Dealing with particularly fragile parts.
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Guest
Working with just the photo, I do not know what tools you have to hand.
Sanding strips can be made with various grades of wet'n'dry paper and thick plasticard. Cut a length of card, cover one side with double sided tape, peel off the covering one length at a time and add the wet'n'dry - or you can use foam board or even buy them.
To work
Turn the sprue over so that the ejector pins are facing up. Then with a new blade in your knife gently cut as close to the part as you can, and then gently clean up the cut area, you can also remove that part of the sprue to give you room to work. And then just work your way around the part. Speed is not the issue, take your time. With the other four parts just carefully seperate from the sprue and then clean up after. Hope this helps.
Mike. -
Hi, I agree with the above. I would recommend a good pair of nippers either Tamiya or DSPIAE, I use both they are a bit pricey but in my opinion worth it, they give a crisp cut so less cleaning up. As for the cleaning up I use sponge Sanders and sheets, varying grades and you can cut to size you need, all depends if you are on a budget or can throw some money at it, if you are just starting. Most important part have fun and take your time, no prizes to being first.Comment
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I used to use Mike's method - cutting with a sharp knife. Being a ham-fisted oaf I still managed to break a few parts so I got myself a cheap set of sprue cutters. Poor cutters just tear through the plastic rather than cutting it cleanly and can damage parts if you cut too close, so then I invested in a set of Xuron cutters. Expensive but they work for me so that was my solution.
PS Mark posted while I was writing so my comments echo his thoughts.Comment
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Hi Nick
Echo Mike, Mark and Dave. Patience is the key to cleaning up fragile parts. Take it slowly and think about where the part is being stressed and support it accordingly.
Tamiya sprue cutters and a new blade are really useful.
Jim
Another thought. A very fine razor saw can be used. JLC Razor Saw is excellent and Tamiya do a couple of very fine saws in a kind of photo etch frame.Comment
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All good advice from the blokes. I would normally cut the main frame of the sprue off first then with that out of the way cut as close of the attachment as you can to the part but leave just a little to be sanded or cleaned up with a blade. Sometimes the pressure from the cutter may snip off more than wanted if you cut flush with the part.
Cheers,
RichardComment
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Just another tip. When removing small parts put the sprue inside a plastic bag so if the part flies off when you cut it you wont loose it.SteveComment
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Thanks for all the great responses. I have a reasonable selection of tools and sanders. I seem to find that when I'm attempting to clean up parts like this I get a load of vibration which threatens to snap the part.
Slow and steady it is then. I'll let you know how I get on.
Cheers,
NickComment
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Guest
The trick to the piece not breaking is mainly to prevent twisting forces and sudden release of tension, of the kind you get when you cut through the sprue attachment points with a knife or cutters. For that reason, I normally saw fragile parts loose instead. Use a fine-blade razor saw, or better yet, a razorblade saw (a razorblade shape with teeth cut into the sides that are normally sharp) and make careful cuts through the thin part of the sprue close to — but not touching — the part. Then clean up with a sharp knife, file, sandpaper, or whatever you like.Comment
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I tend to clean up the part as much as I can while on the sprue. Mold seams get scraped with a sharp blade. If the attachment is fine I use clippers if they are thick a razor saw.Comment
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I've found that the scissors on my Swiss Army Knife are pretty good for thin parts like this too, but the razor saw idea is probably the best.Comment
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