Outdoor Model Mancave

[Gern]

Alan.
Sounds a great idea, agree with Dave about the insulation and electrics.
Putting insulation under the floor is well worth the additional expense. You can get foil back thermo board in various thicknesses.
Although it would increase the height of your floor so much heat is lost through the floors of sheds .

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Like Tim says heating is a must, I have one of those electric oil heaters set on frost free during the winter time. Keeps the cave damp free, and just turn it up if I plan to be in there. With mine I have 100 mm between the ceiling joists then plasterboard.
Walls have 50 mm then plaster board. I was pleased to find how little time it takes to get the temperature up to a pleasant working condition.
Where the cost may add up at the start, in time you will be glad that you did it .
Good luck .

Wot! You gonna waste that perfectly good dio base just for measly insulation!? You're as bad as those folks who use Klear for floor and furniture polish!:anguished:

Get the rolls of fibreglass stuff instead.

[Ian M]

You can get a solar heater made for sheds and summer houses that are for keeping them frost free (and up to 15 - 20 degrees C ) work a bit like a heat exchanger. once installed they are free of running costs.
Just need sunshine....... Hmm maybe not that good an idea where you live Al. lol
Best suggestions are run a power line and water. If not to far away connect to the drains.

[AlanG]

It'll have mains power as standard. But i did think about a solar heater. Also if i'm honest those little power turbines you get for caravans. Because we get quite a lot of 'breezy days' up here, i think i could have a battery system installed. Cost is going to be the main factor with things. But i think i could get the wood direct from a sawmill (we have a few up here) for about £1000. Obviously i'll be doing the build myself so that cuts costs. But having looked into a company purchased one, i'd be looking at the best part of £2500. Tiny bit of saving there.

[KarlW]

If you're doing wood damp proof, damp proof, damp proof.
Shed companies have you building on pre-cast conrete blocks, then they can sell you a new shed in 10 years.....a properly installed and maintained shed should last 40 years plus.
Before settling on a metal shed my plans for a wooden shed involved concrete piers and dpc and the joists still being ground contact rated.
A mate also made the mistake of having a concrete slab base for his shed bigger than the sheds footprint, this allowed it to collect rain, ideally the shed should overlap the slab, if you go that route.

[AlanG]

I was going down the concrete base bigger than the shed footprint. My reasons are that a mate of mine did the same thing but as the concrete was drying he placed 'runs' of wood in it from centre to outside edge (getting slightly deeper the nearer the edge) to allow drainage channels to be made for rainwater. Obviously removed them before the concrete was totally set. Worked wonders.

[Guest]

But i think i could get the wood direct from a sawmill (we have a few up here) for about £1000.

Crikey. Just the OSB for mine is touching half of that amount. Then there's the actual timber for the frame, the cladding, insulation, plasterboard, breather membrane, vapour barrier, EPDM roof, doors, windows. More garden room than shed though I guess.

[AlanG]

would love to see a build log if/when it goes ahead.

Might just do that. I'll stick it in the 'other hobbies & interests' section

[AlanG]

Not using OSB for the side Andy. Going to be sawn 19mm planks which are then routered to make tongue & groove. Makes nice sealed sides.

[Guest]

Sounds good Alan. I don't think my (bought) T&G shed was put together that well. I sit there when it's raining watching the water run down the inside of the walls from the gaps between the boards. Quite unnerving given what's in there!

[AlanG]

Was planning to put either sealant or wood glue in-between the T&G. Hoping that would help keep the rain out especially in windy conditions.

[JR]

A better bet would be ship lap Alan


This gives a better protection against the weather. The idea of not gluing is to allow the wood to expand and contract. If you were to use a slightly damp timber and then glue or seal when it dried out it could split.


As to the concrete base a dpm barrier on concrete would work , but eventually the timber will rot.


I'd suggest lifting the wood off the concrete and placing blue engineering bricks with the dpm strip on top of that, with the timber on top. The bricks would be the outline for the timbers and could be cemented into place.
All great fun, If I lived nearer I'd come and give you a hand.:smiling3:

Short of digging foundations and having a block wall like in the photo above the way mentioned would be the quickest

[AlanG]

Shiplap would send the costs rocketing though. I know it would be better but cost is a factor and i cannot get that from the sawmill. Although i suppose i could find out how to router it myself.

[JR]

Shiplap would send the costs rocketing though. I know it would be better but cost is a factor and i cannot get that from the sawmill. Although i suppose i could find out how to router it myself.

Well cancel the ship lap, you'd need a spindle moulder to do the job properly, and plenty of track to keep the board flat and tight to the cutterblock. If you can by in the T&G use that. If its fitted well and nice and tight you should have no problems, but I'd not recommend gluing as I said before.

[AlanG]

Thanks for the advice John. Really appreciate it. Building the frame is the easy part. The sides are the hardest to figure out. So anyone with advice on better materials/techniques is most welcome.

[JR]

Your more than welcome Alan, If you have any plans , just rough would do Id like to see the roof over hang and style you could pm me