Scotties big Zundapp

[Tim Marlow]

Rick,
Very true I collect wire from all sources old flex etc I also have some steel wire of various gauges but I can't remember where I got it.

I’ve got a drawer full of old crap as well Paul

[scottie3158]

I’ve got a drawer full of old crap as well Paul

Its amazing what house hold items can be reused.

[scottie3158]

I had some fun today the rod I was waiting for has turned up so the first linkage was replaced. As far as I can make out this lever could engage/disengage the drive to the side car all though I could be wrong.

Firstly the kit part



Although not exactly bad it does lack definition so Scratched it had to be. So using brass rod. copper sheet punched and drilled nuts and punched details and part of the original linkage I came up with this.



then a picture of each end. The arm is not glued in place yet to allow me to position it correctly.





next the gear selector but that will be another day.

cheers
Scottie

[Mini Me]

Love it!.... Don't forget to safety wire those clevis nuts or they'll back off and throw your linkage out of adjustment. :tongue-out3: :tongue-out2: :thumb2:

[Guest]

As far as I can make out this lever could engage/disengage the drive to the side car all though I could be wrong.

From looking at a few photos, the rear lever seems to be on the differential, and IIRC, it’s to lock the differential so power always goes to both rear wheels.

Incidentally, never build a BMW R 75 or Zündapp KS 750 as a solo machine without a sidecar as if they were also used that way (both Tamiya and Italeri released 1:35 scale sets like that in the 70s). These bikes were designed from the ground up to have the sidecar, and if the sidecar is removed, the differential lock is too weak for prolonged use. With the lock disengaged, you won’t be going anywhere, of course: all power will go to the free end of the differential, and the bike’s rear wheel then doesn’t turn at all. Enterprising people (after the war) built a plate to stick to the outside of the differential so the bike could be ridden without a sidecar and without destroying the lock, though.

[Nicko]

This is fabulous Scottie! Incidentally, what do you use to cut the brass rod/tube whilst not mashing the end?

Nick

[simontie]

Great build love all this detail work, can‘t wait but will for the final pictures.

[Jim R]

Really skilled scratch work there Scottie. It's getting very difficult to decide if the photos are reference or your build.
You will really have to treat yourself to some new tweezers :smiling:

[Tim Marlow]

Superb detail here Scottie. What worries me is that I could see you doing this if it was 1/35

[Mickc1440]

More fantastic scratchery Scottie

[scottie3158]

Love it!.... Don't forget to safety wire those clevis nuts or they'll back off and throw your linkage out of adjustment. :tongue-out3: :tongue-out2: :thumb2:

Rick,
I hoped you wouldn't notice

From looking at a few photos, the rear lever seems to be on the differential, and IIRC, it’s to lock the differential so power always goes to both rear wheels.

Incidentally, never build a BMW R 75 or Zündapp KS 750 as a solo machine without a sidecar as if they were also used that way (both Tamiya and Italeri released 1:35 scale sets like that in the 70s). These bikes were designed from the ground up to have the sidecar, and if the sidecar is removed, the differential lock is too weak for prolonged use. With the lock disengaged, you won’t be going anywhere, of course: all power will go to the free end of the differential, and the bike’s rear wheel then doesn’t turn at all. Enterprising people (after the war) built a plate to stick to the outside of the differential so the bike could be ridden without a sidecar and without destroying the lock, though.

Jakko,
Thanks, that makes perfect sense having a diff lock.

This is fabulous Scottie! Incidentally, what do you use to cut the brass rod/tube whilst not mashing the end?

Nick

Nick,
Thank you mate. I have a razor saw which I use one the tube. For wire I have some side cutters and nail clippers for finer gauges.

Great build love all this detail work, can‘t wait but will for the final pictures.

Simon, glad you like it mate. You will have to wait a while yet still lots to do.

Really skilled scratch work there Scottie. It's getting very difficult to decide if the photos are reference or your build.
You will really have to treat yourself to some new tweezers :smiling:

Jim,
You are to kind mate. I should give them a clean but I just use these for painting.

Superb detail here Scottie. What worries me is that I could see you doing this if it was 1/35

Tim,
If I ever do attempt it please phone matron.

More fantastic scratchery Scottie

Thanks Mick, good to see you sticking with it.

[scottie3158]

Gear selector linkages are done. To make sure everything lines up when fitted they work. well at least they do at the moment a bit of paint. They still need a final clean up but I think they look better than the over thick miss aligned and basic kit offerings.







cheers
Scottie

[Jim R]

To make sure everything lines up when fitted they work.

By 'eck Scottie you'll have the engine firing up next.

Brilliant stuff.

[Allen Dewire]

Damn, he's at it again folks..........That linkage looks real Bro!!! I really think you are having too much fun here and your scratchy work just gets better and better Paul..............

Knit one, Perl two. Knit one, Perl two. Knit one, Perl two..........Stupid scarf...........

Prost
Allen

[scottie3158]

By 'eck Scottie you have the engine firing up next.

Brilliant stuff.

Jim, just waiting for the spark plugs mate

Damn, he's at it again folks..........That linkage looks real Bro!!! I really think you are having too much fun here and your scratchy work just gets better and better Paul..............

Knit one, Perl two. Knit one, Perl two. Knit one, Perl two..........Stupid scarf...........

Prost
Allen

Cheers Allen I just wanted to see if I could do it.