1/35 Krupp Protze

[GerryW]

Gerry...get used to cocktail sticks or rounded tooth pics as you'll be able to roll the putty in using your finger tips as well as poke in with the tip without crazing the plastic.

Cheers,
Richard

I'll give it a try on something that doesn't 'matter' and are how I get on :thumb2:

Hi Gerry
Off to a good start - nice and neat. That's an interesting video that Jakko flagged up. I had no idea how the process worked or how the marks got there. Humbrol paints are a bit out of favor but I also like them.
Jim

Thanks, I try to get it neat - and haven't yet tried my hand at airbrush, so it's all brush and magnifying visor.
I have watched extruding machines in action, but not really taken much notice.
Using Humbrol, as they're what I've always used, so know what I can do with them and still got a load, which I won't just dump - must admit also that they're really all I know, other than the old Airfix bottles.

[rtfoe]

I still love using Humbrol or Airfix paints to dry brush. Good thing Humbrol is still available. I treat the Airfix paint like gold. :smiling6:

Cheers,
Richard

[Guest]

Enjoying the build (at the moment anyway!) think that I might have to look for a finer tool for the filler, as I'm using the tip of my knife at the moment, and I can't get on with using a cocktail stick.

I prefer steel sculpting tools for applying putty, like these:

[ATTACH]417444[/ATTACH]

I usually use one that looks like the fourth from left, with the flat bent ends, for small amounts or areas and the right-most one, with the blade-like ends, for larger amounts or areas. (Though mine are of somewhat different shapes, the blades especially being a bit larger than in this photo.)

[GerryW]

I prefer steel sculpting tools for applying putty, like these:

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I usually use one that looks like the fourth from left, with the flat bent ends, for small amounts or areas and the right-most one, with the blade-like ends, for larger amounts or areas. (Though mine are of somewhat different shapes, the blades especially being a bit larger than in this photo.)

Look a bit like dental tools! :thinking:

[Guest]

Ones like these are sold as both dental and sculpting tools. I’m not sure what the difference is, except (I hope) the dental ones are of higher quality, maybe?

[GerryW]

Ones like these are sold as both dental and sculpting tools. I’m not sure what the difference is, except (I hope) the dental ones are of higher quality, maybe?

Hopefully, dental ones are high quality stainless that can take repeated heating for sterilisation - but they don't get used for long, fairly sure that there's a time limit for them.

[rtfoe]

I have those lying around somewhere but eventually comeback to the simple tooth pic as they're closer to the work surface I sculpt or fill on unless they make them smaller. :smiling6:

Cheers,
Richard

[GerryW]

Aaannnnd made my life harder - fully assembled the front rear axle, then realised that it's going to be a right pig to detail paint the halfshafts! :tongue-out3: :tongue-out3:

[GerryW]

Well, it's getting there




Despite the fact that it seems that no matter how much I check for seam lines, first appearance of paint brings them out! At least they're out of sight at the moment - keep practicing for the bits that will be on view!

[GerryW]

Can't get my head round how the rear suspension should be fitted - as I've trial rested them in the photos, or hard up against the 'out-rigger' bits from the chassis - instruction sheet is really unclear on the exact positioning of them - if I go with how I've sat them, they look like they're waving about in the air, but if they are on the square on top of the hubs, they appear too high, but are against the chassis outriggers - anyone done one that can give me a pointer?
Edit Just looked on Scalemates, and a review showed exactly the same, so guess I can glue them in - just doesn't look 'right'

[Guest]

I would expect the suspension arms to be attached to the chassis, else the whole thing would sag all over the place.

Do these help?

[ATTACH]417564[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]417565[/ATTACH]

[adt70hk]

Are they circular depressions and/or slightly raised areas? If so, these are ejector marks. They’re left by the pins that push the sprue from the mould after it’s been made, as you can see at the point this video starts:

(Watching the whole thing gives you a good idea of how model kit parts are made, BTW.)

Anyway, the marks are left on the part because the pins are usually not quite flush with the rest of the mould, but they’re needed to get the part out. This is why many smaller parts have a little extra round bit of plastic attached to them, which you have to cut away: for an ejector pin to push against, rather than the part itself. Especially older kits often have ejectors pushing against larger parts themselves, and frequently in areas that will be visible after assembly.

Jakko,

Fascinating thanks for sharing.

Andrew

[GerryW]

I would expect the suspension arms to be attached to the chassis, else the whole thing would sag all over the place.

Do these help?

[ATTACH=CONFIG]n[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]n[/ATTACH]

Thanks Jakko, looks like Tamiya have made the cross member too short - thought that it should connect, but there was no way that I could get it to!

[Guest]

Do the front, rear and spare wheels line up, the way you have the rear suspension now? If so, you probably have them correct and Tamiya got the crossmember wrong; if the rear wheels are further out than the rest, there must be some way to get them further in.

[GerryW]

Do the front, rear and spare wheels line up, the way you have the rear suspension now? If so, you probably have them correct and Tamiya got the crossmember wrong; if the rear wheels are further out than the rest, there must be some way to get them further in.

The rear wheels can't be further out, as the rear axles are a single piece molding (just the arms added) the height of the bed doesn't help, as it sits between the suspension anyway - I'm taking it that Tamiya have got the cross member wrong!