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  • Guest

    #1

    Model kit glue

    I know this will have been asked many times. So here goes which liquid glue is best to build ones models. Is Tamiya liquid any good.
    Sorry for the silly question.
  • zuludog
    SMF Supporters
    • Mar 2015
    • 239

    #2
    There are several brands of liquid glue on the market, and IMO they are all much of a muchness as far as actually sticking parts together
    Tamiya and Mr Hobby have finer brushes and I would choose either of those
    So yes, Tamiya liquid glue is OK

    Comment

    • Guest

      #3
      Thanks zuludog for the help. :thumb2:

      Comment

      • AlanG
        • Dec 2008
        • 6296

        #4
        I have a few different glues for different things.

        Superglue and Gators Grip Acrylic for PE and aerial wires
        Micro Kristal Klear for canopys/clear parts
        Mr. Hobby Cement S and Revell Contacta for general modelling

        Comment

        • Guest

          #5
          Originally posted by AlanG
          I have a few different glues for different things.

          Superglue and Gators Grip Acrylic for PE and aerial wires
          Micro Kristal Klear for canopys/clear parts
          Mr. Hobby Cement S and Revell Contacta for general modelling
          Thanks Alan the advice is a great help. :thumb2:

          Comment

          • zuludog
            SMF Supporters
            • Mar 2015
            • 239

            #6
            Here are a few comments on my way with glues -

            Liquid glue is simply a solvent which will dissolve polystyrene. When it is applied to a joint it dissolves the surface of the parts, which mix & mingle with each other. When the solvent has evaporated the parts will be stuck together
            In use you hold or tape the parts together, then apply liquid glue to the join, and the glue flows along it by capillary action. For smaller parts you apply a small drop with the brush
            The disadvantage is that if you apply too much glue/solvent it runs all over the place; you just have to learn by experience

            Tube glue is liquid glue/solvent with clear plastic dissolved in it to make it thicker and prevent it running too much. This is the stuff that's often called 'polystyrene cement' by the kit makers
            The disadvantage is that it is difficult to apply in small quantities
            It is less popular now among experienced modellers, but I still like it for large parts, like fuselage halves and wing - fuselage joints

            I make up my own mixture by dissolving a few pieces of clear sprue in a bottle of liquid glue. This makes it a bit thicker than 'pure' liquid glue, but nowhere near as thick as tube glue
            I like it for small parts as it performs very similar to liquid glue, but does not run as much; just apply a small drop with the brush

            That means I have 3 types of polystyrene glue - tube, liquid, and my own mixture
            All these glues are intermiscible in any proportion, so you could, for example, empty an old tube of glue into a bottle of liquid glue if it's leaking or stopped sealing very well. It will, of course, make the liquid glue a bit thicker
            You can buy liquid glue in bulk - well, bigger than the usual 40 ml or so bottles - and top up a brush-bottle

            I like Tamiya and Mr Hobby, mainly for the bottles - they are squat and less likely to tip over; the brushes are fine; and they do not have those frustrating and irritating child proof caps

            Micro Kristal Klear. This is a good quality PVA glue. It can be used to make small windows, and also to attach canopies without their being damaged by polystyrene glue
            The disadvantage is that it's a bit slow setting

            Search YouTube for 'scale modelling glue' There are several videos which discuss the types and demonstrate the techniques, though I haven't watched them all

            I make rigging and aerial wires from stretched sprue, applying them after painting. Polystyrene glue will not stick to painted surfaces, so I use Kristal Klear to attach them

            I don't use photoetched or any other metal parts

            Comment

            • AlanG
              • Dec 2008
              • 6296

              #7
              Originally posted by zuludog
              I make rigging and aerial wires from stretched sprue
              EZ Line is far easier to use

              Comment

              • Guest

                #8
                For the Dutch people in the audience only, I suppose:



                €7.50 or so for 250 ml, and glues just as well as liquid cement that costs a similar amount of money for 30–40 ml.

                Comment

                • zuludog
                  SMF Supporters
                  • Mar 2015
                  • 239

                  #9
                  The most commonly used polystyrene solvent is methyl ethyl ketone, often shortened to MEK, also known by its more modern name - butanone

                  You can find it quite easily on t'Net, typically around £6 to £8 for 500ml and £10 to 13 for 1l; then you're into real bulk quantities - 5l, 10l, 25l, etc

                  When my current bottles run low I might just buy 500ml, that should keep me going for the forseeable future

                  Comment

                  • AlanG
                    • Dec 2008
                    • 6296

                    #10
                    Originally posted by zuludog
                    The most commonly used polystyrene solvent is methyl ethyl ketone, often shortened to MEK, also known by its more modern name - butanone
                    You would be also wise to point out that MEK is VERY flammable and also VERY toxic. The vapours can cause you a lot of damage to your nervous and breathing systems. MEK was the replacement Trichloroethane or Trich as it's known (now banned). Ventilation is paramount and the use of a recognised vapour mask is also advised. I am saying this as i have a first hand knowledge of just how bad MEK is. I was placed on oxygen because i was overcome by the vapours. I was also witness to an explosion when MEK vapours ignited due to a static discharge. It's not a liquid to be messed with.

                    Comment

                    • JR
                      • May 2015
                      • 18273

                      #11
                      Originally posted by AlanG
                      You would be also wise to point out that MEK is VERY flammable and also VERY toxic. The vapours can cause you a lot of damage to your nervous and breathing systems. MEK was the replacement Trichloroethane or Trich as it's known (now banned). Ventilation is paramount and the use of a recognised vapour mask is also advised. I am saying this as i have a first hand knowledge of just how bad MEK is. I was placed on oxygen because i was overcome by the vapours. I was also witness to an explosion when MEK vapours ignited due to a static discharge. It's not a liquid to be messed with.
                      Al , top man, I'm glad you pointed this out, I would have ordered some had I not read you timely post. As an asthmatic it would have probably finished me off ! :surprised:
                      Thank you .
                      John.

                      Comment

                      • yak face
                        Moderator
                        • Jun 2009
                        • 13841
                        • Tony
                        • Sheffield

                        #12
                        Originally posted by Jakko
                        For the Dutch people in the audience only, I suppose:



                        €7.50 or so for 250 ml, and glues just as well as liquid cement that costs a similar amount of money for 30–40 ml.
                        At last someone else who uses thinners . Ive been using cellulose thinners as a liquid glue for years . I get a 5 litre tin for about £15 ( this will last me years and years) then decant some into an old marmite jar then apply it with a reeves synthetic hair brush , it sticks in just the same way as any proprietary liquid cement by melting the plastic . Obviously thinners can be a bit smelly but in the small quantities no more so than any other liquid cement. Click image for larger version

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                        • BattleshipBob
                          SMF Supporters
                          • Apr 2018
                          • 6799
                          • Bob
                          • Cardiff

                          #13
                          I use to use tamiya thin but got banging headaches. Now using Deluxe materials plastic magic, comes with 2 brushes, normal and thin, works well and the thin brush is great . very little smell but does evaporate quickly

                          Comment

                          • Guest

                            #14
                            I have just bought some Tamiya extra thin which should be fine for my modelling. Thanks for all the information regarding glue liquids. :thumb2:

                            Comment

                            • Bortig the Viking
                              SMF Supporters
                              • Mar 2019
                              • 780

                              #15
                              After reading all this about odour etc I opened my Tamiya glues, thin and extra thin, new unopened, wow all I can say my wife had to pick me up off the floor, it stinks really bad, guess that's why it's difficult to get outside of Japan, for me anyway.
                              I'm gonna try deluxe as other stuff I have is low odour. Bit off the subject but why do tamiya paints also have a strong odour.

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