1:35 Dragon 6287 88mm Flak 37 (build version: 37, transport, extended shield)

[Ian M]

This does look to be a nice kit. Being very well built I must add!

[Gauge1TrainsDK]

Thanks, guys! I definitely appreciate the encouragement.

More to follow below!

[Gauge1TrainsDK]

Side legs, folded up for transport mode. No problems here, except more worries sbout having a visible seam, since the side legs will be standing straight up and probably be very visible...

[Gauge1TrainsDK]

Lego Dragon ;-) Something I think this company does very consistently is making pieces which fit into each other in one way only, making the risk of error quite low. This is a very simple method, and yet I feel other companies do not practice this the wholehearted way Dragon does it. Weighs up the sometimes unclear instructions this company is also known for.

[Gauge1TrainsDK]

The support, with lots of details, yet simple to just build up one step at a time - definitely enjoyable to work with.

[Gauge1TrainsDK]

The finished gun itself, awaiting its wheels - this is a beautiful kit, and has been a pleasure to build so far :-)

[Guest]

Side legs, folded up for transport mode. No problems here, except more worries sbout having a visible seam, since the side legs will be standing straight up and probably be very visible...

There wasn’t a seam there on the real gun, a quick look at some photos tells me, and those parts look like they have a very obvious one, yes. My suggestion would be to get the filler out

[JR]

Beautiful build Christian, bit completely beyond me looking as those instructions.
Did cheer me up to read that some parts will only fit the right way. !

[Gauge1TrainsDK]

There wasn’t a seam there on the real gun, a quick look at some photos tells me, and those parts look like they have a very obvious one, yes. My suggestion would be to get the filler out :smiling3:

I am actually crap with filler - I have only used Vallejo Plastic Putty so far, and I am just not good at it. It usually just scrapes right off, even the next day. I am a bit uneasy with what to do about that. I do not use oil-based products or the like.

[Gauge1TrainsDK]

Beautiful build Christian, bit completely beyond me looking as those instructions.
Did cheer me up to read that some parts will only fit the right way. !

Thanks! Yeah, Dragon is really good like that.

[Guest]

I am actually crap with filler - I have only used Vallejo Plastic Putty so far, and I am just not good at it. It usually just scrapes right off, even the next day. I am a bit uneasy with what to do about that. I do not use oil-based products or the like.

I've had exactly the same issues with the Vallejo one. I try and avoid using it whenever I can, although it's handy if you just want to pop it in, smooth out with a damp cotton bud, and never have to go near it with sandpaper!

I much prefer either an automotive solvent acrylic putty (Lechler Spat-O-Rapid), or Mr White Putty where a decent amount of filling is required. Really small gaps and seams get a coat or two of Mr Surfacer 500, which is more like a thick primer that can be brushed on.

[minitnkr]

I use Squadron green putty w/good results. It helps to smooth w/a damp finger tip, but takes sanding well. PaulE

[Gauge1TrainsDK]

The tips are appreciated. I will try and see if maybe I can find some of these products and give them a go. Filler is a rather important tool!

[JR]

I agree Christian, not seeing it has been done is the secret, if you find out please let me know.
I'm like Andy, I've started to use Mr Surfacer 500, esp on figures where the slightest amount can be needed and everything else seems far to thick .

[Ian M]

Re the Vallejo putty, I find that the only way to have reasonable success on large flat places is to very lightly sand the surface befor applying the filler and sometimes applying it in two or three coats each one smoothed over a bit befor the next. I use it mainly for small cracks and seams. Call me old fashioned but I still use Humbrol's grey toothpaste of doom- yes it smells, but i thin it with cellulose anyway. When fully cured the stuff sands up very well and can be hard to find if the kit is in the same colour Plastic. lol.

Looking at the shape the beams have I would imagine there are welds. Where they are though? No idea.