Decal disaster

[Neil]

I had a disaster with some decals last night - for the record, Eduard decals are a LOT thinner than Airfix ones! - suffice to say I managed to mangle two major decals. I have ordered a set of replacement ones from Hannants, but I already have bigger decals down and dried on so I need to get them off or covered before I start afresh.

So what is the best way to remove them? The model is painted with klear on to put the decals onto, do I scrape them off with a toothpick or just paint the whole thing again? Just wondering whether that will work with klear underneath. I could primer again but already have 3 thinned layers on so if I repeat I'm sure it will start to lose detail.

On the slightly positive side, no hint of silvering!

Neil

[Guest]

What did you use to put the decals down with Neil ?

I just use water and would use water to remove. But is you have used the micros then use them to get the decals off.

Interested to find how you went about it Neil. I very rarely use Micros. I put the decals face up and give them a light coating of water with a plant sprayer. Just enough to dampen them. If necessary I spray a little more. i do not steep them in water. Wet the plastic, sometimes, and slide, with the paper backing laying on the plastic, directly onto the plastic virtually into the final position. If necessary I use a slightly wetted brush to edge the decal and smooth the edges.

Laurie

[stona]

If you haven't sealed the decals then your best bet is to try to remove them with sellotape or similar. You might be able to soften them with a setting solution or white vinegar.

You can use more aggressive methods to soften decals, but run a very high risk of b*ggering up the paint.

If you resort to scraping them off you will almost certainly have to re-spray the paint.

Cheers

Steve

[Neil]

I have a tub with a sponge. Water seeps through the sponge, so put the paper backing onto that until it dampens the paper and the decal moves slightly. I dab decalfix on with a cotton bud afterwards but that doesn't seem to be softening them. I may try painting over one to see if that cover it OK.

Usually I soak them (airfix and tamiya) but I saw Stona's advice on sponge so tried that which does work, I think the problem was twofold, first that the plastic was dry, and second I was trying to move them with a cocktail stick, Because the plastic was very dry, they pretty much stuck in-situ, and I should have used a paint brush like I usually do.

I just tried with a couple of spare decals (like I ought to have done in the first place) and wet the front of the decal on the sponge rather than the backing paper, used a paint brush to move them and they slide off the paper without the paper sticking to the plastic that way in a much smoother way. Oh well, lesson learned

[Guest]

Another thought is you might try wet and dry very fine grade wrap a piece around a cotton bud. If the new decal is going to cover the area providing you are careful you stand a chance. In the past I have also used a long blade sharp Morton to carefully scrape.

I would not paint over it Neil you are just going make the problem worse.

Just an observation. You are better wetting the backing. If you wet the decal front on it is waterproof you will have to soak well at the edges to be able to wet the centre especially on large decals. Wet the backing and as that is the bit to be removed.

Laurie

[Neil]

Laurie,


well as I said, I tried earlier wetting the front and it is better for Eduard - they soak through extremely fast - I just checked and for a small piece of decal card, placed on the damp sponge, the paper soaked through to make a moveable decal in 2 seconds from the back to the front. I timed it I think that was a contributing factor, it was very quick to unstick from the paper. It was late, I was rushing, etc etc, it really was a disaster waiting to happen anyway.


Thanks for the tips though, it looks like I will get away with it as I had already gently sanded it and looking better. Now just have to wait for the new decals and it is a valuable lesson to practice new techniques where it doesn't matter first


Neil

[Guest]

Just an observation. You are better wetting the backing. If you wet the decal front on it is waterproof you will have to soak well at the edges to be able to wet the centre especially on large decals. Wet the backing and as that is the bit to be removed.


Laurie

Hi Laurie, I have not yet applied decals but will be doing so in the near future. I have purchased Humbrol DecalFix and the instructions say to soak the decal in it and also brush some onto the model, position decal on model and brush more over it, leave overnight to dry. Is this really good advice? Does this mean cutting the wanted decals off the card one at a time, or soaking the entire card even though I would not be doing them all in one go?

[Guest]

Hi Laurie, I have not yet applied decals but will be doing so in the near future. I have purchased Humbrol DecalFix and the instructions say to soak the decal in it and also brush some onto the model, position decal on model and brush more over it, leave overnight to dry. Is this really good advice? Does this mean cutting the wanted decals off the card one at a time, or soaking the entire card even though I would not be doing them all in one go?

There is no best way Keith. I suspect if you watched 20 people on this forum they would all have variations.


My way. No decal mixtures at all unless I get into trouble ie if the decal has not or will not settle down into position.


Also even though I use water I have no problem in getting the decals to follow into panel lines etc. Just to add that decals from different manufacturers are all different. Some from the same manufacturer will also be different. Airfix new types are different from the old models.


My way. Decal backing paper up. a very light spray of water.Test to see after a period if it is slipping,you do not want it sliding, from the paper backing.


Just a very minimum of water on the model in the decal area. Lay backing with decal on the model on the final position but a millimetre to one side. Then carefully with a finger or something blunt tease the decal onto the model. Hold the decal there and drag the backing away carefully.


Final position if out of place a wet paint brush to carefully edge. If you are unlucky and it is drying just wet around the edges of the decal. Smooth out with a wet brush if necessary.


If you have a lot of work to do around after fixing the decal worth then putting a decal fixer on. But I first make sure the decal is dry and in its correct position as there is no going back.


Forgot. To avoid silvering where the light goes through the decal edges and then reflects back form the paint under a good gloss varnish is necessary. This ensures that all the decal, you hope, is in contact with the varnish avoiding flash back.


To avoid silvering as much as possible, despite the gloss varnish, I cut off , where practical, the clear borders.


Laurie

[aaron]

I remove decals with tape rubbed over them then pulling the tape and decal up.

[aaron]

Oops Steve answered with the same way I do, sorry.

[Guest]

I remove decals with tape rubbed over them then pulling the tape and decal up.

Just add make sure your paint film is good as if you have used decal fix it could take the paint with the decal.


Laurie

[Guest]

There is no best way Keith. I suspect if you watched 20 people on this forum they would all have variations.
My way. No decal mixtures at all unless I get into trouble ie if the decal has not or will not settle down into position.


Laurie

Once again many thanks Laurie. I will try your way with just water and try another one using DecalFix. It will be interesting to see if I can tell any difference between the two. I will be gloss varnishing first to provide a good fixing base for the decals. Cheers


Keith

[flyjoe180]

Hi Laurie, I have not yet applied decals but will be doing so in the near future. I have purchased Humbrol DecalFix and the instructions say to soak the decal in it and also brush some onto the model, position decal on model and brush more over it, leave overnight to dry. Is this really good advice? Does this mean cutting the wanted decals off the card one at a time, or soaking the entire card even though I would not be doing them all in one go?

DO NOT soak the entire sheet in the solution! Work with individual decals Keith. I soak in water for 30 seconds, leave the decal for a bit on tissue which absorbs excess water and apply the Decalfix to the model in the area the decal will be positioned. Then slide the decal off in place, dab any excess solution/water off and leave it. If you wanted to you can apply Decalfix over the top again; the advice to leave it overnight is sound and you should do this.

[Guest]

DO NOT soak the entire sheet in the solution! Work with individual decals Keith. I soak in water for 30 seconds, leave the decal for a bit on tissue which absorbs excess water and apply the Decalfix to the model in the area the decal will be positioned. Then slide the decal off in place, dab any excess solution/water off and leave it. If you wanted to you can apply Decalfix over the top again; the advice to leave it overnight is sound and you should do this.

Thanks for the clarification Joe.