Tamiya BMW R75/ sidecar

[GerryW]

Don't think it has to move Gerry, if it does one of the kids will say or move it for you.
Seen posts before about fillers separating, might take longer than a night to correct it, but worth a try .

I'll keep giving it a shake as well, see if that'll help - though I might see about 'draining' it, don't mind if it's a bit 'stiff', rather than 'sloppy' for future use.

[Guest]

first time of using the Revell 'Plasto' not too sure that I'm all that keen on it, seems as though it's separated in the tube & I'm getting a lot of fluid coming out, and not much filler

That’s what I was talking about in my reply to your other remark about this putty Like I said there, simplest solution is to squeeze all the glue out of the tube.

[GerryW]

That’s what I was talking about in my reply to your other remark about this putty :smiling3: Like I said there, simplest solution is to squeeze all the glue out of the tube.

Probably will squeeze it out - or let it run out, which seems to be what it wants to do! Oh well, onwards and upwards!

[GerryW]

Start point (the marks show where the filler ran) two figures from the 'spares' tub, tempted to remove the jackets and have the sleeves rolled up.

The standing figure needs some more work to his forehead (bit 'neandethal' at the moment)

[GerryW]

A little bit of work later, plus finding out that I haven't got any 'flesh' paint (so mixed up a little using randome tan and brick red) and they've turned out 'passible'

[JR]

Good try, not easy to add the right amount of head including the hair.

[GerryW]

Good try, not easy to add the right amount of head including the hair.

I tend to cheat a little, and put too much on, then file back (then take too much off!) then give up & decide that 'it's close enough' and nobody's going to look that close anyway!
Now got to get the rest of the painting done and get the sidecar to the right height compared to the two of them & get the arms in the right places.

[Guest]

That’s not cheating, that’s the smart way to do it

[GerryW]

My 'flesh' paint (plus others) has just appeared! Eldest son has just pulled out his 'stash' ( Airfix BOB memorial flight (from about 2000) - all 3 planes, he'd just done the spitfire) and guess what was sitting in the box, yes, half a dozen of my Humbrol tins!

[Jim R]

Hi Gerry
Nice work on the figures. Very hard to do.
Jim

[GerryW]

Hi Gerry
Nice work on the figures. Very hard to do.
Jim

Thanks Jim, helps that I've got a cheapy set of magnifying glasses (don't think that I could have done most of this without them, what with my eyesight) using them with the 2.5x lens in.

[GerryW]

Nearly there - still got a fair bit to get done, but at least I can see where it's heading! Will have to start on the dio soon, so that I can match the mud/soil onto the boot soles etc.

[outrunner]

Looking good but being a biker myself I always think most model bike kits have spokes that look too thick.

Andy.

[GerryW]

Looking good but being a biker myself I always think most model bike kits have spokes that look too thick.

Andy.

I agree - even when you go up in scale, they're still too thick (I've gone up to 1/6 I think) - think that most bike wheel spokes are around the 4mm mark, so getting them somewhere about right would mean at 1/35 scale a spoke that's .11 mm thick, then the lacing pattern (you'll notice that on this model, the spokes aren't overlapped) would probably mean horrendous costs, then trying to clean up the flash - it goes on forever, think I'll accept the 'shortcomings'! At least they aren't just molded onto a disc of plastic :smiling5:

[Guest]

Etched spokes are about the closest you can get, really. Unless, of course, you go and make your own from (say) very thin fishing line, or even hair … it should be doable, and strong enough to hold up the model — but rather you than me A disc of clear plastic with the spokes engraved in it might actually be a good way to do it, if the disc is clear enough and doesn’t reflect too much.