I hate to get pedantic but it is a particular niggle of mine that the term "shock absorber", although widely used (even by myself), is actually an incorrect description. The springs do the work of absorbing shocks, the part in question is better called a damper as it damps the oscillation of the spring through resistance, either by forcing oil through small holes as in a modern telescopic damper, or by friction plates sliding against each other as in the lever arm type depicted in your model.
1/35 Bronco Gaz-69 2P26 ATM 'Baby Carriage'
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Sorry, reading that back this morning it sounds a bit harsh, that wasn't my intention.
What I should have added is that's why they may appear too weedy to absorb any shock, as, despite the name often used for them, they don't actually have to absorb shocks. :smiling3:Comment
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Those aren't friction shock absorbers dampers Andy, lever arm dampers are hydraulic, just like the telescopic ones that are more common these days. My TR4A has lever arm dampers on the rear, they contain two pistons, one for bump, one for rebound, that as you say force oil through small holes.
Fristion dampers look very different, having an assembly of discs that rotate against each other as the axle moves up or down.
PeteComment
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Cheers Pete. I know of the friction type but have never seen one, hence my mistake. Thank you for the correction.
Dave, so sorry about the temporary derailment.Comment
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Onto the floor pan - quite a few parts, some PE, and not a lot to show for it. The passengers seat back is reversed, so he can use the missile controls ( it can also be dismounted, and used away from the vehicle, via cable - stored on a drum )
The person responsible for the instructions must have worked for Dragon ( or maybe he went to work there! ). Parts are added in one stage, then vanish for several stages, and appear again later!
DaveComment
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Though they were apparently also mounted lengthwise.Comment
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After a day away from the bench - visitors/visiting!
The body sides need a bit of cleaning up!
There are a lot of 'pips' to remove - these parts are very thin & flexible.....................
Dry fitted the wheels - hmm three pointer, some adjustment needed!
Started to add the sides - only glued over the rear wheel arches. This is the most positive location area - I'll let this really dry before continuing, the parts are very thin, and it would be very easy to distort, or break them
It's a rather small vehicle................................
This always gives me a problem, when to start painting? A larger vehicle, and I'd leave the body off, but this is so small! I'll leave the doors, windows & cab roof off, but there's loads of detail painting needed on the rear cab bulkhead, so it looks like it's going to paint as I go along from now.
DaveComment
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Coming along nicely despite poor instruction. I had similar lever operated hydraulic dampers on the front suspension of my 53 Oldsmobile. As you said, "...look too small..." they were not very effective, but kind of cute. They had a little port you could add auto trans fluid to if low. PaulEComment
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Added a few more bits, front mudguards, bonnet & grille - then primed - black. Soviet wheeled vehicles seemed to have a black chassis, so that's a start. I'm going to do the cab interior with Russian Green, then the exterior body work with a sandy/beige/yellow, and the canvas bits with a faded grey/yellow colour..................................
I'm going to try and complete the main vehicle, before moving onto the missiles & launcher. Then there's only the folded hood..................
DaveComment
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I'm collecting the foil lids from my instant porridge pots for possible future use. They have some texture to them, maybe a bit too much, but smoothing it out a little should be easier then trying to add it in to completely smooth foil.
Might be worth a look amongst your other experiments.Comment
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It takes a bit of investigation, but you can find packaging foil like Andy mentions above that have varying amounts of texture eg. Philadelphia Cream Cheese foil has a texture in 1/87 scale akin to a metal non skid surface. I've found in 1/87 scale it is easier to add texture where needed by impressing only because cloth/canvass texture can be gained easier through finishes. PaulEComment
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