Been looking at the various solutions to help with decals so they fit the contours of panels etc but all I have managed to do is confuse myself with which to get, so I was wondering if you guys could point me in the right direction please.
Decal help
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Guest
I’m fairly positive everyone will recommend micro sol / set.
Whether you need both is open for debate I suspect! -
I use Microsol and Microset. But John posted a solution in the shop that does both. I have yet to try it but i like the look of it
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Guest
The best I have used & by far the best of the Micros & others.
Daco Products Decal setting. Brush the product on. You think that it is not doing its job. Come back
in half an hour & the decal has taken up the contour & deep contours.
The beauty of this stuff is that it does not wreck the decal which I have found the Microsols can do.
3 strengths are produced. But I only use the strongest & not had any problems with it.
For the decal placing I lay the decal down on a Tamiya decal board face down. Just give a fine
squirt of water no need to douse as that will lose the adhesive on the decal. Reluctant give another
squirt.
Slide the decal on the spot. Best not to wet the model just use the adhesive on the decal to slide
& adjust into place.
Wait for the decal to dry out before using DACO. If necessary, unusual, repeat a Daco coat.
LaurieComment
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Guest
I too would recommend Micro Sol. I’ve also got a bottle of Micro Set but hardly ever find it to be useful — that is to say, I don’t really see what it does that the decal’s own glue doesn’t as well. Micro Sol, though, definitely does work very well to get decals to conform to compound curves and to fit over or into detail.Comment
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I use sol and set as well. I find Set makes it easier to place the decal, putting it on the model first, then when it’s dry I use Sol to make it conform to the surface. Always thought Sol smelled like dilute acetic acid (vinegar) so I’m not surprised Barry’s tip works....Comment
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Some decals take longer to soften depending on the latex ink content of the decal,all of these solvents are acetic acids in highly diluted form,they all work by soaking through the inks but obviously some decals are tougher than others ! remember to place a puddle underneath the decal first so it works upwards as well,then flood from the top,but remember do a test piece first on an old paint hack model to see how evasive the solvent is,best of luck.Comment
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Guest
Some decals take longer to soften depending on the latex ink content of the decal,all of these solvents are acetic acids in highly diluted form,they all work by soaking through the inks but obviously some decals are tougher than others ! remember to place a puddle underneath the decal first so it works upwards as well,then flood from the top,but remember do a test piece first on an old paint hack model to see how evasive the solvent is,best of luck.
It has a pungent smell but definitely not vinegar Daco actually state that but not what
it does contain.
Daco also reacts in a different way to Micros & Vallejo types. Forgot to mention it above
in most cases remarkably Daco strong removes silvering with just the one coat. One of
the Vallejos, cannot remember which one is also quite good at de silvering.
LaurieComment
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I have always used Mr Decal Softener and it works for most decals. The only set back is that it reacts to Future and turns it white wherever it puddles. Its only a short scare as it disappears when a coat of Future is applied over it.
I don't use setting solutions as that's just the adhesive similar to white glue.
Cheers,
RichardComment
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