Need help with PE, its driving me nuts!!

[BattleshipBob]

Afternoon

I am desperate for help with my continuing major problems with PE

I just cannot get it to stick correctly, i clean it, rough it up place it etc

I use either a cocktail stick or thin wire to apply the CA, the PE goes on and looks ok, leave it too set but hey presto i just have to touch it by accident or look at it and it drops off. I end up putting to much CA which looks terrible

I had a nightmare adding the skirt brackets onto the stug, thought it had stuck but just touched it and it all fell off, really had to control my temper, its making me dread going anywhere near PE.

Can somebody suggest anything, PLEASE!!!:confounded:

[spanner570]

Can somebody suggest anything, PLEASE!!!:confounded:

Leave the stuff well alone!

[scottie3158]

Bob,
The only advice I can offer is to do what you already seem to do. I always wash the etch in hot soapy water and rinse well. Then with the tip of a sharp blade try and scratch both the etch and the point on the kit to give a good key. Then only use a tiny amount, the more CA you use the less likely it is to stick. If you need to re glue it always remove the old CA as it will not stick to itself. When it is in place wick a small amount of CA around the joint. Any excess can be scraped away when it is dry. Finally always use a good quality CA, and keep it in the fridge when not in use this will help it's shelf life. HTH

[BattleshipBob]

Leave the stuff well alone!

Wish i could, most of the ships kits i have or bougth all have PE, the next ship after KGV came with PE as well

Would like to know where i am going wrong!!!!!

[Nicko]

I can't help Bob, but sorry to hear it especially as it was starting to look so good. I'll happily pick up any tips that are forthcoming.

Nick

[BattleshipBob]

Bob,
The only advice I can offer is to do what you already seem to do. I always wash the etch in hot soapy water and rinse well. Then with the tip of a sharp blade try and scratch both the etch and the point on the kit to give a good key. Then only use a tiny amount, the more CA you use the less likely it is to stick. If you need to re glue it always remove the old CA as it will not stick to itself. When it is in place wick a small amount of CA around the joint. Any excess can be scraped away when it is dry. Finally always use a good quality CA, and keep it in the fridge when not in use this will help it's shelf life. HTH

Thanks Paul, much appreciated

I have some spare bit so wil have to practice and then some more!!

[AlanG]

I find that CA can sometimes be brittle when applied in a small amount. I've often wondered if using a grab adhesive such as Evostik or No-Nonsense would do a better job.

[BattleshipBob]

I find that CA can sometimes be brittle when applied in a small amount. I've often wondered if using a grab adhesive such as Evostik or No-Nonsense would do a better job.

Hi Al, well i hope

Never tried white glue, think its pva?

[AlanG]

Yes PVA is white glue.

I was more on about the instant grab adhesives that Evostik and No-Nonsense make. You can also get the two-part glues that dry rock hard.

[Jim R]

Hi Bob
Clean things as you're doing. Fix the part with Gator Grip Acrylic Hobby Glue. It gives wriggle time and as it's water based any excess can be cleaned up with a damp brush. Sometimes that is enough. If in doubt wick thin CA into the join. Have a look at THIS
Jim

[AlanG]

Fix the part with Gator Grip Acrylic Hobby Glue.

Best you find stock of it and buy it. The owner is stopping making it so it'll become harder to find.


Gator Glue Stopping Production | Scale Models Forums (scale-models.co.uk)

[Steve Jones]

Bobby baby! Stay cool my friend its only a bit of metal. :smiling5: :thumb2:

We have all been there and it still happens to the best of us. There are times when you are sitting there for what seems an eternity with two bits of metal glued together between your fingers and when you are brave enough to see if it has stuck the two unstuck parts fall to the bench but your fingers are welded together.

There is no answer my friend. You are doing all the right things. There are times when I will stick the part together and just leave it until the next day. Dont touch it, dont look at it - just leave it to dry.

Now you are trying to glue on your skirt brackets which have a very small area to stick and the heaviness of the PE will easily pull it off. So I'm afraid its a matter of patience and do each glue point one at a time over a period of time allowing each glue point to dry thoroughly. If you overload the glue in this situation it will take too long to dry. You need some instant drying CA or use an old pot of CA. It is infuriating and your swear box will fill up rapidly, but it will look the DB's once done.

Wait until you have finally got it all fixed in place and then knock it off during the painting process!!:smiling5::smiling5::smiling5: Dont you just luv this modelling lark:thumb2:

[Tim Marlow]

Five minute epoxy will do it, but you may need to find a way to hold the part in place while it dries.....blue tac works for this. If you do go this way, prepare several parts so you can minimise glue wastage.

[outrunner]

I tend to use Zap medium superglue as it takes a few seconds to go off giving time for any SLIGHT adjustments. Then again, sometimes it will fall off and you have to start over, joys of the hobby. :smiling5:

Andy.

[Ian M]

Have you tried cleaning the PE with IPA or other alcohol thinners.
CA is quite brittle and very small parts are easy to knock off.
I fight with the tiny bits as well. Gorilla grip is good for larger parts that are self supporting but the 'long' dry time make it difficult to use for things that need to be held in place.
Best advice ships rails are a good example; get them formed to as close as you can place them and dot each contact point with the ca.
POLYETHYLENE plastic tube can be heated and stretched to make effective and cheap nozzles for glue bottles
. Bonus ca does not stick to well to polyethylene.