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Hi murfie , the pur youre referring to is more commonly known as just resin . Its used a lot for aftermarket parts and a few makers ( such as special hobby ) use it for more detailed parts. Its easy to cut/ shape BUT the dry resin powder generated by cutting parts from the pouring block / sanding is a respiratory irritant so a mask is essential while doing this . Wet sanding is therefore recommended and a razor saw for removing parts from the block . As for glueing , just plain superglue is the best thing , plastic glues having no effect at all . Hope this helps , cheers tony
Hi murfie , the pur youre referring to is more commonly known as just resin . Its used a lot for aftermarket parts and a few makers ( such as special hobby ) use it for more detailed parts. Its easy to cut/ shape BUT the dry resin powder generated by cutting parts from the pouring block / sanding is a respiratory irritant so a mask is essential while doing this . Wet sanding is therefore recommended and a razor saw for removing parts from the block . As for glueing , just plain superglue is the best thing , plastic glues having no effect at all . Hope this helps , cheers tony
Thanks, Tony. That's extremely helpful. I knew about epoxy resin parts but the PUR reference had me confused. I do have a good mask to wear when sawing parts. Most of them are easily cut with a model knife but some of them need sawing off a base block. Appreciate your help.
You only need to be careful about dust โ slivers, like you get when you cut or scrape polyurethane resin, arenโt harmful (unless you get them in your eye, I suppose ). For this reason, I saw, file and sand it as little as possible but prefer scribing with a knife to separate smaller parts from the sprues, and scraping to clean them up.
For glueing them, you can use superglue. For really big and heavy parts, two-part epoxy glue is better, but for everything else, superglue works fine.
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