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Tamiya BMW R75/ sidecar

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  • GerryW
    • Feb 2021
    • 1757

    #1

    Tamiya BMW R75/ sidecar

    Started today, not getting far, as it seems that every bit has got to have the flash/mold seams scraped, so slow going!
    Fit of the parts seem to be fine, though locating pins/holes are sloppyClick image for larger version

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    Engine together, will be getting the paints out next, as a lot of it isn't accessable after assembly.
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  • GerryW
    • Feb 2021
    • 1757

    #2
    I'm also 'doubtful' regarding some of the Tamiya colour suggestions/kit omissions:-
    Front wheel blanking plate - given in the instructions as 'Flat White' - these plates were probably either steel or Aluminium
    Front fork sliders - no mention of them, but they were probably steel coloured (or scratched up) as especially on an outfit, the forks tend to flex a bit! (Specially if ridden 'enthusiastically' :tongue-out3: )
    No sidecar 'triangulation' stays (Zvezda do include them) so will have to 'play' with some sprue.

    Daresay that I'll come across more as I go through!

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    • GerryW
      • Feb 2021
      • 1757

      #3
      That'll teach me - just went to the paint box, and at some point over the past 10+ years (last time I did a model!) the 'Polished Steel' has dried right out and the only 'Silver' I've got is 'Chrome Silver' (could have sworn I'd got at least half a tin of 'Silver'!), so a slight hiatus while I order some paints!

      Order put into the forum shop for paints & some jerry cans (might as well bulk it out a little!)

      Comment

      • GerryW
        • Feb 2021
        • 1757

        #4
        Getting in some (much needed) painting practice (must be at least 10 years ago that I last did any! :thinking: )
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        Most of it can be corrected if needed!:tongue-out3:

        Comment

        • Guest

          #5
          A second coat will fix that fine. Acrylics often don’t cover fully on the first go if you brush them on, but just wait until the paint is hard and put on another coat.

          Well, that is, as long as you’re not using LifeColor paint, which will still need about three more coats after that.

          Comment

          • adt70hk
            SMF Supporters
            • Sep 2019
            • 10400

            #6
            Nice start Gerry.

            ATB.

            Andrew

            Comment

            • GerryW
              • Feb 2021
              • 1757

              #7
              Originally posted by Jakko
              A second coat will fix that fine. Acrylics often don’t cover fully on the first go if you brush them on, but just wait until the paint is hard and put on another coat.

              Well, that is, as long as you’re not using LifeColor paint, which will still need about three more coats after that.
              I'm using the old Humbrol & Airfix enamels that I've got sitting in 'the paint box' - haven't 'moved up' to acrylics yet!:upside::smiling5: Though to be fair to them, a good stir, and they seem to be back to how they were in the first place when new - not bad for getting on for 20 year old paints (quite possibly a lot older!) just my shaky hands and eyesight that are the problem!
              The other problem is the old brushes have gone a little 'fuzzy', so will probably 'bind' or trim them to get back 'tight' - though my two 'detail' brushes are fine (2 hairs on each so that they act like a fountain pen nib).
              Still, at least I can practice on the 'out of sight' bits!

              Originally posted by adt70hk
              Nice start Gerry.

              ATB.

              Andrew
              Thanks, just got to get the 'modelling head' on & some batteries (AG10s) for the magnifying specs.

              Comment

              • Guest

                #8
                Originally posted by GerryW
                I'm using the old Humbrol & Airfix enamels that I've got sitting in 'the paint box' - haven't 'moved up' to acrylics yet!:upside::smiling5:
                Ah, I thought you were using acrylics But yeah, enamels, especially Humbrol’s, will last just about forever. I have tins I bought in the 1980s that work fine, and some (5–10 or so) years ago I bought a supply that dated from the 1970s, which are also still perfectly good — provided you stir them for what feels like hours first

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                • GerryW
                  • Feb 2021
                  • 1757

                  #9
                  Originally posted by Jakko
                  Ah, I thought you were using acrylics :smiling3: But yeah, enamels, especially Humbrol’s, will last just about forever. I have tins I bought in the 1980s that work fine, and some (5–10 or so) years ago I bought a supply that dated from the 1970s, which are also still perfectly good — provided you stir them for what feels like hours first :smiling3:
                  Hate to think how old some of those paints of mine are - started doing models about '72(?) and you don't use much 'flesh' paint - and there's a tin of olive drab in the box - can't remember the last time that I did an 'Allied' model! :thinking:

                  Comment

                  • Guest

                    #10
                    You can date Humbrol paints fairly well by what is printed on the tin, and the numbering on the lid. If the colour numbers include letters, like HU-1, then it’s probably 1970s or earlier, as the tins I bought in the early 1980s when I started building models, only had numbers.

                    Wow, I just found this site that explains the dates of the different tins. I think in that batch of old paint I bought, I have some from the early to mid 60s, even. Most appear to be 1970s, though.

                    Comment

                    • JR
                      • May 2015
                      • 18273

                      #11
                      Originally posted by Jakko
                      You can date Humbrol paints fairly well by what is printed on the tin, and the numbering on the lid. If the colour numbers include letters, like HU-1, then it’s probably 1970s or earlier, as the tins I bought in the early 1980s when I started building models, only had numbers.

                      Wow, I just found this site that explains the dates of the different tins. I think in that batch of old paint I bought, I have some from the early to mid 60s, even. Most appear to be 1970s, though.
                      Jakko nice to see such a international collaboration, nerds supreme.:nerd:

                      Sorry Gerry butting in.

                      Comment

                      • GerryW
                        • Feb 2021
                        • 1757

                        #12
                        Originally posted by Jakko
                        You can date Humbrol paints fairly well by what is printed on the tin, and the numbering on the lid. If the colour numbers include letters, like HU-1, then it’s probably 1970s or earlier, as the tins I bought in the early 1980s when I started building models, only had numbers.

                        Wow, I just found this site that explains the dates of the different tins. I think in that batch of old paint I bought, I have some from the early to mid 60s, even. Most appear to be 1970s, though.
                        @Jakko looks like the earliest Humbrol that in a quick look I've got is around '93, so not as early as I thought. Have got a couple of 'JP' colours - not sure where they came from - I can't find any mention on the web about them! Still, the main thing is that they still work! My Airfix are post glass bottles though. :thumb2:
                        Originally posted by John Race
                        Jakko nice to see such a international collaboration, nerds supreme.:nerd:

                        Sorry Gerry butting in.
                        Don't be sorry, always room for a bit of banter!

                        Comment

                        • GerryW
                          • Feb 2021
                          • 1757

                          #13
                          Slowly getting the skills back, happy with the gear change lever knob (just waiting for the polished steel to arrive for the rest of it), and how the sidecar is turning outClick image for larger version

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                          • Guest

                            #14
                            Originally posted by GerryW
                            @Jakko looks like the earliest Humbrol that in a quick look I've got is around '93, so not as early as I thought.
                            It’s still the paint from before they switched to the improved (yeah, right) “Super Enamels”, so you should be OK with it.

                            Originally posted by GerryW
                            Have got a couple of 'JP' colours - not sure where they came from - I can't find any mention on the web about them!
                            Never heard of that brand, I think.

                            Comment

                            • GerryW
                              • Feb 2021
                              • 1757

                              #15
                              Originally posted by Jakko
                              It’s still the paint from before they switched to the improved (yeah, right) “Super Enamels”, so you should be OK with it.


                              Never heard of that brand, I think.
                              Got some of the "Super Enamel", but not looked at that yet! At least I don't think that I've any of the 'Chinese' humbrol!

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