Modelling Drill

[stillp]

By the way i just received in the mail a bit that i ordered..... i think they made a mistake with the size......:smiling::smiling::smiling5::smiling5::s miling5::smiling6::smiling6::smiling6::tears-of-joy::tears-of-joy::tears-of-joy::tears-of-joy::tears-of-joy::tears-of-joy:[ATTACH]319833[/ATTACH]

You'll struggle to get that in your Dremel!

Pete

[JR]

Dear sir.
We have at our local branch the following drill that may well suit your purpose.
[ATTACH]319855[/ATTACH]
As you can see , perfect operator working , water cooled, no plastic melting.
Can be seen working.
Yours The Rightway plastic drilling company.

[SimonT]

Steve

I was going to recommend the one Jim has posted - I have their original one which has a separate transformer/speed control

As Jim says they do go right down to zero rpm

Como

[JR]

Steve, joking apart. :smiling2:
Surely Its down to pressure with such small shanked bits as you have shown. I've used my Dremel 3000 with care when I wanted to drill a number of holes. Simon and Jim are spot on about a slow running version, it has to feel light in the hand, have a good chuck system.
The down side for me with the pin vise is the start, I seem to press to hard and snap the bit !
John.

[Jim R]

One thing I find helps when drilling holes is to mark the start position with a "dimple". I use a large pin with a round head.
[ATTACH]319911[/ATTACH]
I find I can position the pin point accurately and the big head lets me press to make a mark. The drill does not tend to slip then.
Jim

[Guest]

Does this help Steve?

[Steve Jones]

.

[JR]

One thing I find helps when drilling holes is to mark the start position with a "dimple". I use a large pin with a round head.
[ATTACH]319911[/ATTACH]
I find I can position the pin point accurately and the big head lets me press to make a mark. The drill does not tend to slip then.
Jim

That's a valid point ( Not an intended pun either) Jim, this is where my drills snap as I press to hard to get started. I will use this method next time, cheers.
John.
John.

[Mini Me]

It doesn't matter what method you use if you apply too much pressure and your drill bit is not perpendicular to your work surface it is a recipe for disaster. Everything else is subjective.
Rick H.

[Guest]

Hi Steve I don't know what you do with your broken drill bits but if you have one of these and have lost any of the pins you can replace them with the drill bits.[ATTACH]320031[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]320032[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]320033[/ATTACH]
How to stop losing pins in future use a plumbers olive to hold the pins.[ATTACH]320034[/ATTACH]
Just an idea hope it helps.
Pete.

[Mr Bowcat]

Steve, what size are the shafts on your bits? Tamiya do a small battery powered drill that will take up to a 3mm shanks: https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/Model-Bui...ill/B000J46WZ4

[minitnkr]

The pin thing works great, but I also graduate the bit sizes to help things along if brittle plastic or cursed resin. Heating the pin a bit helps w/harder plastic too. I also store the eighties & seventies in a chunk of beeswax to lube them as I used to break a lot of them. PaulE

[Jim R]

Thanks Paul
Some good tips there. Particularly like the bees wax idea.
Jim

[stillp]

I was talking to a Dremel rep at an exhibition today, he told me that all their drills have a minimum speed of 10 000 rpm, except the 400 series corded, which is 5 000. He couldn't offer any suggestions for achieving a lower speed. I think I'll rig up a mains socket with a series diode - that used to work with the old thyristor speed controllers, not sure what it'll do to my Dremel though.

Pete

[Steve Jones]

That's way out of my comfort zone I am afraid Pete/PaulE but a terrific idea which I am sure will be picked up by the other modellers here. Thanks for the link Bob I will have a good look at that one

Thanks for all the input guys. Much appreciated