Sorry to hear that Paul, it was looking amazing.
Scotties Bedford RL
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Mr. Scottie, you have my full condolences when it comes to a situation such as this. I too am in a similar place and it has been bothering me for some time now. I hope this does not get you into a similar slump.....wouldn't wish this on anyone. :tired:Comment
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Sorry to hear that mate - I empathise with you, perhaps some time hence we'll see the culmination of your efforts!
SteveComment
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Cheers Steve, I hope so mate it would be a shame after all the work that went in to it.Comment
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Too good to give up on us this one Paul. Give it a rest then come back at it after rethinking the problem. The glazing shouldn’t be too bad really. It is flat glass after all. There are a couple of approaches to this that I’ve used in the past, and one that comes to mind when looking at pictures of the real truck.
Ignore as much of the following as you want, it’s just suggestions…..this model is a cracker and needs to get over the line……no pressure mind
One I’ve used is simply butt joining the glazing into the aperture. It’s OK, but doesn’t take much handling.
Another way I’ve used is to carve out a rebate behind the frame and fit the glass into that. Might not be feasible here though.
One that I’ve not used, but that comes to mind, is this…..Looking at pictures there is rubber beading around the glass, so perhaps you could add the beading to give a locating ridge for the glass to fit against.
The panes of glass will need to be filed up individually and fitted one at a time. I find it’s better to use thicker rigid stock like 0.5mm (or even 1mm) clear styrene for the panes. It’s easier to file up accurately and stays flat in the apertures. Some people used to use plastic from the boxes Ferraro Rocher comes in . I used Krystal Klear to stick mine in, by the way.Comment
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Too good to give up on us this one Paul. Give it a rest then come back at it after rethinking the problem. The glazing shouldn’t be too bad really. It is flat glass after all. There are a couple of approaches to this that I’ve used in the past, and one that comes to mind when looking at pictures of the real truck.
Ignore as much of the following as you want, it’s just suggestions…..this model is a cracker and needs to get over the line……no pressure mind
One I’ve used is simply butt joining the glazing into the aperture. It’s OK, but doesn’t take much handling.
Another way I’ve used is to carve out a rebate behind the frame and fit the glass into that. Might not be feasible here though.
One that I’ve not used, but that comes to mind, is this…..Looking at pictures there is rubber beading around the glass, so perhaps you could add the beading to give a locating ridge for the glass to fit against.
The panes of glass will need to be filed up individually and fitted one at a time. I find it’s better to use thicker rigid stock like 0.5mm (or even 1mm) clear styrene for the panes. It’s easier to file up accurately and stays flat in the apertures. Some people used to use plastic from the boxes Ferraro Rocher comes in . I used Krystal Klear to stick mine in, by the way.Comment
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You can disguise the edge thickness by painting edges black mate. Gets rid of that mirror silvered effect to a certain extent. After all, the glass is set in a rubber surround anyway.Comment
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..... And there was me just having an interesting catch up....:flushed:,
Very unusual for you to give up on a build Scottie,(even if it is only for a short time), although once a model becomes a chore, it's best to take a step back..... after all, it's supposed to be fun, not a drag :thumb2:.Comment
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Cheers Neil.
..... And there was me just having an interesting catch up....:flushed:,
Very unusual for you to give up on a build Scottie,(even if it is only for a short time), although once a model becomes a chore, it's best to take a step back..... after all, it's supposed to be fun, not a drag :thumb2:.Comment
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I hope you take a second go at those window parts. It's looking so good with all the work you've put into it.Comment
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