1:35 Dragon 6287 88mm Flak 37 (build version: 37, transport, extended shield)

[Gauge1TrainsDK]

These next pictures show attaching the chain piece to the wheel set. Now, this part was an example of reality seemingly not matching the instructions, which is otherwise not something which has plagued this Dragon build.

The problem was that the plastic holder on the actual piece to hold the chain is way too wide to accomodate the chain piece, and it is definitely not clear how to do this in the way Dragon imagined.

There are two wheel sets, so on the first I cut off the way too wide plastic holder, attached a piece of thin white strip (can also be seen in picture two in the post above), then placed the chain on that. It worked. On the second wheel set, I believe I placed the top chain piece on top of the "way too wide plastic holder", then glued it on there. The instructions did not guide me well on this particular part of the build, but for this one, this has been an exception.

Another issue with this particular step, as I remember, is the "way too wide plastic holder", on which you put piece F34 (the other half of the round box covering the chain) could not be contained within piece F34. Maybe, my memory is unclear on this, I am afraid. Sorry.

[Gauge1TrainsDK]

From the above, I am afraid I just focused on completing the pre-paint build, and did not take pictures of the few remaining steps in between.

Below are pictures of the finished pieces - I was pretty proud and happy with this, and still am!

At this point, the gun still had elevation functionality.

For some reason, the instructions tell you to leave piece B13 (from step 1, cover piece on the barrel itself, which you can see halfway on the barrel) unglued, which made no sense after completing the build. So, I glued it before painting. No problem has occured on that score.

[Gauge1TrainsDK]

Here are the last pictures for now, taken after spray painting, using Army Painter Desert Yellow. Looking over the model, I think you definitely have to spray in a careful way to avoid paint pools covering up details. Better to do several passes, if you must.

As mentioned above, the gun is now awaiting post-paint assembly, before the camo and weathering takes place.

Unfortunately, the paint clogged up the elevation mechanism, and in my effort to unclog, I accidentally broke off one of the tabs, so it will have to be glued into place. Sucks a bit, but it's not like I was going to spend a lot of time elevating my Flak 37 anyway.

I can't wait to see this finished, standing on a flatbed car!

[Mini Me]

Looking forward to seeing more on this one. Rick H.

[scottie3158]

Coming together nicely.

[minitnkr]

A beauty. PaulE

[rtfoe]

Nice so far Christian. Did you use a rattle can or an airbrush for the spray painting because airbrushing seldom clogs working parts if painted in thin coats. Anyway an anti-aircraft gun would look comfortable elevated for action.

Cheers,
Richard

[Gauge1TrainsDK]

Thanks, guys!

Richard, I used rattle can. I don't use an airbrush, which gives some challenges regarding camo paint.

[rtfoe]

I see...rattle cans can be a challenge for camo but if you know how to use tricks of masking you can get a decent camo pattern.

Cheers,
Richard

[Gauge1TrainsDK]

I plan on brushpainting the camo, which seems to leave out the option of having soft edges on the camo lines. A bit of a shame. Does anyone have good advice on this?

I have never tried masking for camopatterns, but maybe on some tanks (with few vulnerable surface details) this would make good sense and leave some possibility of soft edges.


Best regards

[Guest]

One way is to mask the model with a putty-type material that stays soft, leaving open the areas you want camouflaged, and use a spraying can. If you don’t press down the edges of the material tightly against the model, then you’ll get some overspray underneath that makes a somewhat feathered edge.

Or you can just brush-paint it. Not all German equipment was artfully spray-painted by their crews: especially when time and equipment was limited, they would use anything at hand to apply the paint, including brooms and rags.

[spanner570]

Christian, brush paint your first coat of camo.. Let the paint dry, then apply a second coat a fraction back from the first. Then, if required a third coat can be applied again slightly back from the previous coat.
This will leave a soft edge to the camouflage.

Ron

[Gauge1TrainsDK]

One way is to mask the model with a putty-type material that stays soft, leaving open the areas you want camouflaged, and use a spraying can. If you don’t press down the edges of the material tightly against the model, then you’ll get some overspray underneath that makes a somewhat feathered edge.

Or you can just brush-paint it. Not all German equipment was artfully spray-painted by their crews: especially when time and equipment was limited, they would use anything at hand to apply the paint, including brooms and rags.

Thanks, Jakko. I have seen an image of a Panzer IV painted with a broom, I think. It looked absolutely awful, and I don't think I would feel good trying to replicate that specific look.

However, the fact that not all camo was spraypainted on (as opposed to "all" models of those vehicles) I am attentive to, and I always save whatever images I believe to be of that variant.

The overspray technique might also be worth a try some time, though not for line camo.

[Gauge1TrainsDK]

Christian, brush paint your first coat of camo.. Let the paint dry, then apply a second coat a fraction back from the first. Then, if required a third coat can be applied again slightly back from the previous coat.
This will leave a soft edge to the camouflage.

Ron

This I will give a go, perhaps on the shield of this model.

[Steve Jones]

Wonderful little build Christian. Great to see it all coming together.