Working with White Metal

[bilbo]

The Kit form services kit that I am currently building has a large number of white metal parts. White metal is not something that I have worked with in the past so I'm unsure as to how to prepare it and work with it.

Do I just use files/sandpaper to remove the seam lines and flash - if so are there any good ones to buy?

Any watch outs for working with white metal?

Thanks,
Dom.

[Guest]

I usually scrape off the seams like for plastic — the metal is normally soft enough that you can do this easily. Else, fine files should do the trick.

After removing the mould seams, use a copper-wire brush to get the crud off the parts so they shine. There is usually a white/grey layer of mould release agents, talcum powder, oxides, and other stuff on white metal parts that will prevent glue from adhering well to them. If you leave this on, you’ll find that the glue sticks to this layer and not to the actual part, making the bond much more fragile than it needs to be.

Small parts you can glue with superglue, for bigger and heavier ones, or those that will take the weight of other parts (like the suspension of a tank kit), use two-part epoxy instead, but be sure to support the parts while the glue sets else they may sag and you’ll be very far from home.

[Dave Ward]

Dom,
white metal is pretty malleable, so you can cut/scrape with a knife. A set of miniature needle files is pretty useful - they don't have to be expensive. White metal is a generic name for ( usually ) tin/lead alloys - zinc & antimony can also be used, but it is generally soft. Lead can be toxic, so care must be taken when handling. I use 2-part epoxy mainly for fixing. It is pretty heavy for it's size, so support is needed whilst the glue is drying. It's essential to use a good primer/filler before painting. . It's use seems to be declining, as it is rather expensive & because extra equipment is needed to heat & handle the castings. Resin is generally used now - it can be all done at room temperatures
Dave

[Ian M]

It's use seems to be declining, as it is rather expensive & because extra equipment is needed to heat & handle the castings. Resin is generally used now - it can be all done at room temperatures

And not to mention the 'elf and safety brigade have a dislike for any thing to do with lead..!
If you are brave you can also solder the stuff. Carr's make solders that melt at quite low temps. If you have a soldering iron with temperature control it is very doable and a hell of a lot quicker than epoxy and or superglue...
Just remember to test the melting point of the White metal and buy a solder that melts way below that of the metal you are soldering.
Been there got the T-shirt. lol

[bilbo]

Jakko, Dave, Ian - thank you for your replies - I hadn't thought about cleaning the metal - so will add that in to the mix as well, Whilst I have a soldering iron its very much on or off, so I'm more likely to end up with a pool of molten metal vs some soldered pieces.

Dom.

[minitnkr]

It's not my favorite material, but it is pretty easy to work, so better workability than resin. All the above is good advise. I use surgical glovesI & Zap-a-Gap green CA. PaulE

[Guest]

And not to mention the 'elf and safety brigade have a dislike for any thing to do with lead..!

White metal used for model and wargaming kits generally hasn’t used lead for a couple of decades. You can tell the difference quite easily, especially if you have two identical models: those from before about the turn of the century tend to be noticeably softer than more recent ones.