Gliding clear parts

[Defiant911]

I have been glueing some of my clear parts with humbrol clear fix. i have found on several occasions in particular when masking windows I have managed to push the windows into the airframe.
the glue never seems a very strong fix and when the windows push in it can be a nightmare to retrieve.
has anyone else had this issue and are there better alternatives other than thin glue?
carl

[Guest]

I had exactly the problem you described last week when readying an Airfix C47 for painting so I'm looking forward to more responses in this thread. I've been pleased with Clearfix but I realise it is not a strong glue, although that attribute did come in handy when I recently removed some masking to discover a masking tape slither stuck to the inside of the canopy. I was able to easily remove the canopy, remove the tape and reattach it.

I used to use PVA glue for clear parts which works OK but it takes a long time to set and the join strength is probably a little weaker than Clearfix.

[Guest]

Humbrol ClearFix isn’t very strong, no, so you have to be somewhat careful when handling the model if you’ve used this to glue in windows. Does the Tamiya glue frost clear plastic? Easy enough to test on a bit of clear sprue, and if not, you can use that just fine.

[Defiant911]

Humbrol ClearFix isn’t very strong, no, so you have to be somewhat careful when handling the model if you’ve used this to glue in windows. Does the Tamiya glue frost clear plastic? Easy enough to test on a bit of clear sprue, and if not, you can use that just fine.

I think it depends how much Tamiya thin glue you use. If you are very careful using the capillary action then the glue is so thin it only really gets glue on the very edge of the part so even if it is frosting the effect is generally hidden behind even the slimmest of frames. It does frost though if you get it directly on the clear parts so you have to be careful with it. That said, even the clear fix glue leaves a visual imperfection if you get it on the main clear part, it.may dry clear but you can see the glue so it’s debatable whether even that would be a acceptable.
as you say Jakko, handling is very important but occasionally youhave a momentary lapse.

[stona]

I use G-S Hypo Cement for all my clear parts.

It describes itself as a medium strength cement, but it makes a strong bond, you will struggle to remove a part in one piece once it has set. It also allows some wiggle time and I have never stuck myself to the bench, model, chair or neighbour's cat when using it.

It is like a thin gel and easy to use.

https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/gs-hypo-cement

Other retailers are available.

Edit: I should have said, definitely no fogging of the clear parts.

Cheers

Steve

[JR]

I use G-S Hypo Cement for all my clear parts.

It describes itself as a medium strength cement, but it makes a strong bond, you will struggle to remove a part in one piece once it has set. It also allows some wiggle time and I have never stuck myself to the bench, model, chair or neighbour's cat when using it.

It is like a thin gel and easy to use.

https:tongue-out3:/www.cousinsuk.com...gs-hypo-cement

Other retailers are available.

Edit: I should have said, definitely no fogging of the clear parts.

Cheers

Steve

Steve, like the part about the cat ! :smiling2:

[Defiant911]

I use G-S Hypo Cement for all my clear parts.

It describes itself as a medium strength cement, but it makes a strong bond, you will struggle to remove a part in one piece once it has set. It also allows some wiggle time and I have never stuck myself to the bench, model, chair or neighbour's cat when using it.

It is like a thin gel and easy to use.

https:tongue-out3:/www.cousinsuk.com...gs-hypo-cement

Other retailers are available.

Edit: I should have said, definitely no fogging of the clear parts.

Cheers

Steve

Sounds good, a tube is on order..

[Dave Ward]

I've been using this, from John https://www.scalemodelshop.co.uk/pro...materials-ad55 does what it says!
Dave