Making your own cases.

[KarlW]

Anyone make their own acrylic display cases?
Can get some 2mm sheets pretty cheap so thinking of having a go.
Any tips on cutting without melting, glueing, butt joints or mitred joints?

[Guest]

When I was in school (that was ca. 30 years ago), we had this nifty perspex bending tool, essentially a long heated wire in a groove in a metal plate. Something like that seems ideal: cut a rectangular sheet and bend it in two places so it can stand over the model, then glue on two more flat pieces for the ends.

[KarlW]

When I was in school (that was ca. 30 years ago), we had this nifty perspex bending tool, essentially a long heated wire in a groove in a metal plate. Something like that seems ideal: cut a rectangular sheet and bend it in two places so it can stand over the model, then glue on two more flat pieces for the ends.

Yeah we had one too, made casings for fuse testers with them. Also how menu holders are made.
The fold in clear perspex would be a narrower than the rest so a bit of grinding would be required I think. Food for thought

[Neil Merryweather]

You CAN score and snap 2mm acrylic (if you score deeply enough with a hooked scriber), but you will still need to polish the edges through the grades with wet & dry and then T-Cut before gluing.
Personally, I would find a place with a laser cutter and give them a cutting list, then just butt-joint together with UV glue. the laser cutter gives a reasonably clean edge which will need minimal polishing. Make sure it is cast acrylic, not extruded.
We have them professionally made out-of-house at work, because even if you have the kit and you know what you're doing(and we do) it's a hell of a faff to get a neat job.
They are not cheap, but then it's not my money.............
good luck

[KarlW]

They are not cheap,

Only thinking of giving it a go as I can get the acrylic cheap, then again I might not, didn't think of UV glue and happen to have some. Trying to decide if it'll be nore faff than it's worth, but then I learnt to weld just because I wanted to add shelves to an Ikea deltof display case.......

[Neil Merryweather]

Only thinking of giving it a go as I can get the acrylic cheap, then again I might not, didn't think of UV glue and happen to have some. Trying to decide if it'll be nore faff than it's worth, but then I learnt to weld just because I wanted to add shelves to an Ikea deltof display case.......

Well,why not then- faint heart never won fair maid, as they say!

[Mini Me]

Too bad you cant get your hands on some Lexan. You can actually bend it up in a press break or box and pan break. No heat required.

[Guest]

You CAN score and snap 2mm acrylic (if you score deeply enough with a hooked scriber)

I did just that with a Tamiya plastic scriber some years ago when the hinged part of an old plastic skylight in the loft had blown off in a storm, to make a panel to glue into the resulting opening. It worked just fine, though like you say, you need to score deeply enough, it worked just like doing the same with plastic card.

[skinflint]

From the builder of superb model miniature ship models, Bob Wilson, shows this on how to make your own display case.

http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=102323

[KarlW]

From the builder of superb model miniature ship models, Bob Wilson, shows this on how to make your own display case.

http:tongue-out3:/www.shipmodels.inf...p?f=4&t=102323

Ta very much.

[outrunner]

Not sure if this is the right place, but it is about display cases.
The cheapo case I ordered came today so I gave it a try with the some of the models that would fit.
[ATTACH]398780[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]398781[/ATTACH]
I really should have put something behind the case when taking pictures to make it stand out more from the rubbish on the bench.
[ATTACH]398782[/ATTACH]
The Bumerang just fits in but for something to keep the dust at bay it's fine. The case cost something like £13 delivered and having priced up acrylic sheet cut to size and full sheets, tools, glue etc I doubt if I could make a case for that amount.

Andy.

[JR]

Looking good Andy, esp the Dozer as you could have some vegetation around it.
Pity the size of a dio's I build are normally too big, so would you mind saying where from please.

[outrunner]

John, not sure if Ebay links are allowed here so PM sent.

Andy.

[JR]

Thanks Andy.

[Peter Gillson]

Hi Karl

i'm a bit late coming to this but hopefully i can help. Hereis a photo of a perspex case I made about 10 years ago when my son wanted to keep some stick insects:


It worked - no stick insects escaped.

the perspex was from B&Q and about 3mm thick. We tried various ways of cutting it, such as a band saw, or jig saw. In the end we found that scoring it with a very sharp Stanley knife 4 or 5 times allowed it to snap. If in doubt score more than you think you need to!

I am not convinced it would be easy to get nice clean edges so used 'L' shaped wood for all of the corners which hid the edges of the perspex. My other hobby is woodworking so I made these form some old oak I had, but diy shops such as B&Q have a large stock of "L" shaped wood.

The 'proper'way of building it would be to make the wooden frame and then add the perspex glazing. I cheated and glued the perspex to the wood as I went so that the perspex is a structural part of the case. the process i would use for a rectangulae case is:

1 - cut out all 5 pieces of perspex
2 - cut four lengths of wood and glue them to the rear side piece of perspex.
3 - cut the 3 lengths needed for one of the sides
4 - glue the pespex to one end of the rear piece already made
5 - add the other 3 pieces of wood
6 - repeat steps 3 to 5 for the other side, the front and top.

for the base I used some plywood edged with some wood so that the above-made top can fit inside it.

one thing to remember - each corner is a 2-way 90degree corner and both edges need to be cut before gluing the perspex. It will be a whole lot easier if you have a 45 degree mitre block and a good sharp saw.

Peter