Which model glue

[Tarps]

I know this has probably been mentioned many times. There are loads of different brand model glues available, can anyone suggest a good glue to use as I plan my first tank build.

[KarlW]

What can you get locally?
Also depends on how you like to apply it. I prefer Tamiyas brush applied glues, though still use the tooth paste tubed humbrol from time to time. (You can use a toothpick for precision application.)
I never got on with the Revell needle applicators, but I know some think they're the dogs danglies.
Whatever you get ensure it is for plastic, and use sparingly, they work by melting the plastic so use too much you eat away parts.


Now cue a lot of different answers.........

[Tarps]

Hi KarlW is Tamiya extra thin glue any good as I can purchase this.

[KarlW]

I think so, and I know few disagree.
And a wee tip, the brush has a telescopic section so can reach the bottom of the pot.

[minitnkr]

Have used Testors tube & liquid since forever. Have tried others, but remain unconvinced. PaulE

[Steven000]

I really like the Tamiya extra thin, that small brush inside works great for me, the only problem for me is the smell, use it in a well ventilated area!

As a kid I used the Revell needle, the needle was always blocked when I needed to glue so pretty frustrating I remember. In that case you can detach the needle and burn out the glue in a flame.

Have fun!
Steven

[Guest]

Like all things in model making there is never a definitive answer. All depends on circumstances. Actually they are not glues as is C/A. The cement acts as a weld only plastic to plastic.

I use for a greater percentage Mr Hobby Cement S It takes about 20secs for it to go into hold (not cure) I use it for tacking around the fuselage (also wings etc) at intervals holding each tack with fingers to get a very firm accurate joint. Being thin it can wick into a thin joint. Find it is OK as long as a really strong joint is not needed. It does not mark the plastic surface. The short hold time makes it perfect for tacking.

For stronger joints I use Tamiya Extra thin. This takes about 40 secs to go into hold. Good for joints which are a bit wider as it softens more than the Cement S which with pressure brings the joint together. It will pit the plastic if laid on more than is needed. Also perfect for taking finger prints.

For a really strong joint I use Tamiya Cement. I apply this to both surfaces before bringing together. Softens up the surfaces before bringing together. Not for wicking as it is too thick & will pit the surface making a real mess.

Tip to stop tipping over & a mess. I place a piece of hook Velcro on my worktop in a couple of places. Each cement bottle I place on the bottom loop Velcro.

Laurie

[Tarps]

Hi and thanks for the advice on glues.:thumb2:

[Dave Ward]

Revell Contacta - for heavy duty joints - like turret halves - the needle applicator works for me, and Tamiya Extra Thin for everything else polystyrene. Add to that Loctite CA, and PVA white glue, and you've got all bases covered. ( Although I occasionally also use 5 min. epoxy )
Dave

[Guest]

...the brush has a telescopic section so can reach the bottom of the pot...

Yeah....totally knew that.

Although I just tried it out and it still doesn't reach the bottom, so the old 'two pots' scenario will continue!

[dave]

From my side i use Revell Contacta most of the time. Where parts can be taped together, such as fuselage halves i use Tamiya extra thin and use capillary action to draw it into the joint. For PE i use CA and clear parts I now use one of the stronger PVA formulations.

[Tim Marlow]

Basically I use the same methods as Dave.
I too use contacta most of the time these days. If you find the nozzle too uncontrollable, dispense some glue onto a scrap of card and use a pin to accurately place the glue. If you suffer from nozzle bloc, use a short piece of picture framing brass wire to clear the nozzle. Always put the cover back on if you are not dispensing the glue so you minimise drying in the nozzle.
I have both Tamiya glues, but have yet to open them
I use EVA occasionally as well, because it can be dispensed with a fine brush and will wick into a joint under capillary action. I used to use Mek Pak as my glue of choice for many years, but slaters changed the formula which made it less effective, and additionally it’s not easy to get now. There are others, such as Daywat Poly, that are much “hotter”, so can melt parts if you’re not careful. Useful occasionally though.
For other glues Cyanoacrylate is useful, but not a universal panacea. I find it’s shear strength is quite low so parts are fragile. Two part epoxy is unrivalled where strength is needed. Lastly, good PVA can also come in handy for attaching clear parts.
Over all though, I think in the end it comes down to what you get used to!

[Guest]

I’ve mentioned it before, but I glue plastic kits with what amounts to an industrial solvent:

[ATTACH=CONFIG]n[/ATTACH]

The Dutch and French translate as “degreaser, also thinner for Bison Kit” (which is a contact cement); in English it’s marketed as a stain remover. Its main constituents are naphtha, ethyl acetate and methyl ethyl ketone (MEK), so it dissolves model kit plastic like liquid cement does, but it costs about as much for 250 ml as a single bottle of model cement does. I therefore just re-fill an empty bottle of that with it.

[Tim Marlow]

That looks very like Mek Pak Jakko . The Naptha content is probably why I can’t find it any more....I bet it smells like pear drops as well.....

[PaulTRose]

i must be the odd one out then cos i use CA for almost everything........i buy the thick sort, use a tooth pick to apply