Zvezda 1/35 Kamaz "Mustang"

[Guest]

Thanks Paul.

Blutack - I didn't think of that Dave! I tried tape on the outside but that didn't work, will remember that trick for next time. I think I'll be adding some CA to the insides, but hadn't thought about opening the tilt. I am planning to keep it removable if at all possible so I can see what's inside, but an open back might give a nice touch too.

Same here Andy, or I'll set them up on a ceramic tile that I know is flat. Unfortunately, since there isn't a common reference point on the axles it wasn't possible in this case. I've eyeballed the centre line of each and they look straight, but I'll know for sure once the wheels are built (a good few hours work by themselves!)

[Guest]

You could also glue some plastic card along the insides of the joins to strengthen them, or even make internal walls from it to give the whole thing some rigidity. That’s probably going to be quite fiddly, though. Braces from lengths of sprue cut are probably easier and just as strong, come to think of it.

[Guest]

Thanks, some bracing is a good idea, although I've come to it this morning and it's remarkably sturdy now the joints have dried.

I'll see how it goes, as a bit of flex might come in handy if I've gotten something a little out of square!

[Jim R]

Hi Andy
Missed the start of this but caught up now. By 'eck that's some kit. Certainly not skimped on the parts count. Superb start. The chassis/engine looks great.
Jim

[Guest]

Cheers Jim. Yes, there's plenty to go at!

[scottie3158]

Hi Andy.
A Thing you can try if wheels are not perfectly flat but it's only good for small differences. is to pin a sheet of smooth emery to a flat board and gently move the truck with the wheels on, backwards and forwards this will remove any high points. The other advantage is it gives the tyre a nice flat at the bottom to indicate a bit of weight in the truck. I have done it a few times but you have to take care as to not damage it.

[Guest]

Thanks Paul. I've used that trick in the past but never on soft rubber tyres. I still have my fingers crossed, hoping for the best.

With the load bed drying nice and flat I started assembling the seat and sides. I painted most of this in sections so I could reach underneath the seats. No one will ever see it I suppose, but at least I know it's been done. The bed got a coat on the outside too. It's all only a base to get me started but again it was easier to get around all the edges before assembly.

I've also positioned one of the benches folded down so I can add a bit of cargo if I feel like it. It's itching for a dozen or so figures but that's unlikely to happen in this lifetime :smiling5:

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And the tilt fits well!

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I've also started painting all of the tools, wheel chocks, towing bars etc that fit underneath the bed.

[Steve Brodie]

Very nice build, love the exhaust and those engines are really well kitted out aren't they.

[Guest]

Thanks Steve.

Yes, they've done a great job with the engine I think, shame to hide it all away really. This version has the option to display the cab tilted forward, to put the engine on show, but I'm not sure I'd want it that way permanently. Once I've got it built up I'll see if there's a way have the cab in both positions.

So far I can only see the gear lever being an issue. It should sit on top of the engine in "open" mode, or inside the cab when "closed". I'm sure that's an easy fix.

[Steve Brodie]

The engine on the Pantsir, is a full build as well, but no way of showing it off, mind as i am going to display it in launch mode, i dont think they would be doing much maintenance work at the same time :smiling2: :smiling2:

[Guest]

I sprayed the tilt today and had a go at modulation. It looks ok from some angles, but not so good from others. I may just blast it with a thin coat of the base colour to tone it down, but will take a second look tomorrow.

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I also plucked up the courage to make a start on the bit I like the least - weathering. Beginning with the part that always fills me with dread, a wash. For some reason I thought I'd go back to my ready made enamels and see if I could get them to work for me. Many many people use them successfully all the time, but as before, my model is now falling apart at the seams! :angry:

So all my enamel stuff is now going in the bin, and I might even put all my oils up for adoption too. The smell of them makes me nauseous anyway, and the stress and anguish they cause isn't something I need in a hobby that's supposed to be fun! :smiling5:

[scottie3158]

Andy,
Nice work on the modulation. The washes I use are cheap and cheerful. I just seal the whole build with Klear and use the dot process with oils then using odourless thinners. i do my washes blending and pin washes. I know some people like these washes and everything else ready made but they are just expensive versions of things you can make yourself. But given your painting skills you always get a great result. And your right this should be fun.

[Steve Jones]

Really nice finish with the wet stuff. The detailing on the kit looks really good. Keep up the great work mate

[Guest]

Thanks chaps.

I've glued it back together now (at least it didn't completely disintegrate like my 25 pounder!) and will keep cracking on.

[Dave Ward]

Andy,
couldn't agree more about the smell! I dabbled in oils for figure painting earlier in the year, and the odour seemed to linger, and even made my shirt smell. I maybe I'm a clumsy, messy modeller, but I don't have the same problem with acrylics..............
Dave