Centurion MkIII - Tamiya 1/25

[flyjoe180]

Nice work Graham

[Guest]

this is really fantastic stuff

great job so far

Roman

[Guest]

Very nice work Graham & as must be expected very nice clear photos.

Not produced an military vehicles yet but have 4 lined up for next on the list. Therefore nice to watch this one being built.

Like the fade from light grey to very light grey background Graham which gives a superb back drop to show of the subject. Did you manage that with lighting ?

Laurie

[Vaughan]

Great build so far Graham. When you say welded do you mean CA or Poly cement? Also I presume your using Flory Models clay wash?

[Guest]

Very nice work Graham & as must be expected very nice clear photos.Not produced an military vehicles yet but have 4 lined up for next on the list. Therefore nice to watch this one being built.

Like the fade from light grey to very light grey background Graham which gives a superb back drop to show of the subject. Did you manage that with lighting ?

Laurie

Thanks Laurie

With a lot of my commercial work, I will use a large overhead softbox tilted to give a graduated background as you have suggested.

I have to admit, for a lot of my model build shots I'm a little lazy. I use a grad black/white vinyl roll. I use 2 radio triggered flash guns which are pointed at the ceiling for a good soft bounced light. I use a Canon G12 compact camera as the small sensor gives a large depth of field, and the quality is fine for the small web pics. The images are colour corrected and edited with Adobe Lightroom 5.2

[Guest]

Great build so far Graham. When you say welded do you mean CA or Poly cement? Also I presume your using Flory Models clay wash?

Thanks Vaughan.

I use mostly Tamiya extra thin run into the joints. Gator Glue/Crystal clear is used as needed and often for temporary holding of parts for airbrushing.

I use a selection of Flory Models washes, blended as needed for lighter or darker effects depending on the area being washed.

[Guest]

Thanks LaurieWith a lot of my commercial work, I will use a large overhead softbox tilted to give a graduated background as you have suggested.

I have to admit, for a lot of my model build shots I'm a little lazy. I use a grad black/white vinyl roll. I use 2 radio triggered flash guns which are pointed at the ceiling for a good soft bounced light. I use a Canon G12 compact camera as the small sensor gives a large depth of field, and the quality is fine for the small web pics. The images are colour corrected and edited with Adobe Lightroom 5.2

I am jealous Graham. Used 3 soft boxes with my video work & one for model work. Gave up video work this year & gave away the boxes to a young chap just starting out so just flash work in general. On what I consider important just trying ambient light tri pod & long exposure.

Laurie

[Guest]

A quick update for you all.

The interior of the turret is now complete. The main issue was poorly fitting turret halves which necessitated a bit of filling with Vallejo white filler and some sanding.

A couple of points of interest - The radio pack face was sprayed with buffable Dark Iron and when dry, I rubbed my finger over it to shine the protrusions. The white dials and small needles were painted and and then a drop of Krystal Clear added, which when dry gave me a nice glass face effect.

[Alan 45]

This is looking brilliant , you've done a great job of that interior

I'm going to keep an eye out for this

[Guest]

Nice work Graham. Like the radio bits. Just about to attempt the dash on the helicopter I am building so with your permission (or noto_O) I am going to copy.

Very pro. job.

Laurie

[Guest]

I have now completed the turret.

It was airbrushed with a base coat of Vallejo grey primer. A graded coat of dark brown was added to the shadow areas underneath with a gradual fade to the grey undercoat at the top highlight areas.

A preshade of matt black was then applied around all of the edges and join lines. Heavily thinned dark yellow was then sprayed in 4 applications to build up the effect that I wanted. Once dried I brush washed the whole thing with a 'grime' clay wash and removed it in such a way to allow it to sit in the recesses and leave some dirt streaking. Chipping was then applied by hand using a teeny weeny (technical term) brush and some dark iron paint.

The track pieces were airbrushed with buffable dark iron and when dry, the high spots were buffed. Rust pigment was brushed into the crevises (Ooo-err Missus)

The cable on the cable drum is just weathered fuse wire wrapped around.

The whole lot was then dry brushed with Tamiya weathering light sand to highlight the edges.

Coats of matt varnish were applied in different amounts to different areas to give a variation in 'Mattness' (I'm sure that's not a real word)

I made some camo netting to scale and coloured it in desert shades. The retaining straps were made of lead wire which I rolled flat with a bottle of tamiya XF-1 and then shaped the straps around the netting and barrel. They were glued at the bottom with Gator Glue and painted in Dark Yellow. I think this adds a touch more realisms to the stark barrel.

Comments welcome.....

[Guest]

Im-pres-si-ve

This is the state of the art.

Francesco

[papa 695]

That is very impressive work Graham

[Guest]

Bloody hell Graham, that outstanding paintwork!

Photography ain't too bad either .... You could do that for a living if you got a bit better he he he

[Ian M]

I do like that a lot.

Great work Graham.

Ian M