1/16 Centurion Tank in Paper

[Guest]

Just had a dabble on timterweb and it seems the main colour in WW2 for interior was white (as you say it seems reasonable that it will have been the cheapest option)

since 1960 (ish) it seems both white and silver (aluminium) interiors are mentioned being used.

Don't know if that will help any ?

On your models .... absolutly brilliant, such attention to detail that i would have thought difficult to do in paper/card.

Hope to see more of your work and maybe a "work in progress" thread to show us how it's done

One thing though ... A4 is used in all countries worldwide (as the ISO std) apart from Canada and US, and we have the Germans to thank for establishing this paper size (DIN A4)

a few other countries still tend to use "US letter" even though they've adopted the ISO std (Mexico and Phillipines to name two)

[Guest]

stop it! A4 is silly...we all know that...even my printer spits it out!

..........

white it is then!!

I preferred white anyway. lol

.........

and, after doing some measurements, it seems that 1/16 might be the choice.

Its a little bigger than I had planned, but 1/25 is too small.

[Guest]

okay, I'm changing my mind again! LOL

This is what I do.

This is the whole point in the beginning...Its all about coming up with a design and assembly method

as well as actually designing the model parts. I have to think about things like "who will buy it?", "will

the parts fit on to standard page sizes?", "what will be the skill level?" and of course "what scale size

makes sense?"

In this case, I really wanted to design and build a BIG model.

1/18 was the original choice, but unlike my unique Armoured Car model, it might not be as well accepted.

So the standard 1/16 seems like the only option...except I am running into a number of issues.

First is the part size and the fact that NOTHING of the central Hull (inner structure and outer 'skins")

fits on a standard page without splitting into multiple parts.

There will obviously be other parts that may have this same issue.

Then theres the thickness of panels and parts. Not everything can be proper scale thickness and doesn't

need to be. But somethings have to be scaled up in thickness for strength and rigidity and some parts

need the illusion of scale thickness and require layers or internal structure. Cutting card and laminating to

2-3-4mm thickness can be a real pain!

And then theres the overall size.

I wanted BIG, but this model will be 2 foot long with Gun barrel!...maybe more?

That might really limit sales of the kit to a select few large scale builders.

Anyway...sorry to be so long winded about this...I have done a complete turnaround and downscaled my

design to 1/25 scale. And I think thats where it should stay (lol)

At 1/25 scale, the Centurion will be about 12" long...add another 4" for barrel?

But most importantly, Hull sides and other large parts fit completely on one standard sheet (Letter or A4)

and that makes a big difference.

End of rant...for now.

Note to Moderator...maybe you could change the title of this thread for me, please?

Just remove the scale size and lets call it "Centurion Tank in Paper"...thanks

[Guest]

I told ya....

this is not only a long term project, but my usual routine is flip-flop all over the place at first!

Its all about establishing that plan of attack and before I get too far, work out the basics.

In this case, the scale has change AGAIN!

I posted the prelim work (so far) on my two paper modeling forums and the resounding response

has been in favour of a BIG scale model. Almost everyone is asking for 1/16 scale.

So (LOL) the project has changed once again to 1/16 scale.

This also means I have to redraw all the work I've done so far, to compensate for card thicknesses.

At this stage its not just a case of rescaling the drawing.

Regardless of the overall scale, the card and paper that I will use has a set thickness,

so other than laminated thicknesses, I have to apply these measures into the model drawing.

Anyway...next update will hopefully be another sub-frame test build at 1/16.

But in the meantime I have half a dozen P-51 Mustang kits to finish and get to the store.

[Guest]

Wow...was the site updated while I was away?

Looks different.

A quick update to the Centurion project.

A slight detour with some Aircraft kits...but i will soon be back at the design table

for the Centurion...in 1/16 scale as I mentioned last time.

Seems I may be tasked to build a 1/6 scale version of the WW1 Canadian Armored Car.

A Museum looking for a display piece.

It will definitely interfere with Centurion test building...which will slow down the design process.

Regardless, the Centurion must get done this year!

[Guest]

For those interested, the Centurion is still getting worked on...very slowly...LOL...but at least it hasn't been completely forgotten!

Still trying to sort out the basics of the Main Hull assembly.

Once I get the supporting structure figured out the rest will start to fall in place.

Stay tuned.

[Guest]

End of March 1/16 scale Centurion Update

Well, its been a while (with this project), but just to prove it has not fallen by the wayside...

I ran up against a few issues with my first Hull form.

The central Hull being the the main part from which everything is attached, turned out to be

a bigger obstacle than I had envisioned Buried under a lot of tank "bits" it is deceptively

complicated and has a very particular shape with many compound angles which proved to

be a challenge to design as a paper model.

While it would have been possible to cheat with a smaller scale model and make the Hull more

boxed shape, at this scale I have to be faithful to the actual shapes and angles involved.

For example, the main chassis/hull has angled sides making the belly plate only about 70% as

wide as the top plates. (This is of course to deflect incoming fire down toward the ground)

The nose and Tail have multiple angles as well...setting up some interesting compund angles with

the side plates.

None of this is too difficult, until you try to design an inner form using thicker card, in as few pieces as

possible, that can be easily understood ny the builder...

and an outer "skin" that matches the contours and angles PLUS fits over the formers with just the right

amount of tolerance.

And of course, there has to be a workable assembly method for all this.

Complicate all this with my flip-flopping on the final scale size.

Anyway, the point is...I went through a number of Hull designs...printed parts...and wasted cardstock...

before finally arriving at what looks like a workable Hull!

This design has the fewest parts so far, and I took the suggestion of using a tab-slot assembly method

for the Former parts. (sorry, I forget who actually made the suggestion, but thanks)

The "tabs" are small...even at this scale...but not difficult to deal with.

However, the final assembly requires a little sanding of the tabs as they stick through the side plates.

So, with a new Hull former design, I was able to modify all the "skin" parts to fit and add the remaining

design elements (tabs, slots, cuts, folds, etc).

And I ran through a quick test of all the "skin parts, making sure everything fits the Hull.

(and figuring out all the adjustments and necessary fixes)



And...everything went together properly so I finished up the textures and colouring on the actual parts

Next step is to build what hopefully will be a final Hull assembly.

(I've already started work on Suspension parts, so it better be!)

But, before I do that, I need to sort out the Driver's compartment and Engine compartments.

These will be tubs that are inserted into the Former assembly.

They can be assembled separately and don't rely on any other assembly.

But, they will need to be fitted into the Hull former before the outer skins go on.

I have the Driver's "insert" almost done...just got to add the foot pedals and hand controls,

and a few more small detail elements.

But it will be an awkward squeeze to get in in, since I already sealed up the top of the

Former assembly! (yes it really needs to drop in from the top!)

The Driver's compartment might seem a little pointless (and it is completely optional for the

builder) since the only viewing of this area will be from a very small access port above the cockpit.

But its there in case you want to install it.

[Guest]

Looking good.

I`m really into this.

Malc.

[Guest]

April 9 Centurion update...Hull skins are attached!!

Heres what I finally got down over the last week...

in anticipation of attaching the skins to the Hull former, I need to sort out some of the

"interior" parts, just in case any overwrap of the skins interfered with installation.

I also didn't want to risk damage to the skins, so I think this will be the recommended

assembly method...to install most, if not all of the interior parts before attaching the Hull skin.

A few shots of various stages of the progress.

You may notice some part changes...

I didn't photograph everything, but some parts got many redesigns before arriving at the final designs.

First couple of shots show the installation of the Engine compartment "tub" and the early versions

of the Fuel Tanks and Air Cleaner housings.

I decided to drop the rear (Transmission) compartment tub and simplify the Differential and Transmission

assembly...but first I needed to get the cooling fans in place.

As I mentioned, the Transmission/Differential has been somewhat simplified for assembly and

installation...partly because I like to appeal to less experienced builders,

and partly because its a well hidden part.

I also had a problem related to my Former design...the center longitudinal rib is in the way of

a full drive train (drive shaft, clutch, couplings, etc).

I made the decision to stick with the bulky major components in the Transmission and Engine bays

and leave any more detailing up to the builder.

So, next is the installation of the radiators and cooling system.

This involves swiveling Radiators that reveal the transmission and cooling fan areas.

My original design had some fairly complicated plumbing which caused me a lot of troubles during

assembly, so I opted for an artistically modified Coolant reservoir which simplifies the plumbing and

swivel mechanism for the Radiators.

(Keep in mind, there is still a framework to go over top of everything that will support all the Engine

Bay covers and upper deck components.)

and, as you can see, I have attached the Hull 'skins".

Other than some edge colouring, before and after the installation,

and a little trimming...

all went together quite nicely.

I haven't sealed up the top deck yet...I want to install the front hatch parts first.

[Guest]

almost forgot...

I also got the front Glacis plate installed to complete the Hull form.

(A little rushed - I definitely could have done a better installation. I was trying to get a photo

real quick and I rushed the assembly. But a lot of it is hidden by the side skirts anyway...)

And now I am working on the Engine...

the front hatch will have to wait now, until I get the engine and its components done.

[Guest]

This gets better.

Love it.

Malc

[Guest]

Centurion April 14 update...

So...I've got a few small tweaks and changes to make...

some minor adjustments...

but I think I've got the Engine components all done!

Engine bay is filled with Motor, Generator, Pulleys,

Fuel Tanks, Air Cleaners, Oil Tank,

Cooling Fan intakes and Intercooler.

Only thing I left out was the turbochargers since room is tight

and they are completely hidden anyway.

(Same reason I didn't bother with the hidden Exhaust pipes)

Rear compartment contains the Differential/Transmission, Brake Discs,

swivelling Radiators, Cooling Fans and cooling deflectors.

(as I showed in earlier photos)



Also got the Driver's compartment hatches finished.

Once again, got a couple of adjustments to make to allow them to open and close easier.

Obviously you can install them closed, open or somewhere in between...but if you want

them to be hinged, they can be.

My Hinge design is very simple and relies on paper folding - but the builder could modify

it to be a real hinge. I've seen some pretty creative hinge builds!

The Viewing Periscopes are represented and they do swivel within the Hatches.

(They are one of things I have to tweak...mine (shown) are a little oversize, and they

interfere with the Hatches opening and closing.)

...

Now, its on to the Engine compartment Covers.

I have to design the supporting framework which will complete the two rear bays.

And design the hinged Engine covers that will seal up the rear of the Hull.

Centurions!....march!!

[Guest]

April 22 - Latest update!

Work continues...slowly...but surely.

I am actually still enjoying myself! lol

With the rear compartments finished...

and the Instruction pages completed (up to this point),

I am ready to tackle the "covers" for the engine and transmission bays.

The covers them selves are not too much of an issue...there is a front (engine) cover

that has slots - staggered air inlets, and it is connected to the rear (transmission) cover

which is solid plates carrying some venting baffles over the radiators.

These two covers are connected in the middle by a row of "hinges".

My original plan was to make the covers with working hinges, but this turned out to be

a bit of nightmare.

First off, even at 1/16 scale, all the little plates that make up each hinge, are quite small.

And there are many, many to cut out.

There are ten Hinges...each with 5 plates...and each plate has two parts...and then laminated multiple times.

I made my first mistake, by not drilling out the hinge pin holes before I had cut out the parts.

Second problem is that each small plate still has to be a certain scale thickness. And this creates

a very visible layered paper/card edge. Colouring did not help much. And the plates are not thick

enough to consider a 3D part...unless you like assembling extremely small parts with a microscope?

Eventually I gave up on these parts.

I have always tried to design my kits with the "beginner" in mind. I would rather simplify a part

for a better build, than leave it complicated for only an "expert" to handle.

So, I went back to the computer and came up with a simulated hinge part that doesn't actually

function, but assembles a lot easier.

I think the finished look is acceptable...and to be honest, I think I prefer the one piece cover assembly

which you can still lift off the two covers (as one assembly) to view the rear compartments.

So now, there are ten individual parts to assemble to make the ten hinges.

A few small fold and tabs, but with a pair of tweezers, I eventually got them done.

Covers went together with only a couple of minor tweaks.

(You can see all the finished hinge parts in the second picture below, ready to connect the two Covers)

Once assembled, and dropped into place on the Hull, it actually starts looking like what its supposed to!!

I only wish I had remembered to do some back side colouring on the cover parts...but i was so focused on

getting the fit and assembly, I didn't think about what might be visible within the vented cover.

I'm just finishing up the supporting cross members and side brackets (for the covers) which when installed

with give the covers a flush fit to the sides of the Hull.

The recessed and snug fit of the covers within the Hull sides means there will be no need for any sort of

attachment.

[Guest]

...follow-up update

New cross brace and side support brackets in place.

Pretty simple really...no need for anything complicated here.

And the covers drop in nice and snug, and very solid.

Other than some surface attachments, I think the Hull is complete.

Next step will be suspension and drive components.

and, to give you some sense of the overall size...so far...

(Willie is 1/18 scale, about 14" long...Centurion Hull is 1/16, and 18" long )

[Guest]

Centurion Tank work has been shelved for a couple of weeks now.

A few other things going on in life...

and I wanted to finish up the re-work of an older model.

My 1-33 Spitfire kit was in need of some updates, a redraw, and some modifications.

And recently a request came through the paper modeling forum for a particular Spit

and that was the incentive I needed to get the Spitfire work done!

Just released, a Spitfire Mk.IXe Beer Truck!

I'll be getting back to the Centurion real soon.

Keep watching!