What to use when sealing/protecting between coats?

[Guest]

Hello all,


I'm just wondering what gloss you all use as the protection layer before putting decals on?


I will be using acrylics and do not own an airbrush.


Also, what matt finish do you all use before weathering?


Thanks.

[Guest]

You'll get a different answer for every modeler on this one, Martin. I do 1/72 WW2 aircraft, and my way is:


- Humbrol Clear as gloss coat (sometimes two coats to get a good shine)


- Apply decals


- Another gloss coat to seal the decals


- Do any washes on the gloss coat/decals


- Winsor and Newton Galeria Matt Varnish to seal everything in.


I use the Flory water-based weathering washes to bring out the panel lines. I slap it on willy nilly, then wipe off with a damp paper towel so it just stays in the panel lines. I find this has to be done over a gloss coat, otherwise it doesn't wipe off properly. The only weathering I do after the matt coat is if I want some really dirty exhaust stains. For that I use artists' charcoal, ground up and gently dusted on with a soft brush, and it sticks best over a matt finish.


This works for me, but I do use an airbrush. Maybe someone who uses a brush (some people on here get great results with a brush) will be along soon.

[Guest]

You'll get a different answer for every modeler on this one, Martin. I do 1/72 WW2 aircraft, and my way is:


- Humbrol Clear as gloss coat (sometimes two coats to get a good shine)


- Apply decals


- Another gloss coat to seal the decals


- Do any washes on the gloss coat/decals


- Winsor and Newton Galeria Matt Varnish to seal everything in.


I use the Flory water-based weathering washes to bring out the panel lines. I slap it on willy nilly, then wipe off with a damp paper towel so it just stays in the panel lines. I find this has to be done over a gloss coat, otherwise it doesn't wipe off properly. The only weathering I do after the matt coat is if I want some really dirty exhaust stains. For that I use artists' charcoal, ground up and gently dusted on with a soft brush, and it sticks best over a matt finish.


This works for me, but I do use an airbrush. Maybe someone who uses a brush (some people on here get great results with a brush) will be along soon.

Cheers Doug. I'm mainly asking because with me only using brushes, I'm not sure what gloss or matt to use. This is my first tank build and paint so I'm new to a lot of things.


I know most people who own airbrushes would just simply use that to do their gloss/matt finishes.


As for the weathering washes, I've read a lot about the use of water-based washes as they're forgiving if you make mistakes, which may come in handy with me being new to it all 

[Guest]

I (and I think most people) do exactly what Marty1507 says, except I use Tamiys varnish in a spray can, both gloss and matt.


It is important to have a good gloss coat, two if necessary, before applying decals, otherwise you will get silvering under the decals (caused by tiny pockets of air) which is almost impossible to remove. Also, it is important to apply a gloss coat over the decals if weathering is to be done, otherwise, with a matt finish, the weathering will adhere strongly to the matt surface, into the tiny hollows that every matt surface has, making it difficult to reduce the weathering effect immediately after applying by, for example, as Marty1507 said, wiping some off.

[Guest]

Marty agree as above with two coats of Humbrol Clear. Put Humbrol Clear into search and a Humbrol video clip will come up showing how to use with both Airbrush and hand brushing. You may with hand  brushing, as you will get a thicker coat, be able to reduce to one coat. That is providing you end having a good gloss surface.


I use the Vallejo Acrylic Matt over the decals prior to applying effects. This varnish is perfect for hand brushing as it is for airbrushing. Not found any difficulty with wiping away unwanted wash. Found that Lifecolor is the best for effects. These are of course very personal choices like all things your prefered way comes after much experiment and experience. 


On washes with a brush it depends on what you want. The main point with hand brushing is to keep the wet edge wet pulling it down in sweeps with a loaded brush. Otherwise you will get streaks. A good artist will pull the wash down the paper without touching the paper.


Stewart

[Guest]

For brushing, may I recommend Winsor &Newton acrylic Matt UV varnish? Ok, it's not the cheapest around, but you do get a bottle that will last you years, and it works beautifully, both out of the bottle, and thinned with a drop of water. For gloss, I've always used Humbrol Clear, again, no dramas. What is important when brushing varnish, is to use a soft, flat brush and a gentle touch, to ensure a good surface. Finally, a mention must go to Mig's Matt varnish. I've just been trying it out, and it has the best Matt finish of all of them, in my opinion, too Matt for some purposes, but great for having that extra flat surface when you need it!

[colin m]

a mention must go to Mig's Matt varnish

I use that as well, and it is good. I changed after tiring of Vallejo's white spots in their matt varnish.

[BarryW]

Colin I am convinced that when I got white spots it was dust from kitchen roll.  Once I made sure that I tore off a supply of sheets well away from my spray area and then waiting for any paper dust to settle, I stopped getting the white spots.

[Dave W]

I use that as well, and it is good. I changed after tiring of Vallejo's white spots in their matt varnish.

I had the same problem with Vallejo Matt.The first bottle I used was good. The next two gave white patches on the model.I tried decanting the bottle and mixing it thoroughly, even adding some Vallejo thinner. I won't touch the stuff now after ruining a couple of models. I now use the Alclad gloss and Matt clear coats. Perfect results every time.

[colin m]

I had the same problem with Vallejo Matt.The first bottle I used was good. The next two gave white patches on the model.I tried decanting the bottle and mixing it thoroughly, even adding some Vallejo thinner. I won't touch the stuff now after ruining a couple of models. I now use the Alclad gloss and Matt clear coats. Perfect results every time.

Interesting Dave, are they acrylic ?

[Guest]

I apply decals straight onto the dried paint, I apply Tamiya Decal adhesive where I want to place the decal first. Then Apply Mark Fit after an hour to make sure the decal really sticks to the surface. After a few days I seal it all in Alclad II Matt Coat, or Future FLoor Polish, or a Varnish I use called Helmar Klear Kote - which is a Sheen affect. For panel lines I do them straight on the paint, as I paint with enamels I use Vallejo Model Acryllic washes over the enamel coats.