Photo Etch

[Guest]

Tried using photo etch last night for the first time with limited success. I thought the best adhesive to use would be PVA but this takes an age to set and has low adhesive properties I found. Also tried CA which was good but certainly didnt allow me time to correctly posistion.


Think I may need a CA adhesive which will allow me to re posistion the photo etch not quite being an instant adhesive if this makes any sense. Further I see that CA adhesives are available in many forms from thin liquid to almost a gel. I generally use Loctite 495 Universal and this is very watery (oh and its free from my place of work !!! ).


Can anyone reccomend a better suited adhesive for photo etch please.


Cheers

[Guest]

I use Gator Glue which is a PVA glue but it serves me well. Allows for positioning with good adhesion. It's also relatively 


inexpensive

[Paul Davies]

I use loctite super glue. The one for metal I find is the best. Not sure what number it is. It allows for a bit of movement untill pressure is applied.

[Germanjim]

I use vitalbond it comes in three types thin, medium and thick I like the thick one best it gives you almost a minute to work with it also is a gel it also keeps for a long time


.                                 Jim

[Ian M]

Gator grip glue is very good for things that lay flat on top of another part, as you can move it a round a bit and clean up with a wet cotton bud. (while glue is still wet).


Things that need building up, gluing along an edge and the such, super glue or if you are in the grove, solder! 


The best help for CA glues is to use some form of applicator. John has a few to chose from in the shop.


I normally just use the ordinary everyday cheap stuff!


Soldering is not the impossible task you might think. Even I can do it. lol

[Guest]

I use CA glue thin but I seen one of the guys mentioned Gator glue, There's a video on U Tube about it using this product and photo etch. It adheres well the tackiness and the drying time is 10 mins or so, Seems like a product worth checking out. I'm fairly new to photo etch myself so forums and videos are a real help. Happy Modeling.  

[Guest]

i use this super glue





or this one (with activator)





all the writings are in turkish but it is Henkel brand, i am sure you can find them in your countries

[Ian M]

I use CA glue thin but I seen one of the guys mentioned Gator glue,

Just so you know it is also great for clear plastic. Also there are two very different types with similar names. The one you want is Gator grip glue which is PVA base. The other which I think is just called Gator glue is an expanding polyurethane woodwork adhesive. Great for wood work, total crap for models... LOL

[Snowman]

Rocket CA glue - thin, medium & thick. The Thick gives you about 10 -20 secs. ^_^

[Guest]

Just so you know it is also great for clear plastic. Also there are two very different types with similar names. The one you want is Gator grip glue which is PVA base. The other which I think is just called Gator glue is an expanding polyurethane woodwork adhesive. Great for wood work, total crap for models... LOL

Thank Ian M for the update. Glad to know that way I won't get the wrong one.

[Guest]

Alan you will find as I did that a great help is provided by two items which hold the PE. If you look in John;s shop in PE. The first is the Photo Etch Placer. A pencil which has, I think, a waxy centre. For small items this works well. But keep it sharpened when about to use as the wax dries on the end after a period.


Second are the Micro Stickies. Two one very sticky the other not so. If you use them only press hard enough to just pick up. These are best used with the larger pieces.


On sticking PE I read that it is best to sand the rear surface as it gives a key. Use it now and it works well. Best to find sand (1500  gauge) sand the whole of the fret in one go rather than separately. If an attempt is aborted with glue on the rear of the PE scrape off as it will make life easier on the next attempt.


On adhesives |Rocket Card Glue I have found to be better than PVA although I think PVA is probably in it. But like PVA I have found it fragile plus working on say a fuselage with multiple PE bits it is so easy to knock off. Also I fine sand the front of PE (before painting to get a good paint adhesion. Forgot make sure the plastic has been finely abraded.


The most used for me is a Zap CA Thin it is thinner than water. But it is quick so you need a steady hand with the stickies or pencil above. Also a cotton bud to quickly wipe excess drops. Slight overspill is ok a beauty of the thin CA is that it flattens out and does not show as a lump under the paint film. Not a hard rule for me, depends on circumstances, but it is best I have found to apply adhesive to the PE. Rocket rapid is good if you need just a little more time to place the PE says 5 to 10 secs but about 25 secs is about it.


As Zap Thin CA wicks I have in difficult circumstances had to lay the PE dry and wick around. Not tried it but I wonder if that works with rigging..


Last good idea to practice with cut offs from the fret. Found that good for both bending and sticking.


Stewart