.Comment
-
Guest
Yes Darren that the cupolar you are describing, i dont think it looks as good as the one already fitted. I got all my stuff from Welsh Dragons and not Tank Zone as i previously mentioned, sorry my mistake.
Can i ask, what filler do you use, it looks very fine and very good, also what did you use to get such a good level finish?
Cheers
AndyComment
-
Hi Darren
Have you ordered anything through Tank Zone yet? I've been trying to contact them and they seem a bit flaky - could be just Xmas holiday backlog but I'm getting no replies.
Any info would be good - also tried to order from Wecohe in Germany but they're just as bad. I'm after the metal late Tiger 1 wheels and the suspension upgrade.
Cheers
PaulComment
-
Guest
Morning Paul, haven't tried Tankzone yet, i've always used Welsh Dragons and have been very impressed with their service so will stick with them in the future when i decide to upgrade further.
Andy, used a small flexible chisel looking blade in my craft knife then when down about level with the base, rubbed down with 240 wet and dry then 800 using a small wooden block if space allowed.
I'll get in the shed tonight and have a look at the name of the filler, i bought it at the local Modelzone and is white but i can't remember the name.Comment
-
Guest
Sorry Andy, only just got in the shed, the filler is squadron white putty, i've never used it before but very impressedComment
-
Guest
I see, I have tried squarden white putty and i can confirm that it isnt a patch on the green. The green sands finer and it doesnt show through the primer when it is sprayed, I never use white now even though i still have a couple of tubes unopend.
AndyComment
-
Guest
Oh right, never heard of the stuff until i started modeling, they only had the white one on the shelf so didn't think anything more about it. Will have a look out for the green but the white will do me for now.Comment
-
I'm Confused here. White squadron id the fine one and Green, er? not as fine to fine to call course anyway. I normally start with the green for larger gaps and dents, then after that move on to the white for the thinner 'repairs'. I must have a couple of fiffy tubes!
I must also confess that I've been using the Humbrol stuff quite a bit and that to is great once you get used to it. It Don't half dry quick! I often mix it thinner with liquid poly and use it like typo or tipex or what ever the heck you call it. (Kvejeblæk in Denmark = idiot ink. lol ).
Good to see you got going Andy.
Ian MComment
-
Guest
Hi Ian,
Thanks, i thought it was about time i made a start. I have used the white on my large scale planes as you can see from the threads. I soon changed it though as the green is much better and sands easier to. You will see from the B25 and the P47 that all my panel lines are made by using the green. The P47 shows some in white, after i found that you couldnt smooth and fade it in as good as the green, i changed and have never move back.
AndyComment
-
Guest
Comment