Decals

[Guest]

Hi all, back into modelling after 25 year break, never used to do them properly but gonna try my best. Never used a forum either, might have many questions as I'm basically a newbie, hope this is the right place...anyway I've bought some revell decal soft and was wandering if it is advisable to use this before applying the decal i.e. on the model first and a coat after on top of the decal or do I need another type for under/over? If that makes sense, sorry if a stupid question. Basically will this revell decal soft do both? Thanks, Billy.

[dave]

Welcome to one of the friendliest forums around.


I have never used revel decal soft, but someone else can probably correct me if I am wrong. I normal use micro-sol and micro-set and presume the revel decal soft works in a similar fashion to micro-sol.


I normally do a coat of gloss varnish ( humbrol clear) and then dampen the area for the decal with micro-sol add the decal, pat dry with a tissue and the brush with micro-sol and allow to dry. Repeat the micro-sol until the decal is tight to the surface. Then a last coat of micro-set.

[Guest]

Ah right thanks dave, so I will need a setting solution too. I was hoping that the decal soft removed the need to use the gloss varnish before applying the decal. think I read that somewhere, what do you think?

[Guest]

I use microsol and set and humbrol decal Fix. I soak the decals in decal Fix if I use that and brush the model too. Does a good job. As does the microscale stuff


Welcome to the forum. Definitely the friendliest

[Guest]

I have not used that make either but I have just discovered that if I wet the surface of a glossed model with water and washing up liquid ie ash tray full of water with just one drop of washing up liquid in it this stops the water from beading on the model then apply decal it allows it to slip and slide for correct placement then roll a q tip over it to push the water out then use your stuff ontop with a soft brush don't work it just lay it on and let it dry on it's own

[rickoshea52]

I use Humbrol decal fix, similar to your revell stuff, and it works well on surfaces with little or no detail. There is a useful video on YouTube by Humbrol on how to use it. I've tried microsol and don't get on with it.

[stona]

Ah right thanks dave, so I will need a setting solution too. I was hoping that the decal soft removed the need to use the gloss varnish before applying the decal. think I read that somewhere, what do you think?

First of all welcome aboard!


To answer that question, you may or may not get away with it.


Essentially the dreaded silvering, where the decal carrier film becomes visible, is caused by microscopic air bubbles under the decal. There is a much higher likelihood of this occurring on a rough, matt, surface than on a smoother gloss one.


Your decal soft is a solution which will soften the decal film allowing the decal to conform more closely to the surface of the model, hopefully to get that painted on look we all want. There is no guarantee that it will prevent silvering. You might be able to mitigate silvering by piercing a decal with a needle or the end of a scalpel blade and flooding it with a decal solution, but again, there is no guarantee. It's far better to get it right initially and that's why I always recommend a gloss coat of your choice. It's only one more step in the process and the final desired finish can be achieved with a final coat of a suitable varnish.


@dave.


I use the Microset/Microsol system myself. It's the blue bottle (MICROSET) which should be brushed onto the model. A dilute solution of white vinegar will serve the same purpose of softening the decal film slightly. The red bottle (MICROSOL) is the one that should be applied later and is a stronger solvent. It's one, or several, applications of this which will get that decal snuggled down.


Two words of caution.


First, although Microsol is not the strongest solution available it can be too much for some decals. I always test on an unwanted decal from any decal sheet to make sure it won't destroy the ones I intend to use on the model. If there is a problem you can always dilute the solution with water. I'd recommend this no matter which of the decal solutions you are using. This is a lesson I learnt the hard way!


Second, the blue Microset bottle looks a LOT like the bottle that the Liquid Decal Film comes in. You do not want to splosh this on your model instead of Microset unless you really want to start painting again! Another lesson learnt the hard way!


Cheers


Steve

[dave]

@dave.


I use the Microset/Microsol system myself. It's the blue bottle (MICROSET) which should be brushed onto the model. A dilute solution of white vinegar will serve the same purpose of softening the decal film slightly. The red bottle (MICROSOL) is the one that should be applied later and is a stronger solvent. It's one, or several, applications of this which will get that decal snuggled down.


Two words of caution.


First, although Microsol is not the strongest solution available it can be too much for some decals. I always test on an unwanted decal from any decal sheet to make sure it won't destroy the ones I intend to use on the model. If there is a problem you can always dilute the solution with water. I'd recommend this no matter which of the decal solutions you are using. This is a lesson I learnt the hard way!


Second, the blue Microset bottle looks a LOT like the bottle that the Liquid Decal Film comes in. You do not want to splosh this on your model instead of Microset unless you really want to start painting again! Another lesson learnt the hard way!


Cheers


Steve

Thanks for the correction Steve, I will take it onboard. I haven't come across any problems with decal compatibility but only used Eduard, Airfix and Tamiya since returning to modelling proper (rather than painting war games figures). Is there any particular manufacturers decals that cause a problem?

[stona]

Is there any particular manufacturers decals that cause a problem?

Personally I've had to go easy on decal softeners with some decals from older Hasegawa kits (not sure who made the decals) and also decals from Techmod. This is NOT a criticism of the decals. Techmod do some very nice decals, but some are fragile and need treating with care.


On the other side of the equation are decals that are more like vinyl and won't submit even to strong decal softeners. I remember the ones from the original Tamiya 1/32 Spitfire kit being like this. If they are still the same I'd chuck them and by some aftermarket decals or, even better, masks.


Cheers


Steve

[Guest]

Nicely explained Dave thanks, it's about the surface being smooth, and since I've brush painted it (not too smoothly ha) i'll definitely be getting the humbrol clear, and the micro set eventually. I have got an aerosol of humbrol acrylic varnish as a finisher, which I thought I could spray all over and use as a smoother, (would that work?) and obviously again when it's all done, a bit o.t.t. I know but the problem is I'm trying to use what I already have as getting time to go to the model shop (and the cash) is short. Billy

[Guest]

Correction: nicely explained stona, also thanks to everyone who has replied. Billy

[Guest]

Right, went to the local model shop to get micro sol and microset, they'd never heard of it but suggested humbrol decalfix which they said works like microset and microsol in one. Got humbrol satin varnish as it is somewhere in between matt and gloss (is that right?). I've used enamel paints on the current model (free with airfix gift set so think they are enamel) but my next model and the one i'm really looking forward to is a tamiya model and I've got tamiya acrylic paints but I've just read that decalfix ruins acrylic paint jobs. Will the pre-satin varnish before the decal application protect the acrylics? and the same for enamel paint jobs? Starting to lose heart as I've heard/read so many conflicting opinions about decal solutions I may use just water like I used to when i was 10 ha. Any advice would be appreciated, thanks Billy.

[Guest]

Just my opinion but I would get your model as glossy as I can then put decals on then Matt coat or satin after decals I use humbrol Matt coat last and it never turns out Matt it's still a bit shinny and no setting solutions won't affect your acrylics or your enamels as long as they are cured acrylics dry hard in 24 hours enamels can take ages by there nature they get harder and harder just my opinion though PS welcome aboard