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Land-Wasser-Schlepper No. 1071

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  • Guest

    #16
    The rear of the superstructure sides has slots that need to be cut out for the turn indicators (at least, I assume that’s what they are). The kit provides for two locations these can be in, and looking at photos I determined 1071 had them in the rear position. The slots to be cut are clearly marked on the inside of the parts, but I decided to fill the ones I don’t need, in case they remain visible:

    [ATTACH]305019[/ATTACH]

    You don’t have to be overly neat and square in cutting the slots, as the indicators are long, narrow boxes that fit through the slots, so the cut edge won’t be visible on the finished model.

    Next the winch that sits in the middle of the cabin:

    [ATTACH]305020[/ATTACH]

    This is a little tricky to assemble, and as you can tell I replaced some of the parts by 0.5 mm plastic rod (11 mm long each) because I didn’t feel like cleaning up the bits provided in the kit. If you put the central axle with the middle plate onto one of the two side plates, you can fairly easily add the outer rods and line it all up, then add the second outer plate. The rest is simple enough, and results in the completed winch:

    [ATTACH]305021[/ATTACH]

    For the roof plate, I cut off the four large tabs that were on it, as the rear two can easily be seen through the large roof hatch, and the front ones through the windows:

    [ATTACH]305022[/ATTACH]

    Inside the hull, I had to scratchbuild one of the rifle rests because it went “pling” from my tweezers, and despite spending 15–20 minutes on my knees under my workbench looking for it with a flashlight, I couldn’t find it anymore I put it in the middle so it’ll be out of sight as much as possible.

    [ATTACH]305023[/ATTACH]

    Then the three walls and the floor around the rear entrance:

    [ATTACH]305024[/ATTACH]

    These fit very well, but the seams are also very obvious through the roof hatch, so needed filling. The same goes for the ejector marks on the inside face of the front wall, but I left those on the side walls alone because they’ll be almost impossible to see on the completed model.

    Comment

    • Guest

      #17
      Almost four years on, and a “shelf queen” group build on another forum has finally got me to want to finish this model

      It had stalled mainly because of a couple of pipes that are missing on the chimney, inside the cab, and because I want to leave the roof hatches open, they would be very visible so need to be added. I had already bent one from 1.6 mm brass rod, but for some reason hadn’t felt like tackling the other one. When figuring out how to do this, I soon decided that the chimney would need to be glued in first, because the pipes would otherwise be hard to align and probably pretty delicate. So, I put the chimney in place with glue, and added the cab (without glue) quickly before it dried so I could ensure it lined up correctly with the hole in the roof:

      [ATTACH]450969[/ATTACH]

      Once that had dried, I bent the second pipe and added both, plus the brackets for the taller one (the other seems to not have had any):

      [ATTACH]450970[/ATTACH]

      It still needs some bolts as well as a cable coming out the top of the tall pipe, also fixed with brackets, but my superglue has gone thick, and I don’t think I can fix those smaller bits with it, so I’ll need to buy some new first. As you can see in the photo, though, I also made a start with masking off the floor, so I can spray the interior walls later on:

      [ATTACH]450972[/ATTACH]

      Somewhat stupidly, I had already glued the levers etc. to the floor, so I’m now having to mask around them, which is a fiddly job requiring pointed tweezers and dental picks/sculpting tools.

      Also in the works are the tracks:

      [ATTACH]450971[/ATTACH]

      A fair amount of work to cut all the links loose, but it’s only three points per link and if you cut them right, you don’t need to do any more cleaning up on them, so not too bad. Oddly, they come in left and fight:

      [ATTACH]450973[/ATTACH]

      Comment

      • adt70hk
        SMF Supporters
        • Sep 2019
        • 10428

        #18
        Interesting vehicle Jakko.

        Those tracks looks identical to the ones I used on my Pz II I used for the SimonT tribute build - they were handed too

        They were my first (and only) individual link tracks I've used. I don't know if you've used them before but I found them very easy to work with, not too hard to clean up and generally clipped together well.

        The problem I ran into was when it came to putting them on the vehicle. because of the nature of the fixing points - the pins are quite short and the receiving hollows equally shallow to match - as soon as you put them under any tension, they pulled apart very easily.

        I'm probably telling you something you already know but I got around the problem by laying out a length of Tamiya tape and laying the tracks on top of that, making sure it was stuck down the length. I then dribbled TET into each join, left it a couple of minutes and then bent it round the tracks, leaving one end open so I could remove them for painting.

        Will try to follow this one.

        ATB.

        Andrew

        Comment

        • Tim Marlow
          SMF Supporters
          • Apr 2018
          • 18932
          • Tim
          • Somerset UK

          #19
          Don’t remember this at all Jakko. Looks like you made good progress before shelving it though. Interesting vehicle :thumb2:

          Comment

          • scottie3158
            SMF Supporters
            • Apr 2018
            • 14221
            • Paul
            • Holbeach

            #20
            I will come along for the ride.

            Comment

            • Guest

              #21
              Originally posted by adt70hk
              Those tracks looks identical to the ones I used on my Pz II I used for the SimonT tribute build - they were handed too
              I’m not sure, but I think the LWS used Pz.Kpfz. II tracks, so that would tally.

              Originally posted by adt70hk
              I don't know if you've used them before
              Only in so far as I built the two lengths of six links each you can see in the green box, and that was four years ago

              Originally posted by adt70hk
              The problem I ran into was when it came to putting them on the vehicle. because of the nature of the fixing points - the pins are quite short and the receiving hollows equally shallow to match - as soon as you put them under any tension, they pulled apart very easily.
              Thanks for the warning, I'll have to keep that in mind when I put them on. The lengths of six seem sturdy enough, but who knows how a full track will behave? There is also a build article about this kit in Military Modelling Vol. 39 No. 12, 16 October 2009, and the builder in that says that the links are prone to breaking, which hasn’t happened to me but it’s another thing to pay attention to when I get round to assembling the tracks.

              Originally posted by Tim Marlow
              Don’t remember this at all Jakko. Looks like you made good progress before shelving it though.
              On reading back the thread, I notice I hadn’t posted a picture of what I did after assembling that bit with the three walls, which was that I painted the floor, and built the chimney, seats and dashboard. That’s about it for the progress made before the kit went back into its box

              Comment

              • adt70hk
                SMF Supporters
                • Sep 2019
                • 10428

                #22
                Originally posted by Jakko
                I’m not sure, but I think the LWS used Pz.Kpfz. II tracks, so that would tally.
                Thanks for the warning, I'll have to keep that in mind when I put them on. The lengths of six seem sturdy enough, but who knows how a full track will behave? There is also a build article about this kit in Military Modelling Vol. 39 No. 12, 16 October 2009, and the builder in that says that the links are prone to breaking, which hasn’t happened to me but it’s another thing to pay attention to when I get round to assembling the tracks.
                You're welcome. I seem to remember that I did mine in groups of 10 to keep an easy count and at that length they articulated well and stayed together fine. It was when I started to link them together that I ran into problems. I don't remember ANY breaking though - just coming apart at the join.

                ATB.

                Andrew

                Comment

                • Jim R
                  SMF Supporters
                  • Apr 2018
                  • 15745
                  • Jim
                  • Shropshire

                  #23
                  Hi Jakko
                  I'd completely forgotten this although I had posted on the thread in my younger days :smiling:
                  Nice job with those pipes and good luck with masking the floor. The track links look well designed and detailed.
                  Jim

                  Comment

                  • Guest

                    #24
                    Originally posted by adt70hk
                    I seem to remember that I did mine in groups of 10 to keep an easy count and at that length they articulated well and stayed together fine. It was when I started to link them together that I ran into problems.
                    That sounds like the problem might just be that when you put lengths together, the links can’t flex as much as when you put a single link on the end of a length, and so aren’t as tight as they should be?

                    Originally posted by Jim R
                    I'd completely forgotten this although I had posted on the thread in my younger days :smiling:
                    My memory isn’t what it used to be either. Wait, who were you again?

                    Originally posted by Jim R
                    good luck with masking the floor.
                    I’m having some trouble thinking of a good way to mask around the exhaust pipe. Cutting semicircular bits from tape might work, I suppose.

                    Comment

                    • stillp
                      SMF Supporters
                      • Nov 2016
                      • 8097
                      • Pete
                      • Rugby

                      #25
                      Originally posted by Jakko


                      I’m having some trouble thinking of a good way to mask around the exhaust pipe. Cutting semicircular bits from tape might work, I suppose.
                      Maskol?
                      Pete

                      Comment

                      • Tim Marlow
                        SMF Supporters
                        • Apr 2018
                        • 18932
                        • Tim
                        • Somerset UK

                        #26
                        Hand paint then touch up where needed?

                        Comment

                        • Guest

                          #27
                          I hadn’t thought of Maskol at all, and even though my bottle of it dried oud about a decade ago, I could also just use PVA glue, I suppose. Though tape kind of has my preference, so I'll try messing around with that first, and if it doesn’t work as I want, reach for something else Touching up will probably be needed anyway, but I’d prefer to spray the interior so I don’t have to paint it more than once.

                          Comment

                          • stillp
                            SMF Supporters
                            • Nov 2016
                            • 8097
                            • Pete
                            • Rugby

                            #28
                            Originally posted by Jakko
                            I I could also just use PVA glue, I suppose.
                            Someone else (Richard?) suggested that once. I tried it a while ago but couldn't get it to come off. Perhaps my PVA glue is too good?
                            Pete

                            Comment

                            • Guest

                              #29
                              I’ve not had that problem when applying it to painted plastic, but I must say I’ve never used it for masking so maybe I should be careful, yes.

                              Comment

                              • Guest

                                #30
                                After a quick trip to the shops, I have new superglue and could therefore finish the pipework:

                                [ATTACH]451033[/ATTACH]

                                I also masked off the rest of the floor. As you can see, it doesn’t really fit snugly around the smokestack, but I think I’ll follow Tim’s advice and just touch up the floor there. I need to prime the copper first, though, before I spray the interior.

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