That's some great scratching Nick
1/72 Chevrolet CMP C60L GS, steel body No.13 cab, an IBG kitbash
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That’s why I was wondering if maybe the colour would affect this behaviour.
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Might also be affected by the paint……enamels would readily leach out plasticisers, and UV in sunlight causes issues with un stabilised plastics as well.Comment
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Maybe acrylics is the problem and enamels lengthen the plastic card’s life, thenI’ve been using mostly acrylics for over 30 years, but I don’t have enough comparison material to say whether a model painted in enamels wouldn’t suffer this when one in acrylics does, or vice versa, or both just as badly.
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Primed & base coated in Halfords grey acrylic primer, 4hrs later OOJ Tamiya XF58 with 10% X20...
Okies, visible scarring from punch, above arch cutouts, I will dawb some Mr Surfacer 1000 in there.....
Overall pleased, yea.... iva shank in chassis, hey ho body covers any mr. meanor.... comes in 157.8" in 72nd measurements, imma happy.
Time to look into old guitar string stash for tilt hoops
NickComment
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Nah i used a hole punch set, but only pressed hard the lower needed semicircle/hemisphere.... I cut out semicircle with scalpel, ...but I did leave a scar/mark from punch
Prime n base paint has revealled this
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I am, rather blinkin happy, the 'build on sheet taped down' worked really well, in the past I've cut body parts then added strips, always warped with styrenestrip additions, as in a stretched paper/styrene sheet method it is a 100% better finishComment
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Guest
Neither is a method I had considered, so now I’ll have some to try if I ever need to make semicircular cutouts myself.
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What I have done in the past, is make the tailgate in two pieces, circle punch the edge of one segment half the diameter of the punch, and then glue the two segments together leaving a nice clean half circle. Here is an example of a captured GMC that got this treatment on the edge and then had the finished edge installed after. Hope this helps.Comment
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