right, so after abortive efforts with decal fix, I shelled out for both of these products. I followed the instructions, and now it's dry, I can see, when holding it up to the light, that it has partially worked. Part of the decal looks painted on, but a few areas still shine . My question is, can I apply more to a dried decal, to finish the job, or have I messed it up?
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you havnt messed up......slap some more on (and use plenty...dont be tight with it) and leave it over night.........if you are gentle you can manipulate the decal with a brush but be careful cos they do get a bit fragile
the shiny thing often happens, to me at least...you might need a gloss or matt coat on top, depending on what you are building of coursePer Ardua
We'll ride the spiral to the end and may just go where no ones been -
Ta, will give it a go.Comment
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A reasonably stiff brush can help Microsol bed down John, as can a cotton bud moistened with it & jabbed against the decals - just be careful as Microsol can loosen decals & cause your carefully positioned decals to #@*&ing move!Comment
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I use a small stippling brush to beat them into shape with.
Pushing them into any detail is OK. Dragging a brush across them is a no no.
Its in the name. Micro SOL as is solvent. it softens the decal Get to heavy handed and you risk pulling it to bits or distorting it.
If the shine you write of is the clear part of the decal looking silverish. put some decal set on and stab the decal with a needle so the solution can get under the film.
Ian MComment
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Yup, that's my fear! I don't know if it's just one of those "I remember when it was all fields" things, but I don't remember ever having difficulty with decals when I were a lad! They have, however, been a bit of a stumbling block in this reincarnation
. I found Decalfix to be very aggressive on my paint surfaces if I had the temerity to have to move stuff around too much. At least this stuff seems much better on that front. Oh well, onwards and upwards eh?
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I like the idea of beating them into shape! 'Course, if I was a real man, I'd mask them off and spray themOriginally posted by \
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I tend not to touch decals once they've been treated with a setting solution as I've had bad experiences doing so.
I have managed to force recalcitrant decals to conform using a warm hairdryer. I emphasise warm! Too hot and you'll be starting the entire model again. You can get really close if you use some common sense.
As others have said, you can make several applications of setting solution. I regularly treat even compliant decals three or four times over a 24 hour period to get them snuggled down.
Cheers
SteveComment
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Not sure what your problem is John. But here goes on what I have found successful.
First the paint needs to be as flat and smooth as possible and to receive a coat of a varnish of some sort in gloss. This is in order, hopefully, that every part of the underside of the decal will touch the varnished surface. any part which does not will allow light thro to the varnished surface which will reflect back causing what is described as "silvering".
This is my decaling way. Cut off as much of the permiter which causes the silvering. That is the clear plastic border.
Place paper up and spray water on the paper just enough to release the decal from the paper. The idea is to wet and soften the backing not the decal.
Wet the varnished surface a little. Place the decal and backing virtually in place onto the varnish flat just a little to one side of the final position ie a little off set.Then carefully slide the decal just that distance you have offset onto the varnish. Gently hold the decal in place and gently pull the backing away. with luck you should then be positioned correctly. If not a large soft brush with water gently edge the decal that last move into position. Brush any water gently form under the decal (this should be minimal unless it is over soaked).
Used this method for about 3 years and had good results (except last model the Gladiator and nothing would save those rubbish decals).
I have used Micros before the above method and just found them more of a problem than a help as they disintegrate the decal. I use them now only when I have a problem with the above. Water will not wreck your decal. Poor positioning and lots of moving them around will.
Lots of members may not agree with my method. But all the decal on this Wessex were placed just with the method above. This includes the black decal with the blue lines which wizzed around in every dimension possible. Micros were used only on one stubborn roundel. All the decals sank into the panel lines which on this model were quite large. Most times the panel lines are half the size. There was no silvering except for the one decal which eventually settled down with a Micro coated a number of times..
Laurie
[ATTACH]105968.IPB[/ATTACH]
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Sorry Laurie, but you will never get a decal to conform to rivet detail like this using only water.
[ATTACH]106004.IPB[/ATTACH]
Nor will you get a decal to conform to a complex curved surface like this (work in progress!)
[ATTACH]106005.IPB[/ATTACH]
It's why various setting solutions have been used for years. I agree that having a smooth gloss surface to start with is probably the single most important element for achieving good results with decals, but the setting solutions are indispensable tools in the quest for that 'painted on' look.
Cheers
Steve
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First Steve I have not stated never to use the Micros ! I did say---Originally posted by \
I should have made the point perhaps a little more clear using my method in place of the above quote " I carry this out until if the decal will not absolutely conform to the background then I will resort to using Micros. Best not to use a Micro unless the decal is in it's absolute final position".Originally posted by \
This shows a decal which was attached with water. The photo is not so hot but it was taken about 2inches from the surface by hand on steps on a Wessex hanging from a shelf in poor lighting. But I survived. I think it does show what you can do with just water.
Laurie
[ATTACH]106007.IPB[/ATTACH]
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I agree with both Laurie and Steve micro sol/set are used in awkward situs like rivets and curve but I use the warm water way and it works 9/10 times but it also depends on decals as the cheaper kits can have rubbish decals or old kits you buy off evilbay
Regards
RobertComment
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