Which model glue

[Guest]

That looks very like Mek Pak Jakko . The Naptha content is probably why I can’t find it any more....I bet it smells like pear drops as well.....

I must admit I have no idea what pear drops smell like, but it does have a very distinctive smell, yes. Not one I can describe, though

[Tim Marlow]

They were a popular sweet from my early youth. A bit like sweet cough medicine if I remember correctly...extremely distinctive. They were banned/modified to remove the ethyl acetate.....

[BarryW]

It is very much 'horses for courses' and it is not just about a single glue/cement but different ones for different jobs. I use the following:

For well over 90% of plastic to plastic my preference is Mr Cement S. It is an extra thin type such as Tamiya Extra Thin but, in my experience, better than the Tamiya. It is applied to a 'dry' join so capillary action draws it into the join and meld the plastic together. It grips very fast. Another type of extra thin that I find excellent (using at the moment) is Ammo Mig's. This type of cement is ideal because it means that you can precisely position parts before applying cement meaning a cleaner joint and no risk of smudging, just dont use too much. With large pieces I use pieces of masking tape or clamps to hold the parts together in the right position and then apply small amounts of cement between the tape/clamps making sure that you keep the cement well away from these. After a minute or two I remove the tape/clamps and then run a brush of the cement along the join. It evaporates from the surface without damaging it.

Sometime you do need a slower drying cement, it is for those odd situations when you cannot apply cement to a join and need to apply it to a mating surface instead. Often this is for small parts that you are positioning in odd places. For this I use Mr Cement DeLux but another good one is the Mig Ammo slow drying cement.

For attaching clear parts and avoid fogging it is best to use a white glue such as Gator Grip (my preference). This is also useful for photo-etch flat panels. There are sutuations when I use Mr Cement S for transparencies, when there is a good 'frame' that will be painted but overall it is best to use white glue for this. Micro Krystal Klear is also good for transparencies.

For attaching resin and some p.e. then c.a. glues are useful. I use three types, thin, medium and thick. Each type has it uses.

There are two other types of glue that more rarely has uses. Two part epoxy and the new types that cure with a UV light. I have these but rarely use them but they are good to have in your armoury.

I would recommend using https://www.scalemodelshop.co.uk/
to source your glues/cements and a lot more. It is run by John who owns this site and he provides a first class service.

[stona]

Tamiya Extra Thin for most plastic, though on the harder compositions like that I've come across in Zoukei Mura kits I use EMA Plastic Weld.

I use bog standard CA glues (superglue) both thin and the gel types from supermarkets or similar. Don't buy expensive model specific CA glue, it's a waste of money. All CA glue goes off once exposed to air (well, technically the water in the air) and few will ever use a full container before this starts to affect the glues performance. I've never done so even building resin kits.
You can extend the life of the glue by keeping it in the fridge, unfortunately the Fuhrerin vetoed this option in my case, despite my well argued and factual argument, based on my old chemistry degree. For some inexplicable reason she was totally unimpressed with my knowledge of the relationship between rate of reaction and temperature!

Some kind of white glue is a must, I often use it for P-E parts which require a bit of wiggle time. At the moment I've got some Gator's Grip 'Acrylic Hobby Glue' on the go, which is very good, but there are cheaper options.

I use G-S Hypo Cement for clear parts. It's an easily manageable gel with a fine applicator, allows some wiggle time and sets to a strong bond in about a quarter of an hour. I've been using the same tube for years, so if you look after it you won't be buying much of it.

Finally, I have a two part quick epoxy handy. I rarely use this on models, I think I may have used it on a dodgy undercarriage recently, but it's a useful thing to have. It is also useful if you drop your mug and break off the handle :rolling:

[Isitme]

Kevin,
I use liquid cement from EMA Model Supplies, the bottle come with a secure cap and is then wrapped in kitchen towel and stood in an old mug along with an old or cheap paint brush.

[Bugatti Fan]

I also use Plastic Weld from EMA Supplies. It is a great liquid cement that not only sticks polystyrene, but ABS, and acrylic plastics as well.
Most modellers develop an 'armoury' of adhesives like Super Glue (various consistencies), Epoxy, Tamiya Fast Flowing Liquid Polystyrene Cement, Good Old Polystyrene Tube Cement, Contact Adhesives. Best try different ones to find what suits you best.

[Bobby Conkers]

I am very lazy and sausage-fingered, so it's thin superglue with brush applicator all the way for me. Gorilla glue do one which also has a pinprick applicator, but I find Loctite's one works best. Evostick do one, but the bristles catch on the bottle neck and warp quickly which is a problem very rapidly.

I can keep CA going for months once opened just by keeping it in a resealable drugs bag with the air sucked out. I don't handle any of my models so CA gives easily strong enough a bond. I just checked the one I last opened in March and it's still half full and as thin as a new bottle - no gloops.

Problems - scars nastily so brush control is essential for me. Also, never use on clear parts!

[stona]

I can keep CA going for months once opened just by keeping it in a resealable drugs bag with the air sucked out.

That's a good way of prolonging its life. Stick it in the fridge and it will last even longer

[adt70hk]

Tamiya Extra Thin for most plastic, though on the harder compositions like that I've come across in Zoukei Mura kits I use EMA Plastic Weld.

I use bog standard CA glues (superglue) both thin and the gel types from supermarkets or similar. Don't buy expensive model specific CA glue, it's a waste of money. All CA glue goes off once exposed to air (well, technically the water in the air) and few will ever use a full container before this starts to affect the glues performance. I've never done so even building resin kits.
You can extend the life of the glue by keeping it in the fridge, unfortunately the Fuhrerin vetoed this option in my case, despite my well argued and factual argument, based on my old chemistry degree. For some inexplicable reason she was totally unimpressed with my knowledge of the relationship between rate of reaction and temperature!

Some kind of white glue is a must, I often use it for P-E parts which require a bit of wiggle time. At the moment I've got some Gator's Grip 'Acrylic Hobby Glue' on the go, which is very good, but there are cheaper options.

I use G-S Hypo Cement for clear parts. It's an easily manageable gel with a fine applicator, allows some wiggle time and sets to a strong bond in about a quarter of an hour. I've been using the same tube for years, so if you look after it you won't be buying much of it.

Finally, I have a two part quick epoxy handy. I rarely use this on models, I think I may have used it on a dodgy undercarriage recently, but it's a useful thing to have. It is also useful if you drop your mug and break off the handle :rolling:

I managed to get the CA stored in the fridge with a well reasoned argument. I just make sure it's hidden in the door on a little used shelf. I also make sure they stay behind the food jars!!

[Bobby Conkers]

That's a good way of prolonging its life. Stick it in the fridge and it will last even longer :smiling3:

The Enemy would have something to say about that. I once put my Preparation-H spray in the fridge, she lost her sh*t. Which is more than I could admittedly.

[Tim Marlow]

Don’t sweat it Bobby. At least she didn’t find your blue unction in the freezer....